Has anybody tried a rust remover chemical on their trucks yet?
There are two products that I have found that both have good reviews..
The first one leaves a protective coating after you apply the rust remover Rust Control
And the second one is a spray on solution that requires a top coat after you are done... this product seems more appropriate for items like brake backing plates and the crank for the spare tire carrier... For great rust removal Safest Rust Remover
If anybody has had used either product, please post reviews!
Ouch. Got under there tonight for the first time in a while. While the pictures aren't half as bad as some of the others on here, they are disturbing just the same:
Right front. From this angle you can see the swaybar connector is rotted and the assembly is disconnected. Also, the brake line connectors are no longer attached
Some misc other shots:
__________________
Quote:
It is better to remain silent and have people wonder if you are an idiot, rather than to open your mouth and prove to everyone you are an idiot beyond all doubt. ~ Jim Rogers
I just went to Google and typed Tundra rust ( one word) and read some interesting articles regarding 2000 to 2004 rust recalls investagations by Toyota.
I just went to Google and typed Tundra rust ( one word) and read some interesting articles regarding 2000 to 2004 rust recalls investagations by Toyota.
if mine did this It would be gone I couldn't drive it with those POs issues.
Ouch. Got under there tonight for the first time in a while. While the pictures aren't half as bad as some of the others on here, they are disturbing just the same:
Right front. From this angle you can see the swaybar connector is rotted and the assembly is disconnected. Also, the brake line connectors are no longer attached
Ouch! Those pics concern me for safety if that truck was put under stress (accident). It would buckle very quickly. Damn NE salt and chemicals will destroy any car/truck if it is not protected. Toyota needs to understand the North is very different from the South, and it has nothing to do with politics!!!!
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John
The Toy: 2000 Tundra 4.7L TRD Limited 4x4 Red Pearl (23.0k Original Miles)
The mod list is long. Check some pics in my gallery for mod detail.
Ouch! Those pics concern me for safety if that truck was put under stress (accident). It would buckle very quickly. Damn NE salt and chemicals will destroy any car/truck if it is not protected. Toyota needs to understand the North is very different from the South, and it has nothing to do with politics!!!!
John, at least your baby is garaged. My new one stays in the garage as well, and probably will not be driven in the winter (buying a commuter car soon). If Toyota comes through in the near term, I am buying a WRX to commute with (lol)
__________________
Quote:
It is better to remain silent and have people wonder if you are an idiot, rather than to open your mouth and prove to everyone you are an idiot beyond all doubt. ~ Jim Rogers
Has anybody tried a rust remover chemical on their trucks yet?
There are two products that I have found that both have good reviews..
The first one leaves a protective coating after you apply the rust remover Rust Control
And the second one is a spray on solution that requires a top coat after you are done... this product seems more appropriate for items like brake backing plates and the crank for the spare tire carrier... For great rust removal Safest Rust Remover
If anybody has had used either product, please post reviews!
Thanks
I haven't tried either but as a chemist there is an easy solution to stop more rust...go to your local plumbing store and get a sacraficial zinc rod they use for water heaters....tie it up under the truck and attach it to the frame...thus the zinc rod will be oxidized/consumed rather than your frame...when it disintegrates then get onther zinc rod.....simple electrolysis principles.
__________________ Pistol Pete #1 COLTS fan!!!!
2004 Toyota Tundra Double Cab 4X4 (7844A), Phantom Grey Pearl, All weather guard package, fog lamps,keyless entry, 17" AA wheels, towing package, color-keyed overfenders, 4.1mm Limited Slip Diffy, Delux 3-in-1 JBL stereo, privacy glass, floor mats with sill protectors, bed extender
MODS- Line-X, Retrax, Onki nerf boards (part #328078), Wade vent visors (part #88401) , TracRac (rail # OL-21609), Ultimate Fly Fishing Rod transporter, Spin Caster Rod holder in bed, Recon bedlights fully adjustable w/"nightvision", HitchSafe, Weathertech floor liners (part #46030-1&2, grey), debadged, visors destickered, rear window stop disabled, dynolock/PL8500 power tailgate lock, tailgate protector mod with detachable floormat, Stebel Nautilus Compact Truck Air horn (300Hz), quick fist flashlight holder (all in photo gallery).....more custom suprises on the way!!
New members from the MidAtlantic (PA,OH,WV,VA,MD,DE,NY,NJ,DC) don't forget to check into the MidAtlantic Forum and introduce yourself!!!
I'm actually sorry I ran across this thread...I was at my local Toyota dealer Sunday to look at '06 DCs and for the heck of it looked underneath one, a 2wd. I was absolutely shocked and horrified (no exaggeration) at the amount of major rust, rot, and corrosion on the frame, A arms and just about everything!! It looked way worse than my '86 F-150 which was parked 1 1/2 miles from the beach, outside, for the better part of 15 years. WTF??!! We're talking about a two year old truck here. I have been about ready to buy one of these, but this problem really makes me think. Since I live as close to the beach as I do and can't always park inside, I hate to think what a Tundra will look like underneath in 5 more years. Any more updates on Toyota taking of this, or don't they care that their carefully guarded reputation isn't earned anymore.
