Get under there and check them yourself. Take the wheel off and look at the back of the caliper--there is a viewing port. See how much distance is left between the rotor and the notch in the pad.
__________________
2004 Marlin Blue Pearl Sequoia SR5 2WD; 60k miles
1991 Isuzu Trooper 2.6L 5spd 4x4; 103k miles
1993 BMW 525i M50TUB25 auto; 286,500 miles
ASE Certified Brakes Technician / Automotive Electrical Specialist
Independent BMW Technician
Just did my rears yesterday...AAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH!...no more squeel!...Used Napa Premium Rotors and Napa Ceramic read pads...(approx $42 for set of 4 with shims)...took about a hour!...spent more time cleaning up, than changing the brakes and pads only would have been even quicker.
Anybody try the TRD rear brake pads. I found a set on ebay for like $150 including shipping. Are they worth it? I also EBC Greenstuff and Hawk HPS rear pads for around $70. Anybody have experience with any of the above on the rear brakes?
It's not a good idea to mix performance pad with OEM or replacements. You could upset the brake bias, ABS and the stability control system.
You best bet is the OEM pads from Toyota. A good quality aftermarket like NAPA, Wagner or Raybestos is a second choice.
Mike
__________________
“The significant problems we have cannot be solved at the same level of thinking with which we created them” (Albert Einstein) Moderator Brake Forum
I used Hawk LTS on front and rear. Got them from raceshopper.com but can't recall the price. Was about the same as local autozone if I recall. No issues.
One thing I did notice is that I think the outer pad wears faster than the inner (getting ready to replace my second set soon). I could probably just replace my outboard pad with the "old" inner pad and be good for another 10k. Look at it when you do it.
The Toyota pads created too much black dust IMO causing more cleaning that I don't have time for. The LTS also seemed to improve braking power slightly win/win for me.
I sort of agree on the NOT mixing pad material as it grabs differently. My fronts got changed to LTS prior to the rear but then I matched up on the next change.
Last edited by sequoiasoon; 02-28-2009 at 04:55 AM.
I just changed my rear pads with premium NAPA. Good Quality.. Just remember that the inside pads are different than the outer pads. Clean everything and apply grease where applicable. They work great.
I don't have mine in front of me--is there a bolt holding it on? Otherwise a BFH will get it off, if you plan on replacing them. A nice smack on the top and bottom will pop any rotor off, even some nasty rusted on ones. Have to do it all the time at work.
__________________
2004 Marlin Blue Pearl Sequoia SR5 2WD; 60k miles
1991 Isuzu Trooper 2.6L 5spd 4x4; 103k miles
1993 BMW 525i M50TUB25 auto; 286,500 miles
ASE Certified Brakes Technician / Automotive Electrical Specialist
Independent BMW Technician
I chose not to remove and turn the rotors. IMO the rear rotors are not as critical as the front ones. I did forget to remove them, just to check on the parking brake shoes. But I can make that another project. All I did was clean, grease & replace the pads. The front ones, however, I'm very strict. I've turned them three times over the course of 7 years. Next time I'll have to purchase a new set. More than likely, I'll get them from NAPA. I prefer Dealer OEM parts, but Dealer rotors are way too expensive. I think they quoted me $200 each. Premium quality NAPA should work fine. If you choose to remove the rear rotors, there are threaded holes on them. Stick a screw in them and turn it. Thats why they are there. They should come off easily.
__________________
DV
Last edited by dvillarreal; 03-16-2009 at 10:29 AM.