OK That wasn't so bad after all. Had I not dropped a nut and fished for it for an hour, it would have taken about 2 hours. Most of that was trying to figure out how to get everything apart.
BUT.......
I have a new problem. Now whenever any door is locked, the rear hatch latch gets tripped and it pops open. Basically, the truck cannot be locked. I can lock the four front doors, but if I do and the back hatch is closed, it will not only not lock, it will pop open. UUUUUUGH!
Anybody come across this?
Rob
UPDATE: It seems the new part pulls the lock cable farther than the old one when it is in its normal position. Consequently, the lock is nearly "popped" at all times. When the car gets locked, the mechanism that stops the latch from working moves the cable just enough to cause the lock to pop. UGH. What a PITA.
Last edited by tshirt_n_jeans; 09-11-2007 at 10:23 AM.
OK That wasn't so bad after all. Had I not dropped a nut and fished for it for an hour, it would have taken about 2 hours. Most of that was trying to figure out how to get everything apart.
BUT.......
I have a new problem. Now whenever any door is locked, the rear hatch latch gets tripped and it pops open. Basically, the truck cannot be locked. I can lock the four front doors, but if I do and the back hatch is closed, it will not only not lock, it will pop open. UUUUUUGH!
Anybody come across this?
Rob
UPDATE: It seems the new part pulls the lock cable farther than the old one when it is in its normal position. Consequently, the lock is nearly "popped" at all times. When the car gets locked, the mechanism that stops the latch from working moves the cable just enough to cause the lock to pop. UGH. What a PITA.
This happen to me too. To fix it, I just sprayed a lot of degreaser to clean it since mine was very dirty. Then I flushed it with WD40 and finished it with Silicon Spray. Now the latch closes and locks very softly. What a big difference this made!
1. DO NOT TOUCH any bolts with round rubber/foam pads under them. These are for the window regulator or the wiper bracket and don't need to come off to replace the handle. If you contort your hands enough to get them off...you'll just have to wrangle them back into place, which is very difficult given the nature of the bushings and holes and the standoffs on the screws themselves. Not Fun. The only nuts you need to remove once the access panels are off are the 2 on the black lugs of the door handle, and the 1 on the key-lock tab.
2. The key-lock is connected to a brittle plastic tab on the license plate/door handle assy. Make sure this is removed and popped out of the way before trying to remove the license plate/handle assy. Otherwise the plastic tab will break. Doesn't look like a big deal but it's annoying.
3. If you've ever wanted to buy an air-ratchet or a quick-twist ratchet, this would be the perfect job for it. Especially if you remove the rear wiper bolts.
The new latch has alittle bit different placement for the latch cable. If you bend the holder where the cable is connected to it slighty in it lock and work as it is designed.
Just want to say thanks to Heatrsway and to Gregc for the great tips on replacing the rear hatch handle. This is almost a two man job though. (easier anyways) . but the instructions really helped. Luckily I have a mechanic for a friend. I read him the instruction held the hatch etc.. and we were done in about 30 minutes..
He told me to that you guys gave some great instructions.
I would only add the the one piece I broke that was missed was before removing the trim inside where the pull handle strap is. the plastic protector should be pushed upward to come off. I just tryed to pop it off and broke the black plastic clip.. oh well.
OK That wasn't so bad after all. Had I not dropped a nut and fished for it for an hour, it would have taken about 2 hours. Most of that was trying to figure out how to get everything apart.
BUT.......
I have a new problem. Now whenever any door is locked, the rear hatch latch gets tripped and it pops open. Basically, the truck cannot be locked. I can lock the four front doors, but if I do and the back hatch is closed, it will not only not lock, it will pop open. UUUUUUGH!
Anybody come across this?
Rob
UPDATE: It seems the new part pulls the lock cable farther than the old one when it is in its normal position. Consequently, the lock is nearly "popped" at all times. When the car gets locked, the mechanism that stops the latch from working moves the cable just enough to cause the lock to pop. UGH. What a PITA.
ANOTHER UPDATE: Brought it to the dealer. The dealer part I bought was not made right. New part was installed for free and all works well again. Have to say that Toyota customer service is pretty decent. They could have charged me to reinstall the newest part, but they didn't AND they took the old one back. Star Toyota in League City, Texas rocks!
Anyone ever try rigging up an interior rear hatch Latch? It seems with all the problems with the outside latch, and interior one would be a good back up plan. Plus, in the event of an emergency, 3rd row passengers should be able to open the hatch themselves.
I have the rear latch issue right now.
My questions are:
Is this an easy DIY? If so has anyone posted directions (I searched but didn't find)?
Is 69090-08010 the only part that I need?
I haven't seen the hatch yet but my wife says that the handle is just flopping back and forth which tells me that the cable connection is probably busted.
Shop quoted me $85 parts, $185 labor. If they take that much labor am I in for a whole day of rear hatch trouble.
Thanks.
I had mine replaced on 02 sequoia- it took 2 hours and was charged $300 by the shop & they wanted more$ so I agree to a oil change for $50 more.
One month later my a/c seized and now I am looking at $3000 to replace - I bought this outfit to not have problems&*&^(**)(*_(_
-p o owner 2002 sr4 sequoia
I have come to understand (by reading the threads on this issue) that there are really two primary rear latch issues. A person can have the broken handle issue, which hasn't reared its head yet on our truck. Or a person can have a stuck/sticky latch.
I was trying to be proactive and use white lithium spray to keep the latch lubed so we wouldn't encounter the broken handle issue. But in doing so the latch eventually gummed up. Luckily I remembered the WD40 solution, which worked perfectly.
My wife called me frantic from a store parking lot when then door wouldn't close. When it did, somehow it didn't close correctly and she saw the rear lamp flicker on every bump on the way home. When I got home from work I took a screwdriver to the latch to see how the mechanics were operating. The latch was very hard to move. A few shots of WD40 cleaned the lithium gunk right up. I do not recommend white lithium unless you periodically clean it out and reapply. Moving forward I'll just use WD40.
Thanks all for the good advice.
Last edited by MDS_03_Sequoia; 06-11-2008 at 10:07 AM.
My dad replaced the handle one year ago and we did it ourselves thanks to all the comments from this forum. Now, it's not the handle that's not working. It seems fine but the rear door won't catch to stay closed. Do you just suggest spraying the locking mechanism on bottom of the hatch with WD40? Do we have to disassemble again? Thanks for any suggestions.
Tried the WD40 but without success. The movable metal part on the bottom of the hatch is rusted but it seems to move ok, it can be moved back and forth but it just won't catch to stay shut when door is closed. I'm not sure what is wrong?
Thanks for the tips. My '01 finally had the latch failure (only the second part I've had to buy for this truck in 7.5 years!). I was going to install it myself, then a guy I'm having do some paint work (no more two-tone for me) said he could do it. I printed the instructions from this thread, and he had it done in 35 minutes!
Re: Rear Latch....HELP!
Caveats
Re: Rear Latch....HELP!
Linear Mode
