Re: Scangauge II Install (so easy a caveman could do it)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tundradrenalin
You really need to do some homework before you start speculating on this thing ERik. It plugs into your OBDII port. All the rest is easily found from the search button or the manufacturer website. There are a dozen threads on it, AND I've posted the manufacturer's install instructions in the Member Mods Install forum for paid subscribers to see.
Yea your right thus why i'm asking a few question's . Since dosequis driver is soo close i'll be checking his Tundra out sooner or later. I think it's best I gain opinions on seeing this first hand. The only reason why i feel this is a cool mod is monitoring key thing's like transmission temp's when towing and some other features I find very usefull . Can you point me to the members Mod install to paid subscribers since I pay into Ts too
Re: Scangauge II Install (so easy a caveman could do it)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tundrav8yamaha
Yea your right thus why i'm asking a few question's . Since dosequis driver is soo close i'll be checking his Tundra out sooner or later. I think it's best I gain opinions on seeing this first hand. The only reason why i feel this is a cool mod is monitoring key thing's like transmission temp's when towing and some other features I find very usefull . Can you point me to the members Mod install to paid subscribers since I pay into Ts too
Re: Scangauge II Install (so easy a caveman could do it)
OK OK I agree I have to have one. Why it's almost Un-American not to have one. So where does one get the best deal one it and what if any options or extras should I look for? I liked the installation about the windshield but how hard is it to get the wire down to the plug? "dosequis driver" makes it sound awful easy.
Re: Scangauge II Install (so easy a caveman could do it)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Towerboss
Mine is in the mail, UPS tracking says it'll be here in 3 days WOOT!! WOOT!!
I ordered a Scanguage II last night. Free shipping through amazon will get it here in less than 2 weeks. I've always had a bike computer, and as a percentage of the cost of my bike it was considerably more expensive than the Scanguage is as a percentage of the cost of the Tundra.
I like mods that don't require cutting holes in the roof, removing the entire dash, or pulling the engine.
__________________
Spray-On bedliner :: Century commercial cap :: Replaced ball joints (recall) :: Replaced RR fender molding (damaged) :: Hellwig anti-sway bar :: Plugged the piezo :: Gentex compass/temp. rearview mirror :: 56 LED center brake light in cap :: Scangauge II :: Back up camera ::: Someday: Mr. Fusion :: Flux Capacitor ...
"Muhammad Ali [...] had a way with words, but it helped enormously that he could also punch guys in the face." - Maher
Re: Scangauge II Install (so easy a caveman could do it)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bfm1851
I liked the installation about the windshield but how hard is it to get the wire down to the plug? "dosequis driver" makes it sound awful easy.
It takes about as long to describe as it does to do….
Simple Winshield Installation
1. Attach the SGII connector cable to your OBDII plug just in front of your right knee and behind the lower edge of the dash; it’s white.
2. Take off lower left fuse box cover for access.
3. Remove left A-pillar trim piece: Pop-off guitar-pick looking bolt covers on grab handle, remove two Torx-head screws / grab handle, then carefully pull cover away from A-pillar.
4. Use wire fish (coat hanger) to pull SGII cable through gap between the lower side of the steering column and A/C vent duct from above the accelerator pedal to the fuse box (line-of-sight opening).
5. Use wire fish to pull RJ45 / ethernet cable from fuse box area up to A-pillar opening (also line-of-sight).
6. Connect your SGII to the RJ45 plug and then position where you want it along the upper windshield just above your steering wheel with hook & loop fastener. Note: The slight tint used on the stock windshields pretty well hides the SGII from outside view.
7. Tuck the RJ45 / Ethernet cable into the front edge of the headliner.
8. Tape or zip-tie the signal wire to the existing harness to keep it from rattling or chaffing.
9. Reinstall the A-pillar cover, put the fuse access panel cover back on, and your done.
Center / Overhead Console Installation:
Extra Parts Needed:
a. RJ45 (aka Ethernet) In-Line 'female/female' connector
b. 8’ - 10' RJ45 / Ethernet cable if you’re interested in running it to where it would be closer to the rear view mirror. Note: You can use a shorter RJ45 / Ethernet cable as an extension but you’ll still need one that’s about 6’ long as the In-Line connector is fairly large and can’t be easily accommodated anywhere above the A-pillar.
1. Take off lower left fuse box cover for access.
2. Remove left A-pillar trim piece: Pop-off guitar-pick looking bolt covers on grab handle, remove two Torx-head screws / grab handle, then carefully pull cover away from A-pillar.
