The octane number of a gas does not necessarily tell you anything about the speed at which it burns. There are different ways/formulations to increase octane (oxygenates and aromatics), some of these will allow it to burn faster some slower. Actually, <b>one</b> way an increase in octane rating can be made is to make the fuel "burn FASTER" (faster flame front). The fuel burns up before it has a chance to explode (in the case of detonation). Ideally combustion is a controlled burn (though extremely short, it is a progressive burn), detonation is an explosion (there is a difference, the explosion is instantaneous, with a supersonic shockwave). "Burning faster" (I put it in " " because that is a simplified version of explaining the process) does not mean it will necessarily pre-ignite easier either. A fuel can be designed to both "burn faster" after ignition and resist pre-ignition, the two are not mutually inclusive.
Octane is a measure of resistance to spontaneous combustion/explosion, it doesn't tell you anything else for sure. It doesn't tell you (again, necessarily) how fast it burns, its energy content or if your mileage/power output might go up or down (these can go both ways as well, and it can depend on the specific* application and conditions just as much as the formulation). Anything less than a couple books worth of info. on this subject is the short version. I can't believe some of the stuff well-intentioned people put up regarding this subject (not picking on anyone here, just in general).
Nobody wants to hear "it's too complicated" though. It's something most of us use and have choice between everyday. So many (who don't necessarily understand it in the first place) are willing to try to "dumb it down" for the masses. It doesn't really work without either a) getting it wrong or b) creating more questions tha answers.
To top it off, 99% of the time nobody can/will know what type of specific formulation they got in the first place.
*By "specific", I don't just mean <b>a</b> 4.7 Toyota vs. <b>a</b> 2.4 Chevy (as a whole engine family, even same year/type of car), I mean <b>yours</> vs. your <b>neighbors</b> 2003 4.7 Tundras in various states of tune, accuracy of sensors, variances in original tolerances and more. (In short: You need to test things for yourself if you're interested. Even if/when you find somthing that works better, you need to hope/assume it stays the same formulation year round and from station to station, even of the same brand. Then hope weather conditions don't dramatically affect your outcomes).
Even shorter: It's hopeless

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/sorry for lenth, it's still WAY oversimplified.
//got a sick sick dog, not getting any sleep tonight anyway. I'm bored and waiting for the Vet. to open.