Front Brake Pads Rubbing?

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Thread: Front Brake Pads Rubbing?

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    Unhappy Front Brake Pads Rubbing?

    For the past several days, I have noticed a noise the appears to be coming from the front driver's side wheel. It sounds like the brake pads are rubbing against the rotors even when the brakes aren't applied. I checked the master cylinder and the fluid level is just below the MAX line. Nothing has been done to the brake system since I flushed it last summer...

    Today I took off the wheel to look at the pads. It looks like I have about 4 - 5mm of pad left, but I did notice that I couldn't really turn the rotor without encountering significant resistance -- the pads were basically touching it. How much clearance should the pads have against the rotor when the brakes aren't applied? This is probably a really stupid question -- I know nothing about brakes -- but in a somewhat pressurized system like the brake system, what keeps the pads away from the rotors in the first place?

    Any suggestions about how I can fix this condition? Does this indicate too much pressure in the system? Not enough pressure? Something else entirely?

    Thanks,

    Dave
    2001 Silver Sky Metallic 4x2 SR5 V8 Access Cab TRD | JBA Titanium Ceramic Coated Headers | Ivan Stewart Aero Kit | Ivan Stewart Graphics and Plaque | ABS | Auto Dimming Temp/Compass Mirror | Toyota Chrome Tube Steps | Toyota UTR Bed Liner | Hidden Hitch receiver w/ DrawTite Wiring | Toyota VIP 3000 Security System | TRD Floor Mats | Alpine CDA-9811 HU | Sirius Sportster Satellite Radio | Polk Audio DB6500 Components (Front) | Polk Audio DB675 Coaxials (Rear) | Alpine MRP-F450 Amp. | JL Audio Stealthbox | JL Audio 250/1 Amp. | Total Chaos Steering Rack Bushings | Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Daystar Front Urethane Bushing Kit w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Optima 34R Battery | Russell Stainless Steel Brake Lines | Brembo rotors | OSRAM SilverStar Headlights | Sylvania SilverStar Fog Lights | 5 Michelin LTX M/S Tires and Extra Alloy Wheel for 5 Wheel Rotation | Wheel and Spare Tire Locks | Synthetic Fluids

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    It is normal for them to touch. The slight amount of runout present in a normal rotor is enough to open the clearance. There are no return springs as there are on drum brakes.

    They should not be TIGHT, but you will encounter fair resistance when turning the rotor with the tire removed. With the tire installed, the mass and diameter of the tire should make it pretty effortless.

    You could have a sticky piston. Go ahead and try to press the pads back to their starting position, then pump the brakes a few times, take a trip around the block, and see if it changes.
    Consider new seals or perhaps a caliper rebuild (or repalcement with the new TSB caliper) on the next brake job.
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    Could be calipers or which I've seen on a lot vehicles, bad hoses. The high pressure rubber ones separate on the inside and collapse. It allows fluid through under presure when you step on the brakes but does not let it back past and holds the pads tight.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rlockyer
    It is normal for them to touch. The slight amount of runout present in a normal rotor is enough to open the clearance. There are no return springs as there are on drum brakes.

    They should not be TIGHT, but you will encounter fair resistance when turning the rotor with the tire removed. With the tire installed, the mass and diameter of the tire should make it pretty effortless.

    You could have a sticky piston. Go ahead and try to press the pads back to their starting position, then pump the brakes a few times, take a trip around the block, and see if it changes.
    Consider new seals or perhaps a caliper rebuild (or repalcement with the new TSB caliper) on the next brake job.
    Thanks for the reply. I already have the new calipers, so I'm hoping that your suggestion about checking for a sticky piston works...

    Dave
    2001 Silver Sky Metallic 4x2 SR5 V8 Access Cab TRD | JBA Titanium Ceramic Coated Headers | Ivan Stewart Aero Kit | Ivan Stewart Graphics and Plaque | ABS | Auto Dimming Temp/Compass Mirror | Toyota Chrome Tube Steps | Toyota UTR Bed Liner | Hidden Hitch receiver w/ DrawTite Wiring | Toyota VIP 3000 Security System | TRD Floor Mats | Alpine CDA-9811 HU | Sirius Sportster Satellite Radio | Polk Audio DB6500 Components (Front) | Polk Audio DB675 Coaxials (Rear) | Alpine MRP-F450 Amp. | JL Audio Stealthbox | JL Audio 250/1 Amp. | Total Chaos Steering Rack Bushings | Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Daystar Front Urethane Bushing Kit w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Optima 34R Battery | Russell Stainless Steel Brake Lines | Brembo rotors | OSRAM SilverStar Headlights | Sylvania SilverStar Fog Lights | 5 Michelin LTX M/S Tires and Extra Alloy Wheel for 5 Wheel Rotation | Wheel and Spare Tire Locks | Synthetic Fluids

