Just curious, what's the advantage supposed to be with an electric verse oem?
They're really good for off-roading where a lot of heat can get generated in the radiator from high RPM's, but no additional airflow coming from the front because you aren't really going anywhere. The downside... they do a number on your battery/alternator over time.
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"You can't be afraid to reverse engineer something to see how it works." -Me
The electric fans increase hp to rear wheels and also increase cooling on hot summer days at idle. when installed they remove weight on the front of the engine. Some claim 2to 3 miles per gallon increase.
The electric fans increase hp to rear wheels and also increase cooling on hot summer days at idle. when installed they remove weight on the front of the engine. Some claim 2to 3 miles per gallon increase.
You would assume with less rotational mass on the pulleys that this would be true, but I would bet otherwise. The fan really does not have much pull on the engine. Removing the Power Steering would probably help more.
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"You can't be afraid to reverse engineer something to see how it works." -Me
Actually the existing fan with its load probably draws around 7 to 15 hp. also it is constantly cooling when the engine is trying to heat up. The electric fans only come on when it is time to cool the radiator or the air conditioning is cycling. The temp with a controller like this (dccontrol.com) will be stabil within a few degrees preventing less wear and tear on the head gaskets, fuel injection, radiator, etc. An electric fan will only draw about the equivalent of 1/2 horsepower in current. The air conditioning will function better in stop and go traffic, and noise level could decrease.
The results from an electric fan swapout haven't proven to be consistent. Some folks claim noticeable results; others don't.
The 2 most commonly-used aftermarket fans are units from Flex-A-Lite (sometimes referred to as 'FAL') and PermaCool. Both are good units, but I've noticed more people complaining of failures with the FAL's than the PermaCools. The most common failure reported on the FAL's is the flexible fan blades disintegrating or getting out of alignment. One of the two brands (I forget which ...) has been criticized for wacky behaviors / failures in their temp sensors / controllers.
As the years go on, multiple folks have ended up going back to the OEM setup.
The cheapest approach is to transplant the electric fan unit from a certain generation of Ford Taurus into a 1995.5 - 2004 Tacoma. Supposedly it fits right up with very little adaptation, and it's a low cost item to drag home from a recycling yard.
If I recall correctly, the most detailed info on the Taurus swap is to be found at YotaTech.
Actually the existing fan with its load probably draws around 7 to 15 hp. also it is constantly cooling when the engine is trying to heat up.
The existing mechanical fan fluid coupling is thermostatically controlled and designed to free wheel or to stay minimally engaged when the engine is warming up and when it is not needed such as cruising at freeway speeds in cold or moderate weather. It doesn't become fully engaged except when driving in warm to hot weather and even then it tends to cycle on and off.
Toyota has used this design on rear wheel drive Toyotas from the 1960's to the latest 2008 Tundra 5.7 V8. The fan may momentarily engage and roar when the engine is first started cold and may roar briefly when first driving off, but this has no significant impact on fuel economy.
Electric Cooling Fan
Linear Mode
