I've just hit 100K on my late '02 and I've decided to go pure synth on my oil. History:Summer 2007 changed out to Bosch Irridium plugs, new air filter and fuel filter (had to go to ACE to get new hex-bolt for fuel-filter after stripping original PIA) . Early July '09 replaced Universal belt (P/L $129). Got oil change @ local J-Lube for $50 with high-mileage semi-synth oil (waste of $ for a Toy). I then added Prolong ($19.99) engine treatment to the oil and took her for an extended road-trip of 3600+ miles. Started by adding Gumout Fuel System Cleaner ($2.99 at AutoZone) (on first tank then STP Gas-Treatment (~$5 for 3-pack)~ for the entire trip and ending with another Gumout for final tank. Mileage went from 15.3 (over 6 years driving) to 15.5 mpg (ethanol stinks). I am going to switch over to full synth oil using the new Castrol Edge ($26.50/5 qts @ WalMart) . My first step is to replace the current over-priced J-Lube filter with a FRAM ToughGuard (TG3614) oil filter ($5.94) and add ~10 oz. of SEA FOAM Motor Treatment to clean out any varnish/deposits/water in the case. I am also replacing the paper air-filter with a K&N High Flow (33-2144) life-time air filter using silicone grease to assure a tight seal on the filter case. Sea Foam boasts that it cleans your engine instantly so I'm only going to run the engine for a short time before continuing with my change-over ( probably a few hundred miles ). I will then drain the current oil and replace it with the Castrol Edge, the FRAM oil filter (sludgy by now) is replaced with a K&N HP-1002 oil filter and then we'll see if any of the seals start leaking and see if my gas mileage/horsepower improve. I am sure that the switch will go seamlessly (it's a Toyota after all ! ) however I have heard that switching with the mileage I have on the truck may cause problems. I would like any one reading this for their input on my plan or if they have any dangers/hints/shortcomings to it to please respond. Thankyou for your time, RegulusD.
I would re-think the K&N air filter. It can allow more dirt through with the high-flow design. The oil can also potentially mess up your Mass Airflow Sensor. Go with the stock Toyota filter or an Amsoil Ea synthetic filter.
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05 Sequoia 4x4 Ltd. Phantom Grey Pearl, Weld 20" wheels on Toyo tires, MagnaFlow cat-back, Amsoil fluids, custom 15" overhead DVD system, Eclipse NAV system w/camera, Sirius tuner. Hybrid Audio Technologies drivers and DLS coaxials, TRU B-2110 and H-1 amps, 13" eD sub, iPod hookup. SilverStar Ultra lamps.
If you want it to last a long time, use good quality oil and filters (K&N makes a good oil filter--Carquest and Napa both use Wix, which is great quality) and change the oil every 5000 miles. Use GOOD gasoline (Shell, Chevron, Valero), not AMPM/Vons/Costco. It's worth the extra money to get the better gas. Locally, Valero does not contain Ethanol like everyone else. Use a good quality paper filter--a Sequoia won't get a noticable difference in anything with any other filter. Keep it tuned up.
Don't use engine treatments or gas additives--almost all of them are snake oil. The stuff that really cleans injectors isn't dropped into the gas tank and diluted 200 times. It's available only to professionals and is used in a 50/50 mix fed directly into the fuel rail. Sea Foam should NOT be run long term in the crankcase, it'll dilute the oil's lubricating ability and can cause a lot of buildup to be released and cause more damage than good.
Keep it simple and it'll last a lot longer. I see a lot of OLD cars every day with 350k+ miles that follow that recipe--and a lot with less miles and blown motors because they try every trick and snake oil known to man.
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2004 Marlin Blue Pearl Sequoia SR5 2WD; 60k miles
1991 Isuzu Trooper 2.6L 5spd 4x4; 103k miles
1993 BMW 525i M50TUB25 auto; 286,500 miles
ASE Certified Brakes Technician / Automotive Electrical Specialist
Independent BMW Technician
Hmm I think it depends on the K&N Air Filter as to it containing oil. I have the K&N Cold Air Intake and it does not have oil. I do agree the one with oil will mess up the sensor.
I went synthetic (Roy Pur) and I was able to notice a difference in power, I’m not talking turbo style. It took my Seq. a day or so to adapt to the new oil as my gauge read low oil pressure. Interesting point about the Sea Foam, I guess it would actually apply to most Snake oil variations.
I agree, stay away from the additives...no good! Keep up the maintenance, and you'll be in good shape. Do your homework on the oil you wan to run, and use a good filter. Seems like Amsoil, Red Line, Mobile1 Extended Performance are usually at the top of the list for multiple heat and wear characteristics. Don't forget your tranny fluid either. As far as air filters, you can get all kinds of advice. I personally run K&N, but I also us a pre-filter...and never had a problem with my mass air flow meter.
To answer your question about any problems of changing your oil from dino to synthetic after 80K or over 100K miles.
I have found out this on two of my vehicles, since I did just as you are doing. It appears that the dino oil will form sludge, no later how regimented you are on changing your oil like I did every l every 3K miles. Dino oil creates residue around oil seals over the length of time and miles. Once you change over to synthetic you will get oil leaks around the seals like at the valve seals or the crankshaft seals. Synthetic is very good oil and cleans out the seals where the gunk residue lingered, hopefully your cleaned seals will seal up if it leaks, one did and the other unfortunately did not.
Hope this helps. In the future switch over to synthetic after your break in its is much better for the engines.
I have the same vehicle, 85k. I use Motorcraft semi-syn and a Napa Gold oil filter on 10k intervals. Used oil analysis show below average wear numbers. I change plugs every 30k with $2 oem ngk's from Napa. I use Toyota oem air filters and flush tranny and coolant every 30k. I buy the cheapest gas and mileage since new has never varied regardless of how and where it's driven. I had a Lexus with K &N air on it. Oil analysis showed lots of dirt getting through. I don't believe in fuel additives. Thousands of vehicles never get maintenance and last many, many, many thousands of miles. If you don't believe me call and ask some of the owners of cars in the want ads about the type of maintenance they've done. I switched to synthetic on my Lexus at 120k after an auto-rx clean/rinse cycle. Oil pan and rear main seal leaks quit. Sold the car with 146k and still no leaks. Maybe coincidence. I'd switch to synthetic with no worries if it were mine. I may do the same only because I'm wanting to go to 15k OCI's. The 2UZ motor is very easy on oil. 5 UOA's worth of results have convinced me of that. Just my .02
Guys, what is the deal with SEA-
FOAM?? any benefits? I used to have a LandCruiser, heard various horror stories about not running right after flush them. So I never put on the Sequoia.
I can tell you that my 02 Tundra has the drop in K&N filter and the oil does not affect the MAS sensor. For those that report issues with K&N being the problem with MAS sensors may actually be applying too much oil to the filter therefore coating the sensor and throwing codes. I would definitely stay with OEM plugs and O2 sensors (Denso) they are actually more cost effective in the short and long run.
I would stay with the same oil the vehicle has had for the reasons Blueboy stated. I run Quaker State full synth in my Tundra and regular Valvoline in my wife's Sequoia. I do not change brands of oils period.
As Already stated, I agree with the additives being "snake oil". Caveat' Emptor!
Switching to Synthetic oil on 100K Sequoia
2002 Limited 4x4
Linear Mode