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    Quote Originally Posted by sequoiasoon
    Could be calipers or which I've seen on a lot vehicles, bad hoses. The high pressure rubber ones separate on the inside and collapse. It allows fluid through under presure when you step on the brakes but does not let it back past and holds the pads tight.
    That would blow...how is that condition detected without tearing all of the brake lines out?
    2001 Silver Sky Metallic 4x2 SR5 V8 Access Cab TRD | JBA Titanium Ceramic Coated Headers | Ivan Stewart Aero Kit | Ivan Stewart Graphics and Plaque | ABS | Auto Dimming Temp/Compass Mirror | Toyota Chrome Tube Steps | Toyota UTR Bed Liner | Hidden Hitch receiver w/ DrawTite Wiring | Toyota VIP 3000 Security System | TRD Floor Mats | Alpine CDA-9811 HU | Sirius Sportster Satellite Radio | Polk Audio DB6500 Components (Front) | Polk Audio DB675 Coaxials (Rear) | Alpine MRP-F450 Amp. | JL Audio Stealthbox | JL Audio 250/1 Amp. | Total Chaos Steering Rack Bushings | Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Daystar Front Urethane Bushing Kit w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Optima 34R Battery | Russell Stainless Steel Brake Lines | Brembo rotors | OSRAM SilverStar Headlights | Sylvania SilverStar Fog Lights | 5 Michelin LTX M/S Tires and Extra Alloy Wheel for 5 Wheel Rotation | Wheel and Spare Tire Locks | Synthetic Fluids

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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveS
    Thanks for the reply. I already have the new calipers, so I'm hoping that your suggestion about checking for a sticky piston works...

    Dave
    So far, so good... I used a pair of channel locks to work the pads away from the rotor and then pumped the pedal a few times to reseat them. I repeated this a couple of times and then went for a test drive. No noise!

    Thanks!

    Dave
    2001 Silver Sky Metallic 4x2 SR5 V8 Access Cab TRD | JBA Titanium Ceramic Coated Headers | Ivan Stewart Aero Kit | Ivan Stewart Graphics and Plaque | ABS | Auto Dimming Temp/Compass Mirror | Toyota Chrome Tube Steps | Toyota UTR Bed Liner | Hidden Hitch receiver w/ DrawTite Wiring | Toyota VIP 3000 Security System | TRD Floor Mats | Alpine CDA-9811 HU | Sirius Sportster Satellite Radio | Polk Audio DB6500 Components (Front) | Polk Audio DB675 Coaxials (Rear) | Alpine MRP-F450 Amp. | JL Audio Stealthbox | JL Audio 250/1 Amp. | Total Chaos Steering Rack Bushings | Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Daystar Front Urethane Bushing Kit w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Optima 34R Battery | Russell Stainless Steel Brake Lines | Brembo rotors | OSRAM SilverStar Headlights | Sylvania SilverStar Fog Lights | 5 Michelin LTX M/S Tires and Extra Alloy Wheel for 5 Wheel Rotation | Wheel and Spare Tire Locks | Synthetic Fluids

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    Default Dragging Brakes

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveS
    So far, so good... I used a pair of channel locks to work the pads away from the rotor and then pumped the pedal a few times to reseat them. I repeated this a couple of times and then went for a test drive. No noise!

    Thanks!

    Dave
    If your problem reappears, you may want to do a residual brake line pressure test which would tell you if your hoses were deteriorating as sequoiasoon described. All you need to do is to drive around for a few miles while giving your brake pedal light to moderate pressure when you stop. Park your truck, turn off the engine, and open the caliper bleeder of the wheel in question. If it squirts out fluid, you have the problem described by sequoiasoon. It is normal for only a few drops to come out.

    I did this test a few days after flushing my brake lines and discovered black particles in the new fluid. I had no residual pressure though. I suspect that my front brake hoses are coming apart and I'm going to replace them with stainless steel braided hoses. I posted a question about this in this (Completed Front Brake TSB) thread but have not gotten any responses.

