Do yourself a favor, when trying to loosen the top bolt, get a 17mm box end wrench and turn to lock it against the frame. Use a big pair of channel locks or pipe wrench to rotate the upper shock tube. Hope that the bolt is so rusted on that it just breaks the stud. Make sure you use some sort of never seize when putting the new shock on and use a new top locking nut. Give yourself some time and have patience. Changing these shocks is a bit of a pain in the arsh.
Do yourself a favor, when trying to loosen the top bolt, get a 17mm box end wrench and turn to lock it against the frame. Use a big pair of channel locks or pipe wrench to rotate the upper shock tube. Hope that the bolt is so rusted on that it just breaks the stud. Make sure you use some sort of never seize when putting the new shock on and use a new top locking nut. Give yourself some time and have patience. Changing these shocks is a bit of a pain in the arsh.
And be real careful to thread properly and secure the upper mount when installing the new one. Had one strip out completely because of somewhat sloppy install.
And be real careful to thread properly and secure the upper mount when installing the new one. Had one strip out completely because of somewhat sloppy install.
Made me worry about this rear shock install. I had my 19 year old son replaced my rear shocks last few weeks. He said it was easy and no problem removing the bolts. Maybe I need to QA his work just to be sure, he installed the new shocks properly.
__________________
2006 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9 CTD SRW 4x4 13,600 miles
2005 Toyota Camry XLE 33,00 miles
2002 Toyota Sequoia 2wd Limited. 90,000 miles.
2002 Suzuki Katana 15,500 miles motorcycle
2001 Toyota Avalon XLS. 78,600 miles.
1992 Toyota Previa. 140,000 miles.
1997 Acura Integra LS 106,000 miles.
1990 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6. 110,000 miles.
so what shocks did you folks use? OEM or AM? thanks!
I used OEM shocks. The problem I have, it seems the ride is rough on the new replacement rear shocks. I might have gotten the wrong part....I have 2 wheel drive Sequoia.
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2006 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9 CTD SRW 4x4 13,600 miles
2005 Toyota Camry XLE 33,00 miles
2002 Toyota Sequoia 2wd Limited. 90,000 miles.
2002 Suzuki Katana 15,500 miles motorcycle
2001 Toyota Avalon XLS. 78,600 miles.
1992 Toyota Previa. 140,000 miles.
1997 Acura Integra LS 106,000 miles.
1990 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6. 110,000 miles.
I recently replaced the shocks for my general manager's Seq. We did the same thing as Stooge did,the studs just snapped off since they were so rusted. We used OEM shocks in front,but the rears were on backorder for several weeks so we used Monroe Reflexes. The Monroes seem to ride just fine,the shock bodies are larger than OEM so it probably has better dampening capabilities. They also came with all new hardware.
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What custom coils did you install? Was your SQ 4WD? I have a 2WD and thought about installing 4WD coils in there along with Bilstein HD.
Thanks.
I had Coil Spring Specialtists out of Kansas City build some for me. They are rated for 200Lbs of extra cargo and a 2 inch lift. Replaced the OEM ones w/ a 1.5 inch spacer.
I've got the stock coils (i have a 4wd limited w/ 3rd row) with 20k miles on them,spacers too. Make me an offer on them if you're interested.
I had Coil Spring Specialtists out of Kansas City build some for me. They are rated for 200Lbs of extra cargo and a 2 inch lift. Replaced the OEM ones w/ a 1.5 inch spacer.
I've got the stock coils (i have a 4wd limited w/ 3rd row) with 20k miles on them,spacers too. Make me an offer on them if you're interested.
Thanks, a bunch of questions though, before I'm interested...
Will a rear coil from a 2004 4WD fit a 2002 2WD?
Do you know if a 4WD coil has a greater load capacity compared to a 2WD and how much is the lift difference between the two?
The reason that I asked these questions is that my SQ sags at the rear when pretty much loaded....i have raised the front 2.5 and the rear 1.0 thus probably the reason for the sag. I need to raise the rear through coils or/and spacer.
Thanks in advance.
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2002 SEQUOIA SR5
2.0 SAW WITH TC UPPERS
LT285/75/16 BFG'S on 16X8 JAOS VICTRON EXCEL II
2.5 INCHES DOWNEY REAR COILS
JBA HEADERS WITH MAGNAFLOW MUFFLERS
TRUE FLOW AIR INTAKE KIT
Thanks for the tip. This is exactly what I did. First timer doing a shock replacement project. It took me about 4 hrs for both side! The top bolts were rusted beyond belief. I wonder who is the smart engineer who design this. I barely can reach the the top bolts because of small clearances.
I got Bilstein HD as replacements. Someone please tell me that this shocks will last a long time. My arms feel like jello now, and I think I am going to ice them again....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stooge
Do yourself a favor, when trying to loosen the top bolt, get a 17mm box end wrench and turn to lock it against the frame. Use a big pair of channel locks or pipe wrench to rotate the upper shock tube. Hope that the bolt is so rusted on that it just breaks the stud. Make sure you use some sort of never seize when putting the new shock on and use a new top locking nut. Give yourself some time and have patience. Changing these shocks is a bit of a pain in the arsh.
Awesome suggestion!! Worked like a charm with some penetrant oil applied in advance. I also want to add that once you get it loosened, you can remove the pipe wrench from the shock and just keep turning with your hand with the box wrench braced to quickly loosen the nut from the stud and completely remove the shock.
TIP Just changed my rear shocks with Monroe Senstracs in less than an hour. The key is one word GEARWRENCH. Make sure you have 17mm, 21mm, 22mm. Good idea to cover 17mm to 24mm. These are indispensible with the short turn access to the top nut.
Also, put the shocks on the bottom mount while they are still tied with the strap. Put the under frame bushings on, line up the shock and then cut the tie. You may have to convince the shock onto the bottom mount with a 3lb tweaker.
Changing Rear Sequoia Shocks
Re: Changing Rear Sequoia Shocks
TIP Just changed my rear shocks with Monroe Senstracs in less than an hour. The key is one word GEARWRENCH. Make sure you have 17mm, 21mm, 22mm. Good idea to cover 17mm to 24mm. These are indispensible with the short turn access to the top nut.
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