[Brandon1]

Originally Posted by PappaPenney

I have a few questions from the detailing sticky submitted by Brandon.

Which compound is recommended, Optimum compound or the Optimum Hyper compound and is there really any big difference?

Also if I was to do the wash at my home what is a good rinse method, my water is hard water from the outside hose, however I have soft water in the house which could be used in a bucket. Brandon quoted this before,

"If you want, you can start at the diy carwash, but use your own stuff. Also, do the final rinse with the spot-free. After you do your "big" detail at the diy carwash, I would reccomend not going there and getting someting like Optimum No-Rinse wash (waterless wash you can do in your driveway in about 15min)".

Also what is snappy? Used for cleaning the pads but what is its real name?

Do you use one pad for each step of the detail process also?

Almost have all the items together, and ordered a PC kit today.

One last question, I live in the very hot state of AZ, it hit 110 degrees today. Is it not recommended to do any of the steps of the detailing process above certain temperatures? I know the clay for instance says to do in the shade and on a cool car. If after I wash my vehicle is moving it into the shade of the garage cool enough?

Thanks again for any responses, really wish I would have started this at least a month ago.

Peace out

I'd get the Hyper, cuts a little faster. Honestly, for a little more money, go with Wolfgang Swirl Remover and Final Glaze. Its actually Menzerna Super Intesive Polish and PO106FF, just in a smaller size, works much better IMO.

For rinsing and your first detail, just wash like normal. I have super hard water at my house, and deal with it like 60 times a week lol. BUT, you *should* get a watersoftner like the one from www.autogee.net. That, on a black truck, is a must. Only reason I suggested the DIY carwashes is for people that live in apartments and dont have access to a hose.

Snappy is a pad cleaner, and you use a pad for each step. Cut pad for defect removal, polish pad for, well, polishing, and finish pad for glazing or waxing.

On the hot, i'd keep it out of the sun and in the shade as much as possible only for the reason of water spotting and clay/polish/wax. After your watersoftner, you should (if you were so inclined) be able to wash in 30000* heat with no spotting. However, the claying and polish/wax steps should be done on a cool surface to prevent streaking or drying.

Good Luck!