Wife's 05 has a thunk when stopped. Sometimes it takes 30 seconds to a minute to do it after stopping at a light. Before the thunk the rpm's are higher than idle, then after the thunk the rpm's drop to idle. I don't think the tranny is shifting back into low gear until this delay. Does this sound like a solenoid issue or what?
Also, as for the driveshaft, I greased it and grease never oozed out the slip joint......it forced the shaft to get longer! So I then removed it and removed the excess grease. Should there be a relief hole (like many other shafts I have seen)? The splines are so tight that no grease could escape past them. If allowed to be over greased, when the axle travels it could potentially drive the shaft into the transfercase and crack it (just like when you install a shaft with not enough travel on a lifted truck)
Thanks,
MadStacker
I had the same thing happen on my 2003 limited 2wd. Everytime I came to a stop I could hear and feel the thunk. What I ended up doing was doing a complete transmission flush with Amsoil univeral ATF. (Took about 17 quarts to complete). This stoped the thunk in the tranny and its been about 20000 miles now. Never figured out why the tranny was thunking but it is completely gone now. Hope this helps.
I have the exact same issue. Mine is going to the dealer for some brake work and I will be asking them to diagnose this while it is there. I hope it is as simple as a flush.
John,
Let me know what your dealer finds, please.
Jerry
So here is what they told me... I took it in because my Brake light kept coming on and going off intermittently. I also told them about the "thunk" when stopped and then releasing the brake. They called me back and said the there were 3 codes stored in the computer and they all pointed to my ABS computer needing to be replaced. $1,500. They said that that was probably also the cause of the "thunk". I picked it up instead of having them do the work and I am going to get a second opinion. I just searched this forum and it looks like this may be a common problem. Great.
My 06 has did the same thing. When stopped if would feel like some rearend you. Took to dealer, turned out it was short 1 qt of transmission fluid. I could not check the level since it is a sealed transmission
My 06 has did the same thing. When stopped if would feel like some rearend you. Took to dealer, turned out it was short 1 qt of transmission fluid. I could not check the level since it is a sealed transmission
Exactly how my wife has described it as well. We look in the rearview mirror every time! Thanks for the response. I need to crawl under it and see where the fill
plug is. Weird that it has no dipstick...then again Toyota's owner's manual doesn't think anyone should do anything except drive it to the nearest dealer. I do all my own maintenance/repair. I wouldn't even let them fix the rear window (still under warranty) I trust no one!!!
Thanks again,
JM
Last edited by MadStacker; 11-22-2008 at 05:19 PM.
we had a tundra come in and it was doing that, there was no MIL, but to rule out the ABS system we ran the car in reverse, hit the brakes, the car didnt do it in R, just D.
when we first heard it it wasnt as bad as being reared, so we changed the fluid in the differential, that substainially helped with the between shift clunks.
Long story short, the torque converter was bad and locking. this also caused premature transmission wear.
The MIL and OBD/CANN systems are good, but they are sometimes dumb, it can tell you that the coolant temp sensor is bad so toyota replaces it, clears the code, after a week when the ECU has gatyhered enough readings to determine there is a problem, it will give you the same code. It is really because the thermostat is stuck, causing the coolant temp sensor to be getting readings that the computer thinks is incorrect, thus tripping that code. The computer is only as good as the tech, and usually the guys that do this kind of work at the dealership are oil monkies... they do oil changes, read codes and replace small parts... so you should get a second op indeed.
Try this (at your own risk ofcourse), if the car does it everytime you stop. go to an empty parking lot, speed up to a nice roll (20mph), then shift into N, let the car roll to a stop using only the emergency brake (a mechanical brake that doesnt use ABS or SRS integ.). if it still does it then do this:
same as before, but leave the car in D and stop the car with the e-brake. if it still does it then it is in the driveline and most liekly caused by a sticking converter or a actuator in the transmission..start with a flush and fluid change.
thats as much help as i an give you without seeing and driving the car.
Thanks for the info. I will do the tests you suggested. By the way, with no dipstick to check, what is the proceedure to check the tranny fluid level?
Thanks,
Jerry
Can anyone tell me the procedure for checking the level, since there is no dipstick? Owner's manual is written for a soccer mom, and the Haynes manual I have, claims it has a dipstick (very accurate book) I assume it should be warm, and engine off. Should the level just be up to the bottom of the fill hole, or is it something more than that. I know some Dodges back in the day, to check the rear diff, you had the jack one side up like 8" before checking the level, because the fill plug was machined in the wrong spot!
I would appreciate any help on this, as my wife is after me to get this fixed, and I'm hoping a fluid change will do it.
Jerry
Can anyone tell me the procedure for checking the level, since there is no dipstick? Owner's manual is written for a soccer mom, and the Haynes manual I have, claims it has a dipstick (very accurate book) I assume it should be warm, and engine off. Should the level just be up to the bottom of the fill hole, or is it something more than that. I know some Dodges back in the day, to check the rear diff, you had the jack one side up like 8" before checking the level, because the fill plug was machined in the wrong spot!
I would appreciate any help on this, as my wife is after me to get this fixed, and I'm hoping a fluid change will do it.
Jerry
I really haven't messed with it much lately. Still wondering how to check the ATF level. Should it just be flush with the bottom of the fill hole with a cold tranny?
Jerry
I really haven't messed with it much lately. Still wondering how to check the ATF level. Should it just be flush with the bottom of the fill hole with a cold tranny?
Jerry
I too am very interested in how to check the tranny fluid level - just like you I found a reference in my Haynes manual but not in the owner's manual, and when I went looking for the dipstick there wasn't one... that I could see.
I'll do some checking around to see what I can find out.
Transmission thunk....not driveshaft
) I assume it should be warm, and engine off. Should the level just be up to the bottom of the fill hole, or is it something more than that. I know some Dodges back in the day, to check the rear diff, you had the jack one side up like 8" before checking the level, because the fill plug was machined in the wrong spot!
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