This morning I drained the transmission oil of my 2002 Sequoia 2WD Limited. Both the owners manual and the Haynes repair manual publish a (drain and refill) volume of 2.1quarts. Stangely enough I drained approx. 5 quarts of clean, clear red ATF out of the transmission.
I don't understand how thats possible. Can anybody give me good advice...?
I'm guessing the manuals are wrong. That pan is pretty big. I've drained and filled mine several times and generally use 4-4.5qt and I ck the level multiple times over the next month to make sure the level is correct.
What I'd like to know is what is the story on the transmission oil filter. I've been told by Toyota Dealer and a shop that specializes in Honda & Toyota that they don't sell a replacment filter, that it is just a screen and if it is that dirty/plugged I have more serious problems. The parts stores all sell a replacement filter kit.
BTW - I pour the drained oil into an empty gallon bottle of windshield washer fluid which I've pre-marked in 1/2 qt intervals. This is an easy way to measure how much I've drained to make refilling easier.
BTW - I pour the drained oil into an empty gallon bottle of windshield washer fluid which I've pre-marked in 1/2 qt intervals. This is an easy way to measure how much I've drained to make refilling easier.
Good tip, thanks.
I was told by the dealership that the filter is "flushed" under pressure, when they change fluid, that there is no removeable filter.
I was told by the dealership that the filter is "flushed" under pressure, when they change fluid, that there is no removeable filter.
The dealership is wrong. The 00-04 trucks have a replaceable filter element in the pan. I've changed many myself. It's not as critical as say a GM truck because our filters are more like screens than filters. They're not an extremely fine filtering media. The problem is Toyota uses a really nasty RTV sealant on the pan instead of a gasket, and it is a bitch to pull the pan off, clean the pan, and clean the pan gasket mating surface on the trans, even on a lift. It'd be a royal PITA to do it on the ground.
If you drop the pan and replace the filter, fill it with 4.5qts and check it. Should be above the bottom line of the cold section. A little low is okay, you don't want to overfill a transmission.
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2004 Marlin Blue Pearl Sequoia SR5 2WD; 60k miles
1991 Isuzu Trooper 2.6L 5spd 4x4; 103k miles
1993 BMW 525i M50TUB25 auto; 286,500 miles
ASE Certified Brakes Technician / Automotive Electrical Specialist
Independent BMW Technician
take it to a shop and have it flushed...thats the best thing you can do...
it cleans the filter and flushed your torque converter...usually around $100 do it every 30k...tranny will last forever...
I agree with ColdFinger, both Toyota dealerships parts specialists recommended that I just change the fluid and not the filter. One did state that it was very difficult. I have changed out trans filters before on a couple of other cars, it’s not a joyous occasion but, again not that bad? I was thinking of going with the Royal Purple brand. Anyone have better history with something else?
It's obvious someone doesn't work on cars everyday, because they never in a million years would recommend a transmission flush if they did. I cannot begin to count how many transmissions have died after performing a power flush. So, it's not the best thing to do, it's actually the worst. The GM trans in my BMW has 286k original miles on it; it has never been flushed. If it had, I doubt it would have made it to 150k. I just did a trans service on it, both pans were decent even with that mileage on it. Runs and shifts great!
Dealer parts specialists are an oxymoron. Most dealer parts guys couldn't tell you if your truck had variable valve timing even if you told him the vin and he had his parts catalog open. It's not hard, it's just tedious cleaning the pan. I find a large diameter wire wheel on a grinder will remove the rtv from the pan mating surface in no time. All it leaves you with is removing the gasket material from the transmission case.
These transmissions are not really picky fluid wise, the basic trans design has been around for 20 years and has ran on D-II just fine, picking up hundreds of thousands of miles. If it doesn't call for anything special, just run Dexron III. If it wants T-IV, give it T-IV (the real stuff).
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2004 Marlin Blue Pearl Sequoia SR5 2WD; 60k miles
1991 Isuzu Trooper 2.6L 5spd 4x4; 103k miles
1993 BMW 525i M50TUB25 auto; 286,500 miles
ASE Certified Brakes Technician / Automotive Electrical Specialist
Independent BMW Technician