Fuel Filter replacement HOW-TO w/ pictures

[bstaneland]

Please note that this write-up contains information that may be obvious to those that regularly work on vehicles, but I want to go into detail so the first-timers can understand. Although this is an easy job, it can be dangerous if the proper precautions are not taken. So please read this first part for your own good…


****Don’t smoke, allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area. Don’t work in a garage with gas appliances (water heater or clothes dryer) nearby. Wear safety goggles and gloves. Good idea to have a fire extinguisher****

Tools you will need:

- 8mm socket w/ socket wrench or an 8mm wrench
- 14mm open end wrench
- ¾-inch open end wrench
- Drain/drip pan (something to catch the residual gasoline – about ½ cup)

I use Beck/Arnley replacement parts when possible. The Beck/Arnley fuel filter is part # 043-1038.


Step 1: Relieve the fuel system pressure.


Remove the fuel filler cap to relieve any pressure inside the fuel tank. Start the engine. Remove the fuel pump relay from the fuse/relay box located in the engine compartment on the driver side. The fuse/relay box has a diagram on the underside of the lid indicating where the fuel pump relay is, but just in case the relay circled in pink in the below image is the relay you want to remove (for V6 Tundra models, remove the Circuit Opening Relay – not circled, refer to your lid diagram). Just pull it straight up. Within a couple seconds your engine should shut down (because there is no fuel getting to the combustion chamber). Remove your key from the ignition. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal.


Step 2: Removal of the old fuel filter.


See image below. The fuel filter is held in place by a bracket located on the inside of the driver side longitudinal frame rail. The red arrow points to a flare nut (14mm). The blue arrow points to the bracket screw (8mm). The green arrow points to the quick-connect fitting.



See image below. Unscrew the flare nut with your 14mm wrench on the flare nut. Keep the fuel filter from trying to spin by holding it with your 3/4 inch wrench on the end of the filter. Once you get the flare nut loosened from the filter you should be able to finish unscrewing it all the way with your fingers. Assuming you properly relieved your fuel system pressure (Step 1) you will have a little bit of fuel start to run out – this is normal as it is the residual fuel in and around the filter.



See image below. Now unscrew the small bracket screw with your 8mm socket/wrench. In the background you can see the flare nut removed from the filter and is just sitting on the fuel line. (The image is unintentionally rotated 90-degrees because photobucket is on crack)


Refer to the green arrow in the below image. Now release the quick-connect fitting by flipping the upper part of the red piece until it clicks away. Now slide the fitting to the left and off the end of the filter. Again you will have a little bit of fuel start to run out – this is normal as it is the residual fuel in and around the other side of the filter.



See image below and you will see the old filter on top and the new filter on the bottom. Notice the differences. The red arrows point to the ends of the fuel filters that the flare nut screws into (there is a white plastic cap on the new filter that has to be removed prior to installation). The green arrows point to the ends of the filters that screw into the quick-release fitting (notice the black cap on the new filter that has to be removed prior to installation – circled in pink). Finally, notice in the yellow circle the black plastic mounting piece that helps in lining up the filter in the bracket. This piece has to be removed from the old filter and installed on the new filter (next sequence).



See image below. With the old fuel filter on the ground and your right foot holding the filter in place, gently press down on the little tab with your right hand to release the mounting piece while you pull the mounting piece away from the fuel filter with your left hand. Now slide the black plastic mounting piece onto the shiny metal tab on the new fuel filter.



See image below. Slide the new filter into the open bracket (do not attach the bracket screw yet). Rotate the fuel filter until you align the black plastic mounting piece onto the tube that is already attached to the quick-release fitting. Now slip the filter into the quick-release fitting and click it (green arrow). You should notice that the raised ridge on the fuel filter lines up with the raised hump on the bracket (pink circle). Now use your fingers to starting to screw the flare nut into the fuel filter (red arrow). Finish tightening the flare nut with the 14mm wrench on the flare nut and the ¾ inch wrench on the end of the fuel filter like before.



See image below. The bracket can be a little tough to squeeze together enough for the bracket screw to reach the nut, so a good tip is to use a pair of vise grips to clamp the two sides of the bracket together and then the bracket screw screws right in with ease. Once you’ve got the screw started into the nut, remove the vise grips and finish tightening the bracket screw till it is tight.



