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1Gen-TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2000 to 2006 Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "Doug Thorley Headers for 05-06 w/ Dyno", within the 1Gen-Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
ordered from urd.
they told me they were sent when they werent yet. they had them dropped shipped from another place becaue they just relocated or something like that.
when i got them they were powdercoated.
nice.
Did you get any special discount or just what's on their site? Should I call or just order from their site?
__________________ MODS:
2.5" SAW Coilovers, 1" AAL, Added Heated Seats, Under Drive Pulley, K&N drop filter, Electric Fans, 295/70-17 Nitto's, 1.75" Wheel Adapters, Rhino Liner, Under Coating, VSE w/Dynamat coating.
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2005 Silver Texas Edition DC SR5 w/sunroof, 20" rims, Magnaflow Catback, Doug Thorley Headers, Downey FSB Endlinks w/ES Bushings, Downey HD Off Road Skid Plate, Hellwig RSB, PP springs, Tokico Trekmasters, Bilstein 5100, ASP Underdrive Pulley, Bazooka VSE, Panasonic CQ-C8803U w/bluetooth/Sirius, Polk 6750, Polk 675, SS Ultra High-Low-Fog Beams, LED Cool White Bulbs everywhere, TRD Mesh Grille Insert
2005 Lunar Mist Camry LE, Custom Leather, TRD Strut Bar, TRD Rear Sway Bar, TRD Lowering Springs, SS Ultra Beams, K&N AF, JVC KW-XC410 w/Sirius, Polk 690
Just received my Doug Thorley Ceramic coated headers for my 06 DC 4x4. Very nice build quality! Thick mounting flange, tubes and collectors! Very solid feeling also. Ceramic finish looks great as well.
Just one question before I install...Why does everyone say to use OEM gaskets? Gaskets that come with the headers look pretty good themselves.
The general consensus seems to be that anything other than an OEM gasket has a higher probability of not maintaining a good seal and developing a leak over the long term. If you do a search you will see a number of different threads on this site. I agree that the DT gasket looks substantial, but figured why tempt fate. I bought the OEM gaskets. My DTs are being installed tomorrow (decided not to take on the task myself).
The general consensus seems to be that anything other than an OEM gasket has a higher probability of not maintaining a good seal and developing a leak over the long term. If you do a search you will see a number of different threads on this site. I agree that the DT gasket looks substantial, but figured why tempt fate. I bought the OEM gaskets. My DTs are being installed tomorrow (decided not to take on the task myself).
Sounds like OEM gaskets it is. I plan on installing this weekend if I find a sweet piece of cardboard to lounge on! Let us know how yours works out. I am interested to see how the headers work with my cat-back and high flow Y pipe. Plan on a little dyno time when I get around to it.
That is a good rule of thumb for many headers, not just DT, and it has been as long as I can remember. In general toss the gaskets that come with headers and get something better like FelPro, or in this case OEM.
I just got the truck back with the DT's installed. It was only a short ride, but I really noticed the difference in power and the exhaust note. I think that I will be very happy with the headers.
The mechanic that installed them said that they were a bit of a PITA to install. It took them 7.5 hours. He noted that the threads for the sensors needed to be rethreaded (apparently the ceramic coating gets in there and the mfr. did not clean them out). He also said that it was good that I bought the OEM manifold and doughnut gaskets as well as new bolts (rather than reusing the old ones). He was impressed with the quality of construction of the headers.
