Scangauge II Install (so easy a caveman could do it) - Page 7 - Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forum

GORILLA · #91 (**permalink**) 09-21-2008, 03:40 PM

hi, here is what i noticed. but i like the fact my HP is right on. if i adjust the gas miles per gallon or instant average, to get it dead on ,to when i fill up, my HP reading is off. is i figured it's either 1 or the other.
i love to play with the #'s. and raise my HP to 550HP. freaking out my friend's.
and with the mod's and thrust of putting the pedal to the floor, & watching the speedo, climb so fast, and the rpm's maxing out at about 5500 or so. than shifting, it's so cool to watch there face's. and the chit chat there after.

i know many like to use this item for saving of gas, i use it for fun.
gorilla

trekfan101 · #92 (**permalink**) 10-11-2008, 09:58 AM

This is an install guide for the very useful Scan Gauge II which in this guide will install on the top of the steering column cover. I hope this helps at least one person out there

Installed On: 2001 Toyota Tundra SR5 4x4
The very first step is to get all the parts together that you will need. Once you have everything including some general tools start working at getting the steering column exposed.
1.Assuming you have never done this you will need to take off the lower panel below the steering wheel that has the fuse panel cover and your hood release lever attached to it. There are 4 bolts that hold it on and are very easy to get off. Once it is disconnected I just let it lay on the floor by the pedals because I didn’t want to disconnect the hood release latch.

2.After that remove the screw that us on the underside of the steering wheel column cover. It is a gold colored both that takes a Philips screwdriver.

3.After that remove the 2 screws that are behind the steering wheel. Crank the steering wheel to each side and you will eventually see the screws.

4.This now basically has nothing holding the steering column cover in place. So press both sides of the cover together by just pressing together on the lower half. They snap together so you need to break that connection, just don’t force too hard.

5.Once you have the bottom part off, that hard part comes at taking the op part off. It does not just come off like the bottom because of the shifter. To fix this you are going to need a special tool; I used a star socket because it gave me the most leverage and that is something you are going to need. The screw is a normal thread so turn it to the left to loosen it (lefty loosy, righty tighty).

6.Once you have the screw removed you will need to disconnect the wire that is going from the shifter.
7.From there you can set everything aside accept for the top plastic cover piece. You now need to mark where you are going to cut to allow the gauge to sit. I marked 1” in from the bottom and also 1” in on each side. This gave me the perfect position because I didn’t harm the plastic clip that is on the back side of this panel. And it wouldn’t interfere with anything under this panel when it would be reinstalled, like the rounded piece that is close to the steering wheel. Different years may be different so make sure you make it right for YOUR vehicle.
8.I didn’t have a Dremel which I would highly recommend for this type of job. But since I didn’t have one I had to use what I had which was a large drill and a jig saw. I don’t recommend this approach unless you are like me and that is all you have and you’re cheap. I don’t like to buy tools that I will very rarely use; especially if I can make it work without them.
9.After the rough section is cut out, trip around it with a utility knife or something to clean up the outer edges. At this point I also got some rubbing alcohol and removed the black marker spots that I had left over from the cutting.

10.Now we need to create a bottom for the gauge to sit on so that we can give it a sturdy base and a spot to place the Velcro on. I would have preferred to use some plastic for this but I don’t know much about working with it, so I used some scrap steel I had. I ended up using some spare construction straps that I had lying around. I cut them down to just over half length and then used some tin snips and made one side strait. Then after cutting a few small sections out and bending up the edges it was ready to make permanent. I must note that I spent a good 30 minutes on this to make sure that it would fit just right and STAY PUT. I used some epoxy that I had lying around from a previous project and I didn’t skimp on it either. This is the result and it is really on there. (notice the hole, that will come into play later).
11.Now would be a good time to make sure that when you put the top cover back on it does not get affected by anything. If it does you need to take it off and fix the issue. I did careful measuring at the beginning and so I knew what needed to be done.