3. Use wire fish to pull your 8’ – 10’ RJ45 /Ethernet cable through gap between the lower side of the steering column and A/C vent duct from above the accelerator pedal to the fuse box (line-of-sight opening).
4. Use wire fish to pull RJ45 / ethernet cable from fuse box area up to A-pillar opening (also line-of-sight).
5. Remove the overhead center console: Remove 2 screws above the eye glass holder and then with a firm grip pull no more than 3" – 4” away from the headliner… there’s a wiring up there. Once loose, disconnect the wire harness feeding power to overhead lighting by pushing down on the small release tab and pulling the male and female connectors apart.
6. Remove blank panel from overhead console: Remove all 5 (maybe it's 7) self-taping torx head screws holding blank in place, remove blank, then reinstall one of the short screws to hold power sun-roof switch blanks in place.
7. Make simple V-shaped aluminum bracket with cut-out for RJ45 cable connector and attach to overhead console with double-stick tape. Attach ScanGuage II to aluminum bracket with Velcro. Note: This may take some dry-fitting to get everything lined up the way you’d like and so that the overhead console fits back up flush to the headliner.
8. Route the RJ45 / ethernet cable across the front edge of the headliner to overhead console opening, then feed about 8” through the small access hole in the headliner above the mirror, leaving about 6" of slack cable for ease of installation / removal.
9. Connect the RJ45 / Ethernet cable into your SGII, reconnect the wire harness connectors for the overhead lights, then carefully feed the wires back into the headliner so that the console will mount up flush to the headliner.
10. Connect ScanGuage II harness to OBDII port and connect RJ45 end to In-Line connector and then connect RJ45 / Ethernet cable to the other side of the In-Line Connector… you’re now on line.
11. Tuck the RJ45 / Ethernet cable into the front edge of the headliner along the top of the windshield, use electricians tape or zip ties to fasten the RJ45 / ethernet cable to the wire loom along A-pillar to keep it from rattling or chaffing and to 'tidy-up' installation.
12. Reinstall the A-pillar cover, put the fuse access panel cover back on, and your done.
Note: I pulled off the sun visor so that I could route my RJ45 / Ethernet cable across the headliner well back of the front edge as I already have signal wires toward the front for my Gentex mirror. I suspect you could also use a wire fish to pull the RJ45 / Ethernet cable across the headliner but I simply prefer to remove the sun visors to free up the headliner so nothing gets buggered-up.
__________________ Exterior Changes: 18" BBS wheels * TRD sport grille * color-keyed rear bumper, mirrors, side body moldings, front bumper applique * fully debadged * Ground Force lowering shackles * LiftLips wheel wheel liners * Avery Stoneguard clear bra * ARE Z-Series shell with limo tint & keyless lock * Weather tight rear bed * Hoppy EasyLift tailgate assist. Interior Changes/Electronics: Aftermarket leather * Front window tint * Gentex mirror * Wireless back-up camera * GPS slide-out mount * ScanGuage II overhead console mount * Concealed CB in center console * Extra DC power outlets inside center console * USA Spec iPod adapter
Re: Scangauge II Install (so easy a caveman could do it)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bfm1851
Why must I have this gauge? ... Just how accurate is this thing?
It replicates the functionality that comes with an OEM trip computer in higher-end vehicles... so, if you're at all interested in being able to look at your miles-to-empty, fuel consumption, or any one of a number of other pieces of data it's a tidy little package that allows you to do that. Frankly, if you have a full set of guages in your truck, e.g., tach, volt, temp, oil pressure, speedo some of it seems a bit redundant; however, most of the stock gauges don't give you discrete values whereas the ScanGauge does. For example, the OEM volt gauge will tell you it's where it should be, a little high or a little low where the ScanGuage will tell you it's 13.8v and will quantify just how much turning on your $4k stereo system or 16 floodlights will draw. The MPG thing was the attraction for me as it also lets you quantify certain fuel consumption details. While we can all calculate MPG each and every time we fill-up the tank, the ScanGauge -- in theory -- will let you bracket performance down to individual drives, trips, etc... though use of the Current / Reset feature, tank data, and so on.
So, do you NEED a ScanGauge? Probably not. But, it affords you a lot of interesting information that you might not be able to obtain as easily or as cost-effectively. For example, you could set about to retrofit your truck with a harness, ceiling console, and trip computer from a Tundra Limited or a Sequoia at whatever the prevailing rates are from a junk yard + a lot of time and effort... and even then neither of those offer all of the data provided by a ScanGuage.