So, I am glad that I decided not to install them myself, as not having a lift, etc. would have made it more of an ordeal. Just not a lot of room to maneuver. Even though it was a bit expensive - $660. So total cost for the headers, gaskets, bolts, and labor was just shy of $1400, for those looking to budget this upgrade.
hi,
that is the going rate to install. around 600.
plus oem gaskets and headers.
i'm glad you went with the OEM gasket's, now you don't have to worry about taking it back in, and having the mech take out the motor mount's and retorquing the bolt's, it's almost like redoing the job all over again. and that i'm sure wouldn't be any from for them either. plus that isn't going to be free. ;-)
the best headers are doug thorley and JBA.
and
they both are a very tight fit, due to there using all available space for larger pipes/tube's, etc. FOR THE BEST POWER INCREASE'S.
well worth every penny, when you finish ALL your mod's,
than try to do a dyno and you will see: the stock 210 at the rear wheel's will be increased. :-)
you did notice a difference in power, you know your truck, give it time to adjust.
they had to disconnect your battery to do this job, so the ECU unit is relearning.
the ecu unit will relearn, it always does on the 05 and 06 tundra's.
give it 30 to 50 mile's.
i can suggest more power if you want. but it will cost you a few extra buck's. i can help you with the install of the unichip. it's not that hard. 45minute's to 2 hours at most.
and if you want a cold air intake, the volant is the only cai that unichip map's a map for.
good luck,
gorilla
welcome to the DT clan
i didnt notice much until a day or two went by. now i dig them.
very smooth acceleration and pickup.
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2005 Silver Texas Edition DC SR5 w/sunroof, 20" rims, Magnaflow Catback, Doug Thorley Headers, Downey FSB Endlinks w/ES Bushings, Downey HD Off Road Skid Plate, Hellwig RSB, PP springs, Tokico Trekmasters, Bilstein 5100, ASP Underdrive Pulley, Bazooka VSE, Panasonic CQ-C8803U w/bluetooth/Sirius, Polk 6750, Polk 675, SS Ultra High-Low-Fog Beams, LED Cool White Bulbs everywhere, TRD Mesh Grille Insert
2005 Lunar Mist Camry LE, Custom Leather, TRD Strut Bar, TRD Rear Sway Bar, TRD Lowering Springs, SS Ultra Beams, K&N AF, JVC KW-XC410 w/Sirius, Polk 690
Just a little follow up here...Started the install this weekend and all I can say this install is not for the avg shade tree with a small collection of tools. I spent 4 to 5 hours removing and installing the passenger side header. Some of the header/manifold nuts are just about impossible to get to. You could look at the collection of extensions, sockets, pull bars, flex joints and wrenches I had on the floor and tell I was having fun with this install. Damn...What a PITA! There is one nut, on the bottom of the manifold, just above the motor mount that is especially fun! I was constantly trying to get access under the truck, through the fender or under the hood. An extra pair of hands would be a big help if you can con someone in to spending a whole afternoon on this project. Anyway, got the passenger side installed and hope the driver's side is easier. I will finish hopefully this week. One other note, the stock manifold looks like junk compared to the DT ceramic header. Looks like it was designed by someone who had no clue about what they were doing. Three cylinders dump into one pipe while #4 has its own short pipe that joins the main pipe, at the collector, at a funky angle. Looks like flow was not a concern of the original design. Hopefully the DT headers will perform as good as they look. More later....
Good luck with the remainder of the install. When you are done, you will be happy with the results, I am sure. What you are experiencing is why I decided to bite the bullet and have a mechanic install them. It was expensive, but worth it. I have now had the headers on for almost 2 weeks and I am very happy with the results. There is a noticeable power increase with acceleration, and the exhaust note although not louder, is more aggressive. It has made a great truck even better. I would definitely do it again.
Finally finished the install! Drivers side went much faster than passenger side. It was not any easier, actually a little harder, but I had figured out what tools and which method was best. Job is worth $600 for sure. The actual header fitment is pretty easy. Plenty of room to get the header in there...Just getting to all those nuts in the right sequence is the catch. One note to anyone doing this themselves, be sure to soak all the nuts and studs with wd-40 or pb blaster several times, at least a day before you start. I had two studs/nuts seize on the drivers side manifold/exhaust connection that just added icing to the cake on this install. Anyway, initial driving impressions are that there is more low end and midrange power available. Truck does not downshift as much to climb grades. Seems stronger on top two. After the ecu adjusts to the headers I plan on getting a little dyno time also.