12.If everything fits than we will keep going. At this point I routed the wire from under the dash where the connector is all the way up to the top of the steering column. I used red zip ties to keep the wire in place and I highly recommend doing the same.
13.Make sure you leave enough slack for the rest of the install. While I was doing this I realized I didn’t like the way the cable stuck way below and you could easily see it sitting in the driver’s seat. So I moved the white connector just slightly so that it would still be accessible but not visible. I then zip tied them together because the connection is not very tight; at least on mine.
14.After this I then started to think of how I could run the wire the column to the gauge and make it at least somewhat neat. That is when I realized the hold in the metal. It was dumb luck but that just barely gave me enough room to get the cable through…but it wasn’t easy. And the design of the gauge has the back corners indented so it worked out perfectly. If you didn’t have this luck, take a drill and make a hold in the metal or whatever you used. You will probably lose a bit of Velcro but unless you want to drill a hole somewhere else, this is the best way.
15.At this point I tested the connection and it worked great. So I then I reassembled the lower panel with the fuse cover and tightened it down. I then reinstalled the shifter which was a pain in the butt in every way (removal and install). Then connect the upper half of the column cover. Now is the best time to route the wire around anything you don’t want it to touch under that cover. Then connect the top and bottom half of the column cover.

16.Connect the cable to the gauge and you are done. Enjoy the great gauge and enjoy the fact that you save probably about $150 from doing this yourself.

USAFTUNDRA · #93 (**permalink**) 01-15-2009, 07:49 PM

Here's another option

http://www.customtacos.com/forum/sho...7&postcount=31

Boosted27606 · #94 (**permalink**) 01-15-2009, 10:31 PM

Not a bad idea, but...

I don't really want to drill a hole into my dash, and have the Scanguage so visible that prying eyes can be tempted.

I think the coolest place for the SCII is on top of the rear view mirror. It is hidden there, easy to operate and as you watch it, your vision ( at least the peripheral part ) is still on the road.

GORILLA · #95 (**permalink**) 01-16-2009, 06:07 AM

hi, everyone has there own idea, that's great. whatever works for you it's your ride. no ones install is stupid or dumb, we have our own unique idea's. & i'm not saying anyone said that, just thought i'd say it!

what i did was use the velco and just put it on top of the steering column. and used a hanger wire with tape to feed it though the cloumn, and down under the dash. than i just rolled up the extra wire, and zip tied it and pligged it into the OBD2 port.the wire for the scangauge is behind the scangauge so you never see it.
clean and no cutting. and when you look at you dash, you also see the 4 items you inputted.
gorilla

Jugarum · #96 (**permalink**) 01-16-2009, 05:48 PM

That's my favorite installation. I used 3M red tape to hold it in place. Not all of it is in contact with the column and Scangauge, but it's so sticky that it holds securely anyway. I might change the fastening material to 3M Dual Lock so I can easily remove the Scangauge. Here are some pictures of the setup.

RCsTundra · #97 (**permalink**) 01-18-2009, 04:50 PM

I use to have it mounted on the rear view mirror:

I got a Sequoia center console a couple of weeks ago and move it where the 4 switches use to be:

USAFTUNDRA · #98 (**permalink**) 01-18-2009, 07:12 PM

That's a smooth install.

RCsTundra · #99 (**permalink**) 01-18-2009, 07:47 PM

thanks!! I though I would give it a try and it came out looking pretty good.

I cut and sanded very slowly and I have the Scangauge in there so tight that you have to pop off the bezel (4 switch bezel) and then push the Scangauge from the back to get it out.

I was worried if I sanded too much plastic off it would be loose and the Scangauge might pop out over rough bumps but I dont see that happening.

I like the outcome, took about 15 mins to cut and sand it down to my liking and routing the wire is VERY easy, its only about a ft. away from the plug.

Brad's Dad · #**100** (**permalink**) 01-25-2009, 10:39 AM

Great install thread going here - much appreciated. I am also wondering if Scangauge has come out with the trans temp function yet (for an '06 v-8). Has anyone heard or seen anything on this? I talked to SG - oh, maybe a year and a half ago and they said they were working on the upgrades for Tundras but with no certain availability dates.

USAFTUNDRA · #**101** (**permalink**) 01-25-2009, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brad's Dad

Great install thread going here - much appreciated. I am also wondering if Scangauge has come out with the trans temp function yet (for an '06 v-8). Has anyone heard or seen anything on this? I talked to SG - oh, maybe a year and a half ago and they said they were working on the upgrades for Tundras but with no certain availability dates.

Checked a couple of months ago and still no go on trans temp. it would be nice.