Hawk LTS brake pad kit?

[czechm8]

I'm looking to put new pads on the front of my Sequoia. The stock pads are getting pretty warn @ 76K miles.
I'm looking at the Hawk LTS pads.
Does anyone know if the Hawk kits come with shims and grease to install the new pads? Or do I need to get a shim kit separately?

[JBH1989]

They should come with grease. If they don't include shims, you can reuse the ones on your original pads.

[czechm8]

Cool. Thanks.

[sequoiasoon]

I got the Hawks from Raceshopper.com a couple times now (front and back). They came with the shims. I used some copper anti-seize on all the contact points as per my friend (BMW mechanic) since that what they use. No issues all the years after doing that on many vehicles.

[JBH1989]

Originally Posted by sequoiasoon

I got the Hawks from Raceshopper.com a couple times now (front and back). They came with the shims. I used some copper anti-seize on all the contact points as per my friend (BMW mechanic) since that what they use. No issues all the years after doing that on many vehicles.

A lot of people don't put the antiseize and they'll start making noise. You use the copper Wurth stuff (CU-1000)?

[sequoiasoon]

Originally Posted by JBH1989

A lot of people don't put the antiseize and they'll start making noise. You use the copper Wurth stuff (CU-1000)?

I use the permatex one that I got from either NAPA or Advance Auto Parts. http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ubricant_b.htm. I've had no noise/squeal issues, parts come off nicely when needed. I also use it where my rims contact the hubs on the car. The first time I tried to change tires on the Sequoia they were almost welded on from contact corrosion between the different metals. This was only 7 months after getting the truck! I was sitting on the ground actually KICKING both sides of the tire to get it loose. Now a small coat at the hub and where it contacts by the studs (not on them) and they just lift off nice and easy.

[JBH1989]

That's a good use most people don't think of. I get rims sometimes where I'm using an enormous prybar against the LCA just to pop the rim off, even on newish cars.

[sequoiasoon]

Originally Posted by sequoiasoon

I got the Hawks from Raceshopper.com a couple times now (front and back). They came with the shims. I used some copper anti-seize on all the contact points as per my friend (BMW mechanic) since that what they use. No issues all the years after doing that on many vehicles.

Advance Auto parts also has up to a $30 rebate listed on the Wagner Thermo Quiet pads which are supposed to pretty good.

Czechm8 - you got 76K out of the stock pads???? I think I got just over 20k on the fronts each time and 30k on the rears. Granted my wife is NOT easy on the brakes!!! I actually need to get the rotors cut as they are warped. If they need to get done again after that the slotted SP performance will go back on since tehy are sitting in the basement. The sound bothered her but I'm not going to pay for others when I have these already. I only racked up 7k last year on the truck with a big chink of that being me taking it skiing with the kids which she doesn't go (hates snow and cold).

[czechm8]

Originally Posted by sequoiasoon

Advance Auto parts also has up to a $30 rebate listed on the Wagner Thermo Quiet pads which are supposed to pretty good.

Czechm8 - you got 76K out of the stock pads???? I think I got just over 20k on the fronts each time and 30k on the rears. Granted my wife is NOT easy on the brakes!!! I actually need to get the rotors cut as they are warped. If they need to get done again after that the slotted SP performance will go back on since tehy are sitting in the basement. The sound bothered her but I'm not going to pay for others when I have these already. I only racked up 7k last year on the truck with a big chink of that being me taking it skiing with the kids which she doesn't go (hates snow and cold).

Yup, I still have my stock pads on all four corners. The front right pads are worn a little more than the left, but I can probably get at least another 10-15K out of them. I've probably got at least 1mm yet before I get to to bottom of the groove in the front right pads.
Maybe I'm just not that hard on brakes, but I've had zero issues with braking or warped rotors. I haven't measured the front rotors yet, but if they are within specs, I'm not going to touch them unless I have a problem.

That's a really good idea with the copper anit-seize. I too had a hell of a time breaking loose one of my front rims after the first winter when switching to my summer wheels. I actually had to loosen the lug nuts, put the truck in drive and slam the brakes on to break teh wheel loose. I've used the copper anti-seize ever since and have never had another problem.

[sequoiasoon]

Watch the back brakes. I found that one pad (forget if it was inboard or outboard) wears faster AND at a slight angle (to the bottom). So the top looks ok but you are actually really close to grind.

That kind of mileage is awesome on such a heavy vehicle. If I was driving I'd probably get a lot more but the wife and short trip around town is NOT a brake friendly combo. I only cut when needed not at every pad change.

Don't forget to update sig to HAT instead of DLS.

[czechm8]

LOL
Forgot about my sig. I'll have to update that. Too many forum sigs to remember!

Originally Posted by sequoiasoon

Watch the back brakes. I found that one pad (forget if it was inboard or outboard) wears faster AND at a slight angle (to the bottom). So the top looks ok but you are actually really close to grind.

That kind of mileage is awesome on such a heavy vehicle. If I was driving I'd probably get a lot more but the wife and short trip around town is NOT a brake friendly combo. I only cut when needed not at every pad change.

Don't forget to update sig to HAT instead of DLS.