Called in to the 1800 number. Lady on the phone was very nice, and was glad I had called. Took all my info, gave me a case number and said a Toyota Service Rep would call me directly.
You know, I haven't even looked at the steering column or over the spare tire yet. Wonder what that looks like.....
__________________
Quote:
It is better to remain silent and have people wonder if you are an idiot, rather than to open your mouth and prove to everyone you are an idiot beyond all doubt. ~ Jim Rogers
I haven't tried either but as a chemist there is an easy solution to stop more rust...go to your local plumbing store and get a sacraficial zinc rod they use for water heaters....tie it up under the truck and attach it to the frame...thus the zinc rod will be oxidized/consumed rather than your frame...when it disintegrates then get onther zinc rod.....simple electrolysis principles.
Hmm, sounds interesting. I remember an episode of "Dirty Jobs" where Mike Rowe had to change out zinc anodes in an ocean breakwater. Do you have to sand the paint down to bear metal where you attach the zinc rod?
I also called Toyota customer service today. I had called last December and they just took my info. Now they are having a rep call back. It's a step in the right direction though i am sure it will take a long time for them to decide to spend anther 2-3 hundred million bucks, after spending a billion $ on the Tacos. If you called in 5-6 months ago, call again. The squeaky wheel gets the grease.
Larry
Hmm, sounds interesting. I remember an episode of "Dirty Jobs" where Mike Rowe had to change out zinc anodes in an ocean breakwater. Do you have to sand the paint down to bear metal where you attach the zinc rod?
yes you need contact between the two dissimilar metals as the Zinc when in contact with the steel sets up a potential and Zinc is more readily oxidized than the steel and thus oxidation consumes the zinc first....once the zinc is gone you need to replace otherwise then the steel goes next....simple electrolysis theory.
__________________ Pistol Pete #1 COLTS fan!!!!
2004 Toyota Tundra Double Cab 4X4 (7844A), Phantom Grey Pearl, All weather guard package, fog lamps,keyless entry, 17" AA wheels, towing package, color-keyed overfenders, 4.1mm Limited Slip Diffy, Delux 3-in-1 JBL stereo, privacy glass, floor mats with sill protectors, bed extender
MODS- Line-X, Retrax, Onki nerf boards (part #328078), Wade vent visors (part #88401) , TracRac (rail # OL-21609), Ultimate Fly Fishing Rod transporter, Spin Caster Rod holder in bed, Recon bedlights fully adjustable w/"nightvision", HitchSafe, Weathertech floor liners (part #46030-1&2, grey), debadged, visors destickered, rear window stop disabled, dynolock/PL8500 power tailgate lock, tailgate protector mod with detachable floormat, Stebel Nautilus Compact Truck Air horn (300Hz), quick fist flashlight holder (all in photo gallery).....more custom suprises on the way!!
New members from the MidAtlantic (PA,OH,WV,VA,MD,DE,NY,NJ,DC) don't forget to check into the MidAtlantic Forum and introduce yourself!!!
I haven't tried either but as a chemist there is an easy solution to stop more rust...go to your local plumbing store and get a sacraficial zinc rod they use for water heaters....tie it up under the truck and attach it to the frame...thus the zinc rod will be oxidized/consumed rather than your frame...when it disintegrates then get onther zinc rod.....simple electrolysis principles.
This sounds like a good idea. Will it work for all metal that is in contact with the frame? Like, the rear differential and front suspension parts (specifically control arms). Some or those parts are separated by bolts and bushings so I am guessing those parts would not be protected. Would attaching a wire or cable from the frame to those moving parts work? Sounds a little easier than trying to paint the under body.
__________________
Rob K.
2006 DC, SR5, 4.7L, 5 speed, 4WD, LSD,
Silver Sky Metallic, Keyless Entry, Tow Package
Westin wheel to wheel step bars
Rackit (powder coated)
Leer 100 w/Windoors
Air lift Ride Control w/Quick Shot and Onboard Air
Pop & Lock
Bedrug
Slide Master bed-slide
Bilstein 5100s (middle notch)
Wheeler's AAL
Toyo 265/70/17 10 ply (back on stock wheels)
Scangauge II
Waiting to be installed:
MB Quart Speakers
Eclipse Amp
TC steering rack bushings
TC diff drop
Downey end links
Kartec CV boots
Wish List:
Spidertrax
SS exhaust system
HD front bumber (Reuenal or ARB)
Mile Marker Winch
Changing professions or purchasing a service truck so I can make this one all about fun!
Called in to the 1800 number. Lady on the phone was very nice, and was glad I had called. Took all my info, gave me a case number and said a Toyota Service Rep would call me directly.
You know, I haven't even looked at the steering column or over the spare tire yet. Wonder what that looks like.....
No word back yet.
__________________
Quote:
It is better to remain silent and have people wonder if you are an idiot, rather than to open your mouth and prove to everyone you are an idiot beyond all doubt. ~ Jim Rogers