    The o-ring seal between the piston and its cylinder is the only thing that retracts the piston after applying the brakes. If there is a problem with this seal, it could cause the symptom that you had.

    Are you going to install TSB calipers on your truck?

    Hope this helps. Good luck.
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    I'm still dealing with the rubbing noise... I took it to the dealer and they said that I was close to the end of my pad life, so I bought and installed new pads last week. No change in the noise. I haven't been able to get the rotors turned yet, but I hope to do that next weekend.

    Today, I flushed the brake system and I noticed that the fluid coming from the front bleeders was darker in color and had a few dark particles in it. I flush the brake system every year and I've never noticed this before. I'm wondering if my rubbing noise is due to the deterioration of the rubber brake hoses that sequoiasoon experienced. Should I replace the hoses with stock or just go with stainless. If stainless, has anyone gone with the stainless kit from Stop-Tech?

    Dave
    2001 Silver Sky Metallic 4x2 SR5 V8 Access Cab TRD | JBA Titanium Ceramic Coated Headers | Ivan Stewart Aero Kit | Ivan Stewart Graphics and Plaque | ABS | Auto Dimming Temp/Compass Mirror | Toyota Chrome Tube Steps | Toyota UTR Bed Liner | Hidden Hitch receiver w/ DrawTite Wiring | Toyota VIP 3000 Security System | TRD Floor Mats | Alpine CDA-9811 HU | Sirius Sportster Satellite Radio | Polk Audio DB6500 Components (Front) | Polk Audio DB675 Coaxials (Rear) | Alpine MRP-F450 Amp. | JL Audio Stealthbox | JL Audio 250/1 Amp. | Total Chaos Steering Rack Bushings | Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Daystar Front Urethane Bushing Kit w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Optima 34R Battery | Russell Stainless Steel Brake Lines | Brembo rotors | OSRAM SilverStar Headlights | Sylvania SilverStar Fog Lights | 5 Michelin LTX M/S Tires and Extra Alloy Wheel for 5 Wheel Rotation | Wheel and Spare Tire Locks | Synthetic Fluids

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    Default Re: Front Brake Pads Rubbing?

    Hey Daves I also have a noise from the front left side. But it only happens when I make a slight left turn. ( like an exit ramp ). I just replaced the caliper on the right side because when I replaced the pads, one of the pistons in the caliper was stuck. Maybe with a little luck having the right caliper replaced ---maybe the noise on the left will go away.

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    Default Re: Front Brake Pads Rubbing?

    Quote Originally Posted by JustDave
    Hey Daves I also have a noise from the front left side. But it only happens when I make a slight left turn. ( like an exit ramp ). I just replaced the caliper on the right side because when I replaced the pads, one of the pistons in the caliper was stuck. Maybe with a little luck having the right caliper replaced ---maybe the noise on the left will go away.
    With the hot weather, my noise is back...and I was wrong about it being on the left side. It's actually coming from the front right driver's side. And it only happens in the summer. I've done everything I can think of to the actual brake system short of replacing the caliper. Turned the rotors, replaced the pads, switched to stainless steel brake lines, and flushed the system a couple of times. When I took it to the dealer, they could find nothing wrong. They said that the calipers were in great shape and that there was no evidence of a piston that was sticking. I too have exercised the pistons and they all seem to move freely. The more it continues, the more I think it's a wheel bearing problem...
    2001 Silver Sky Metallic 4x2 SR5 V8 Access Cab TRD | JBA Titanium Ceramic Coated Headers | Ivan Stewart Aero Kit | Ivan Stewart Graphics and Plaque | ABS | Auto Dimming Temp/Compass Mirror | Toyota Chrome Tube Steps | Toyota UTR Bed Liner | Hidden Hitch receiver w/ DrawTite Wiring | Toyota VIP 3000 Security System | TRD Floor Mats | Alpine CDA-9811 HU | Sirius Sportster Satellite Radio | Polk Audio DB6500 Components (Front) | Polk Audio DB675 Coaxials (Rear) | Alpine MRP-F450 Amp. | JL Audio Stealthbox | JL Audio 250/1 Amp. | Total Chaos Steering Rack Bushings | Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Daystar Front Urethane Bushing Kit w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Optima 34R Battery | Russell Stainless Steel Brake Lines | Brembo rotors | OSRAM SilverStar Headlights | Sylvania SilverStar Fog Lights | 5 Michelin LTX M/S Tires and Extra Alloy Wheel for 5 Wheel Rotation | Wheel and Spare Tire Locks | Synthetic Fluids

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    Default Re: Front Brake Pads Rubbing?