As for accuracy, you need to be patient and follow the instructions for calibrating the device per the manual before you can get reasonably reliable data out of the device. It may take you several tanks of gas before you get it dialed in. On our recent road trip I was easily able to reconcile what I was seeing on the ScanGuage to what I was seeing when I filled-up and divided the gallons consumed over mileage. I believe the device has decided that a 4% calibration adjustment is about right for our truck. I saw MPG as high was 19.2 (70 mph) for about 400 miles and as low as 17 (80mph) for 300 miles on the highway.
__________________ Exterior Changes: 18" BBS wheels * TRD sport grille * color-keyed rear bumper, mirrors, side body moldings, front bumper applique * fully debadged * Ground Force lowering shackles * LiftLips wheel wheel liners * Avery Stoneguard clear bra * ARE Z-Series shell with limo tint & keyless lock * Weather tight rear bed * Hoppy EasyLift tailgate assist. Interior Changes/Electronics: Aftermarket leather * Front window tint * Gentex mirror * Wireless back-up camera * GPS slide-out mount * ScanGuage II overhead console mount * Concealed CB in center console * Extra DC power outlets inside center console * USA Spec iPod adapter
Re: Scangauge II Install (so easy a caveman could do it)
Quote:
Originally Posted by dosequis driver
It replicates the functionality that comes with an OEM trip computer in higher-end vehicles... so, if you're at all interested in being able to look at your miles-to-empty, fuel consumption, or any one of a number of other pieces of data it's a tidy little package that allows you to do that. Frankly, if you have a full set of guages in your truck, e.g., tach, volt, temp, oil pressure, speedo some of it seems a bit redundant; however, most of the stock gauges don't give you discrete values whereas the ScanGauge does. For example, the OEM volt gauge will tell you it's where it should be, a little high or a little low where the ScanGuage will tell you it's 13.8v and will quantify just how much turning on your $4k stereo system or 16 floodlights will draw. The MPG thing was the attraction for me as it also lets you quantify certain fuel consumption details. While we can all calculate MPG each and every time we fill-up the tank, the ScanGauge -- in theory -- will let you bracket performance down to individual drives, trips, etc... though use of the Current / Reset feature, tank data, and so on.
So, do you NEED a ScanGauge? Probably not. But, it affords you a lot of interesting information that you might not be able to obtain as easily or as cost-effectively. For example, you could set about to retrofit your truck with a harness, ceiling console, and trip computer from a Tundra Limited or a Sequoia at whatever the prevailing rates are from a junk yard + a lot of time and effort... and even then neither of those offer all of the data provided by a ScanGuage.
As for accuracy, you need to be patient and follow the instructions for calibrating the device per the manual before you can get reasonably reliable data out of the device. It may take you several tanks of gas before you get it dialed in. On our recent road trip I was easily able to reconcile what I was seeing on the ScanGuage to what I was seeing when I filled-up and divided the gallons consumed over mileage. I believe the device has decided that a 4% calibration adjustment is about right for our truck. I saw MPG as high was 19.2 (70 mph) for about 400 miles and as low as 17 (80mph) for 300 miles on the highway.
What you stated above is most correct after seeing your Tundra just now this unit really has some information not presently found in the gauge cluster. I think for me Miles Per Gallon information is most inportant esp since your unit break's things down (as you showen me). Thank's for your helpfull advice and post your Truck look's great esp with the tail damper mod..
Re: Scangauge II Install (so easy a caveman could do it)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hispeed
Well done!
Just don't fixate on it down there. That's why I mounted mine where I did.
I knew I'd rear end someone while I was obsessing over my MPG.
I followed Hispeed's fine tutorial because I liked the location he chose. I can see it without turning my head, and it doesn't interfere with any levers, switches, or gauges. I don't bump it getting in or out. It stays put and doesn't rattle. I can reach the buttons easily. One drawback is that passengers can't see it.
It took 1 hour to fabricate the bracket, but also an hour to gather materials. I used a grinder with a cutoff wheel instead of a Dremel to notch the aluminum. Many thanks, Hispeed.
Here are some quick, crappy pics. Click to zoom.
Back of bracket
Front
Installed
__________________
Spray-On bedliner :: Century commercial cap :: Replaced ball joints (recall) :: Replaced RR fender molding (damaged) :: Hellwig anti-sway bar :: Plugged the piezo :: Gentex compass/temp. rearview mirror :: 56 LED center brake light in cap :: Scangauge II :: Back up camera ::: Someday: Mr. Fusion :: Flux Capacitor ...
"Muhammad Ali [...] had a way with words, but it helped enormously that he could also punch guys in the face." - Maher