ok i replaced the thermostat and the temp gauge is working now but i have a new problem there is no hot air. now before i replaced the thermostat i had warm air not real hot but enuff and now there is just cold air. Any ideas out there.
jo-jo
all i did was put a new thermostat in and i lost hot air like the thermostat is stuck closed. So i put in the old one and same thing even tho it was stuck open and i was getting some warm air
ok i have tested both thermostats and they both seem to be working just fine. Could y waterpump be shot, because when I feel the lower rad hose its cold. my book says to check the coolant temp sending unit but i cant seem to find it even with the books help. This is really starting to piss me off...
not in backwards is it? stranger things can happen!! whats the outside air temp and what temp stat are ya using? do ya run with your radiator covered? did ya test them in a pan of water with thermometer? yall are having a warm spell it seems 22F you do not even need a heater yet!!
ok the thermostat is not in backwards, i picked it up at napa the only source i have unless i want it mailed to me, and after i tested them both they both seem to work just fine. and yes i need heat to defrost the windows so i can see lol besides the temp is suppose to drop back down to like -20 degrees F here soon. would the waterpump or radiator core have anything to do with it?
heater radiator core could be clogged up when was last time ya put antifreeze? i think these newer trucks still have heater radiator cores?
i checked you out on Google earth and you my friend are ISOLATED!! more churches than businesses? i will research it a little more, do ya use a block heater? Conicelli Parts Center
check out this website it has the system laid out and prices.
One thing it might be is air in the system. I had a civic I replaced the thermostat and filled the antifreeze and the heat worked horrible. There was a bleeder screw which you open to let the air out of the system while running and until you see straight antifreeze coming out of the bleeder. Also are you low on coolant have you checked it since running it. Hope this helps...
hey there is a valve that is cable actuated on the engine firewall that could be frozen closed or not actuating. i will try and find a picture!
pictures incoming good luck!! http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/617772-post16/
stay warm!!
Sounds like trapped air like hondapleludeg states. If coolant looks fairly clean leave it alone for now, but do take a garden hose and run through heater core both ways, and also check heater valve at same time. Then, put t-stat back in, top off coolant making sure to add a little antifreeze to replace what you lost/diluted while flushing core. Let engine run till a operating temp, making sure heater valve is open. If you leave the fan off it will reach operating temp sooner. Most instructions state to turn the heat on high because that is to make sure heater valve is open, but it will heat quicker without the fan removing the heat from the coolant, so just make sure temp control is in the hot position and the valve under the hood is allowing flow. I always like to run the truck up a set of ramps to get radiator higher than top of engine to allow air to escape. Once you get most of the air out, the heat should work fine, IF you get it all burped out. Some vehicles require the removal of heater or top rad hose to burp, but I don't think it will be needed in this truck. Watch the resivoir for a while to see if it drops any from any additional air being purged. Parking facing uphill for a few drives will help purge any remaining air quicker.
o kguy si guess it was air cuz i used it for a few mins last nite and then let it run for a while and when i checked it was working fine.
Thanks to all of you who helped.
If it is air, it might be worth your while to "bleed" the system. With the engine cold (and no pressure in the radiator!), take off the radiator cap. Top off the radiator, then start the truck and let it idle with the radiator cap off. Make sure you have the heat dial in the cab set all the way to the hot side - that'll make sure that valve you are talking about is wide open.
Keep an eye on the rig as it heats up - keep checking & re-topping the radiator, as necessary. It may take 20 to 30 minutes or more to get the truck up to full operating temperature, especially if you have a low ambient temperature when you're doing this.
When you're satisfied that the air is all burped out, cap off the radiator and fill the overflow bottle up to the "full hot" line. As the truck cools, it should pull some of the fluid in from that bottle. Take a peek at the overflow the next day, after the truck has sat cold overnight. The level should be lower, but not empty.
Good luck...
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MrBeanley
Glenville, New York
2004 Tundra Double Cab 4x4
thermastat
Linear Mode