    Regarding stuck pads, on 2000 Corolla the left front (that's the Driver's Side, correct!!) inside pad wore badly (other front pads 90% new). Found the cause to be the "wear indicator clip" that fits on top of the inside pad. When bought new pads (CarQuest's Blue Ceramic) seems that metal clip on the end of metal pad backplate also causes too tight a fit in the caliper seat. The metal clips do no come on replacement pads; reuse same as on vehicle. [Note: only way to get new pads to fit into caliper seat without binding is to file down the end (shorten length about 1mm) of the pad's metal plate.]

    So I left out those clips on both left and right sides. I have seen several wear indicators on different manufacturer pads but could figure how these clips work. They protrude away from the rotor and do not appear to touch anything as pads wear. This is how I found them installed, and also as shown in Haynes Manual photos.

    So what harm or danger have I caused by omitting these two wear clips from front brake pads?

    Thanks, DiyEdd

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    Default Re: Front Brake Pads Rubbing?

    How much have yall paid for a set of stainless brake lines? I found some online for 158, but that sounds like way too much.

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    Default Re: Front Brake Pads Rubbing?

    Quote Originally Posted by gquenstedt View Post
    How much have yall paid for a set of stainless brake lines? I found some online for 158, but that sounds like way too much.
    I got mine here for $69 plus shipping and the kit includes the two front lines and the rear center line.

    Dave
    2001 Silver Sky Metallic 4x2 SR5 V8 Access Cab TRD | JBA Titanium Ceramic Coated Headers | Ivan Stewart Aero Kit | Ivan Stewart Graphics and Plaque | ABS | Auto Dimming Temp/Compass Mirror | Toyota Chrome Tube Steps | Toyota UTR Bed Liner | Hidden Hitch receiver w/ DrawTite Wiring | Toyota VIP 3000 Security System | TRD Floor Mats | Alpine CDA-9811 HU | Sirius Sportster Satellite Radio | Polk Audio DB6500 Components (Front) | Polk Audio DB675 Coaxials (Rear) | Alpine MRP-F450 Amp. | JL Audio Stealthbox | JL Audio 250/1 Amp. | Total Chaos Steering Rack Bushings | Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Daystar Front Urethane Bushing Kit w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Optima 34R Battery | Russell Stainless Steel Brake Lines | Brembo rotors | OSRAM SilverStar Headlights | Sylvania SilverStar Fog Lights | 5 Michelin LTX M/S Tires and Extra Alloy Wheel for 5 Wheel Rotation | Wheel and Spare Tire Locks | Synthetic Fluids

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    Default Re: Front Brake Pads Rubbing?

    Quote Originally Posted by Rlockyer View Post
    It is normal for them to touch. The slight amount of runout present in a normal rotor is enough to open the clearance. There are no return springs as there are on drum brakes.

    They should not be TIGHT, but you will encounter fair resistance when turning the rotor with the tire removed. With the tire installed, the mass and diameter of the tire should make it pretty effortless.

    You could have a sticky piston. Go ahead and try to press the pads back to their starting position, then pump the brakes a few times, take a trip around the block, and see if it changes.
    Consider new seals or perhaps a caliper rebuild (or repalcement with the new TSB caliper) on the next brake job.


    I have a Toyota Tacoma 2001 V6 TRD. I have the same problem as DaveS my left front side break was making a noise even when my break weren't applied and thinking that my problem was the caliper because my rotor and pads are fairly new I changed it but now my break is making the noise when I apply it.

    My question is could the rubbing pad damage my rotor and I need to turn it or do I need new pads even dough the one I have is pretty good shape.

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    Default Re: Front Brake Pads Rubbing?

    This is and old post so I read back through it.
    In your case first check the pads, more then likely they are worn out. They could be down to the warning tab or worse down to the metal backing in this case the rotor is likely damaged.
    In Dave's case in which we never known if he got it fixed or it went away, his noise may have been something other then the brakes. A bent backing plate, a wheel bearing noise, or something in the drive axle if his truck is 4 wheel drive.
    Mike.
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