Now test to make sure you got the fuel filter installed properly. Reinstall the fuel pump relay (the Circuit Opening Relay for V6 Tundra models), reattach the cable to the negative battery terminal and reinstall the fuel filler cap. Now when you insert the key into the ignition for the first time, only turn to the ON position to hopefully allow the fuel pump to send new fuel through the system. After you’ve waited a few seconds go ahead and finish turning the key all the way to start the engine. It is OK if the engine takes an extra couple seconds longer to turn over the first time. With the engine running check the new fuel filter to make sure there aren’t any leaks.


Best of luck!


Ben

[JD and Beastlet]

Ben,

Excellent write-up... many thanks.

[Sleepin]

Very nice! We are getting some good DIY write ups in here....always nice to see! Thanks! Rep added for this post!

[kenreau]

Ben, excellent write up with photo log. Thanks!

Can someone chime in on the time line when these should be changed out? I recall having it done 3~5 years ago.

Thanks
Kenreau

[shelbydog25]

Great post. the DIY with pics are the best!

After getting my supplies ready, and pulling the fuel pump relay, I got underneath and wala, no fuel filter. Looked for it 4 times... discovered my 2005 Seq. filter is located in the Gas tank. Even Haynes shows it located along the frame rail, by the driver's door. So, for those with 05' get ready to drop the tank if you have to change it out.

[bstaneland]

discovered my 2005 Seq. filter is located in the Gas tank. Even Haynes shows it located along the frame rail, by the driver's door. So, for those with 05' get ready to drop the tank if you have to change it out.

That sucks. It *might* be possible to access the top of the gas tank through an access panel in the trunk area without dropping the gas tank. Maybe someone can chime in with knowledge of this possibility? If not, pulling the carpet back would show a panel if this is possible.

I had a classic Range Rover that had an access panel for doing just this.

I haven't owned my Sequoia long enough to testify for sure about this particular model, but in thinking about typical Toyota engineering it seems strange that they would relocate something to such a strange place in a subsequent year. Especially something that is designed to fail/be replaced. I'm wondering if your fuel pump was previously replaced with the wrong part number (that contains the fuel filter as part of the unit) and maybe they just replaced the old fuel filter with a straight piece of hose? Purely speculation on my part - just trying to help by thinking out loud through my keyboard...

[jburner]

Most excellent write up w/ pics and a bit of humor to boot. One question that may be obvious, but not to me. Why change the fuel filter? Is there a recommended time frame to do so? What is the benefit? How do you tell when you need to change it?

[bstaneland]

Why change the fuel filter? Is there a recommended time frame to do so? What is the benefit? How do you tell when you need to change it?

A fuel filter removes particles from the fuel before it gets to the engine. "Low-quality" (if there is such a thing in the US) fuel contaminants, rust from older metal gas tanks, dirt that gets into the fuel tank/lines, etc... would otherwise clog up the fuel injectors/carburetors and/or other critical fuel-related parts of the engine. An old clogged fuel filter will likely have a slower pass-through rate and thus potentially rob the engine of the fuel it needs, especially under hard acceleration.

There doesn't seem to be a consensus on when to change them - some say once per year while some manufacturers have longer intervals (up to 5 years, depending on mileage). I'm of the sort that figures a little preventive maintenance goes a long way - the 'ol proactive approach versus reactive. I like to do it every 20K/2 years.

Note that there are likely others on this forum that can offer a much more qualified opinion regarding your questions. I am pretty much just repeating what I have heard over the years.

[WY_]

Does anyone have any information on changing the '05 filter without dropping the fuel tank?

[spinn]

Bstaneland, what yr/model was this performed on?

[bstaneland]

Bstaneland, what yr/model was this performed on?

This was an '01. It appears that the fuel filter is different for the later years.

Hopefully this is the year you were hoping for.

[spinn]

Thx bstaneland. 2001 is what I have also.

[rl911]

This is a great write-up, thanks. After 75,000 miles and 8.5 years I decided to change this out today. I'd say on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the hardest, it's a 1, or at least it should be. I had three issues while doing this that made the job go longer than it should have.

1. Fuel kept draining until I realized I should have cracked the fuel filler cap open.
2. The flared fitting was a real bear to crack loose. I had to soak it with PB blast for a little while to get it loose. Kept worrying about breaking the line, but it was fine.
3. The quick connect fitting is a bit of a joke, I couldn't figure out how to hook it back on so I used a small hose clamp. Not sure what that QD clamp does, but can't see how it holds anything on.

The old filter that came off seemed pretty clean inside so not quite sure it needed to be replaced, but it's a cheap maintenance item so why not do it.

[Maxattack]

Yes, nice excellent job in illustrating and describing the job. Thanks