Do you have an updated version of this for post 2008?
holy cr@p!! ....How have I missed this for so long?!?!....
I've been getting to these same diagrams by having to go thru the search on the ToyomotorParts main site...
Thanx a bunch Tundradrenalin! rep sent..
Thanks for the link. I was looking for a parts diagram for the front axle and differential, and just as luck would have it, that diagram is missing in this parts list. Moreover, as my luck would further have it, I found some diagrams on other posts but the part numbers for the front axle or shaft side bearing are missing. I am referring to the needle bearings on the driver side which I have heard sits right behind the front cv shaft/ axle. I have searched a lot for this particular part. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If you have a procedure for replacing this bearing, that would be awesome.
My front drivers side shaft is leaking grease, and the seal is leaking oil. Also, the shaft has a lot of play where it seats in the front differential housing. I know there is a taper bearing inside the differential, but I am looking for information on the needle bearing. Thanks in advance.
I had that same bearing issue in my 99 Tacoma...IMHO, the 7.5" clamshell diff is not a great design...I had heard that Dana Spicer actually designed it, the front suspensions, and frames for the Tacos and Tundras...Possibly other Toyota models too...
The part you seek is: 41331G BEARING, NEEDLE ROLLER(FOR FRONT DIFFERENTIAL SIDE GEAR)
Here's the diagram for a 2000-2002 Tundra:
ILLUST NO. 1 OF 2 ----- (9902- )UCK4#,VCK40
And here's the link for the parts listing page:
2000 Toyota Tundra 43-01 Front Axle Housing & Differential Parts
If you need to change year/cab type, etc...You can do that at the top of the parts listing page, then click the Illustration links and then the blue "More Info" buttons for matching diagrams.
Last edited by Stone_Blue; 06-03-2014 at 05:25 AM.
Thanks stone blue. But it seems like this needle bearing is located inside the housing and is inner compared to the case bearing and washer. I am looking for the bearing I can remove without disassembling the case. I thought there is a bearing behind the shaft seal and it could be removed with a bearing puller or slide hammer just like one of the illustrations for a Tacoma front shaft bearing. The diagram shows a 41304L for the right side. Is that one of the bearings I could remove and replace without opening up the front differential? I'm trying to get all my parts lined up before starting the work so I can be done in a day and have the truck back on the road. I appreciate your time.
That 41331G is located right behind the shaft seal. And yes, it IS actually press-fit into the carrier itself. It basically sits inside the part of the carrier, where the carrier bearing seats...
Make an "Ok" sign with the tip of your index finger and the end of your thumb....Your finger/thumb is the "shaft" on the end of the carrier...Now imagine fitting a large bearing over the outside of the "O"..Thats the carrier bearing...Then imagine a smaller bearing fitting inside your finger and thumb...That would be the needle bearing...
So basically, you have the "shaft" of the carrier itself, and the carrier bearing is press fit OVER it, and the needle bearing is fit INSIDE it...I had pulled the diff in my Tacoma (same differential), and pulled the carrier to replace it with a TrueTrac limited slip, so I replaced the needle bearing with the carrier removed...This is the way your SUPPOSED to do it, per the FSM, so you WONT find an "official" procedure otherwise, but I HAVE read where people have used a slide hammer/puller, then just used a bearing installer of the correct size to hammer it back in, without pulling the diff out of the truck.
Here is a pic of my diff, showing where the carrier/needle bearings fit:
Its the same bearing setup for the Tacoma and Tundra...When I took mine all apart, the driverside bearing had slop and needed replacement...I figure its more pronounced with lifted trucks and harsher CV angles...The needle bearing is all the support there is for the CV stub shaft....My right side bearing was fine...I figure because there is an intermediate stub shaft between the needle bearing and the actual CV stub, with another bearing and tube to support things, outboard of the needle bearing...Thats why I dont like the clamshell design with ADD: Not enough support for the CV shaft going straight into the carrier on the drivers side...Especially when your CVs are spinning ALL the time with ADD...Manual hubs would be better, since the CV's dont spin all the time, meaning less wear on that needle bearing...
Last edited by Stone_Blue; 06-03-2014 at 03:11 PM.
Greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking out the time to reply. Did you take this picture and add text just to reply to me. If so, that is crazy awesome!! I hope I can be of such help to someone on this forum. If I get to the differential this weekend, I'll take a few pictures and post. Now I'm trying to find this bearing, with parts cross reference.
I agree with this clamshell design being a poor choice for the tundra. If nothing, they should have at least provided additional support to the axle. Perhaps two bearings?
I'll keep posting of the developments.
Btw, I bought this truck a month ago from a buddy of mine, and don't think it's lifted. I'll check under to confirm.
I am going to attempt to remove it and install a new bearing without opening the differential, hope it works out for me. Will probably use a depth gauge to measure the depth so I can seat it right. Is there a chance I will end up driving it farther than necessary, or is there a stop built into the carrier?
I am trying to find the RH bearing for the CV axle, the inner stub bearing. Part 41304L BEARING (FOR FRONT DIFFERNTIAL SIDE GEAR SHAFT RH) **903-63008.
Any idea what the number is for Advance Auto or Auto Zone or Napa.
Over the past weekend, I worked on the differential issue on the truck. This is what I found:
The Drivers side CV shaft had considerable play at the differential side stub. I removed the needle/roller bearing and inspected it. It did not show much play on the shaft. I bought 2 new CV shafts. The old bearing did not show any different play on the new shaft either. There is however a very small play- about 1-2 mm, not enough to justify the total play I noticed on the shaft where it sits in the differential. I am thinking I may have a play in the carrier bearing inside the differential.
I thought about replacing the needle bearings (I measured OD 39 mm, ID 33 MM, width 26 MM) any ways because I was replacing the shaft, but the dealer wants almost $65 for one bearing. So that will bring it to $130.00 for both sides. Does any body know where I can order the needle/roller bearing cheaper?
I did not have the time to research the full extent of my differential repairs this weekend. I re-installed the old needle bearing and a new CV shaft for now. Also replaced the oil seal on the differential with an SKF (from napa auto). It was about $6,m which was reasonable.
I still have play but am not planning of using 4wd anytime soon.
The truck had about 120,000 when I bought it from my buddy, i probably put another 500 miles on it. I want to get it in good shape as time and money permits.
The most urgent project I might embark upon is replacing the timing belt, idler puller, tensioner, water pump, and the crankshaft and camshaft seals.
I would greatly appreciate any input on the differential issue, including advice on where to buy those needle bearing a bit cheaper.
Yeah, you may have a really worn carrier bearing...That needle bearing and the carrier bearing and side gear take a lot more lateral stress than the passenger side...Again, why I do not like this ADD diff design...If the CV's werent ALWAYS turning, it probably wouldnt be much off an issue, except if you were trying extreme off roading....
As to the bearing, you have the measurements, which helps, but there should be a maufacturer name and part number stamped somewhere on the edge of the race...Just google that number, or go directly to NTN or Koyo's website and see if it shows up...They sometimes have cross-reference available to other brands numbers...If not, they may have a searchable online catalog that will list the measurements of all their bearings, and find one that matches...