Offroad Solutions Manual Hub Conversion
ORS Technical Article - MUST READ!
This modification can be done yourself if you have the press tools, otherwise the presswork can be done by anyone with the tools and knowledge and the remainder of the kit can be installed DIY with access to the necessary tools.
Expect ~500$ for a drive-in installation, 150-250$ for presswork alone.
The ORS kit is recommended over other available kits simply because everything necessary is already included in the kit. With the other kits, you'll have to provide bearings and other parts on your own, negating any up-front cost advantage.
This kit provides the ability to use 2WD in low range, and to separate the hub from the drivetrain in case of equipment failure (CV, ring & pinion, halfshaft), tho the front driveshaft will need to be removed to completely isolate the front differential in order to use the factory-configured low range, which requires the transfer case be in 4WD mode.
It does not provide any fuel mileage benefit. It does allow the truck to be driven on the street with the ADD system engaged, simply open the hubs and the transfer case and front differential can be properly, easily lubricated through use as per the owner's manual. This is even more important for vehicles equipped with an ARB RD-90 front air locker, to keep the seals lubricated on a regular basis (more often than 10 miles per month).
Offroad, the kit allows for much easier tight turning on slickrock and other high traction surfaces. The hubs can be opened while the vehicle remains in low range, avoiding component wear, drivetrain loading and difficult turning.
High angle inner and soft outer CV boots are not required with this kit, but may as well be installed concurrently since the kit includes new halfshafts and outer CV joints.
The new kit also includes a stronger inner CV joint. The new joint should not be used on trucks with uniball upper control arms or long travel kits.
Warn Lockout R&R
The lockouts do get dirty inside despite paper seals and the o-ring. inspection is simple, cleaning and service is fairly easy as well.
Remove the six socket head bolts and the locking dial.
Inspect the accordion spring attached to the locking dial, and the paper seal between the dial assembly and lockout body. If the accordion spring shows any sign of rust, R&R the entire lockout. Replace the paper seal if it is torn or cracked, usually they are good for one assembly, but they are not expensive.
Inspect the splines of the locking mechanism and the end of the rotating assembly inside the lockout. The locking mechanism should easily slide in and out of the lockout body. If any surface shows corrosion, undue wear or a dry surface, remove, clean, grease and replace as necessary.
To remove the locking core, depress slightly in to the lockout body and remove the thin wire clip circling the inside of the body. Some grease may need to be removed, and the core must be depressed, to see and access the clip. With the clip removed, the core should be easy to remove. Inspect the splines, back of the core and spring for corrosion.
To remove the lockout body and inspect the second paper seal and the o-ring, remove the six nuts, washers and lock washers on the outside of the hub. Pull the body straight out. Replace the o-ring on the back of the lockout if pinched or torn, and the paper seal between the lockout and hub.
Inspect the front and back of the rotating bushing. If corrosion has built up on the ends of the bushing, a fiber brush on a hand drill is enough to clean the surface. To completely remove the bushing, remove the circlip on the back of the lockout and the piece should fall out the front of the lockout body.
Thoroughly clean, inspect & replace as necessary, regrease thoroughly (do not pack too much grease in the lockout splines, a thin film is enough) and reassemble. Use any CV/bearing grease.
One "rebuild kit" from Warn contains both paper gaskets for each hub, two o-rings, and new fasteners.