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This is a discussion thread titled "How serious is the Check light with the symbol of an Engine?", within the 1Gen-Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.


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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2008, 11:54 AM
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Default Re: How serious is the Check light with the symbol of an Engine?

I am betting on the fuel filler neck. I just had to replace mine a couple months ago in my '03.
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Old 05-19-2008, 01:30 PM
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Default Re: How serious is the Check light with the symbol of an Engine?

My money is on the fuel cap. Had the similar code the other week but mine turned out to be a loose hose under the hood. Took three days for the light to go out after having reconnected it. Good luck.
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Old 05-19-2008, 06:32 PM
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Default Re: How serious is the Check light with the symbol of an Engine?

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Originally Posted by Ltning/QC10nomas View Post
I knew I did the right thing in the early 90's when I divorced her and left Rancho Cucamonga ( and CA )

If you disconnect the battery will it not go out immediately if fixed?

Autozone does it for free also.
Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes (I usually do 5 mins) will clear the code, but if the problem still exists, it'll probably come back on within 5 or 10 miles.

I'm putting my money on the gas cap.
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Old 05-19-2008, 07:19 PM
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Default Re: How serious is the Check light with the symbol of an Engine?

If you disconnect the battery it won't clear the code, it will just turn off the light. I believe once a code is thrown it will stay frozen until actually cleared by the clear code function of a reader. If the light goes out it will not clear the code, just shows that it is not currently a problem. If you go to smog it, the code will show up as a frozen code I believe.

We want to know what was it, money on the new cap not sealing with the filler neck.
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Old 05-20-2008, 09:51 AM
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Default Re: How serious is the Check light with the symbol of an Engine?

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Originally Posted by bertbear View Post
Here in Cali the vehicle won't pass the smog check if the light is lit, even for a tranny problem. And if you sell a vehicle you are responsible for it passing smog as part of the sale. It can be a real PITA. (And removing the bulb doesn't help, since they plug the smog check machine right into the computer port on the car, and the computer tattles on you) There was some advantages to noncomputerized vehicles.
I feel your pain Bertbear as Texas passed the same kind of law (surely copied California!) that only applies in a handful of counties, as of yet. (Fellow texans we need to stop this cold!)

The problem is the law isn't "smart" (how could it be when politicians are almost 100% mechanically/technically ignorant!) and doesn't take into account that there is no standard to stick to with respect to each manufacturer with respect to the kinds of malfunctions that will trip the light. It was assumed that the only things that would trip the light would be emissions related. We all know this isn't the case but the politicians are clueless, albeit possibly well intended. So now we all have to suffer through more red-tape/fees (always connected) that significantly burdens us much more than before when we want to sell a vehicle.

There are so many examples of "well-intended" laws that actually make things worse that volumes have been written on the subject. Did I just open a can of worms?



The nearest Toyota dealer to me now that I've moved is over 40 miles. That's nearly 20 dollars at current fuel prices to go there and back, and they want to charge you about $100 if the diagnostic code comes back with something not obviously warrantied. The dealers should be ashamed that they want to charge so much to just tell you what is wrong with their product, when it literally takes less than a minute to hook up the code reader. You just Gotta love Autozone! My light is on now, the code is pretty ambiguous but pointing to my aftermarket locking gas cap as the culprit. Does anyone know if Toyota or Stant finally made a locking cap for our trucks yet? I guess I could look...but I'm gonna go do some work, gotta pay the gasoline bill!
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Old 05-20-2008, 01:52 PM
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Default Re: How serious is the Check light with the symbol of an Engine?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gquenstedt View Post
I am betting on the fuel filler neck. I just had to replace mine a couple months ago in my '03.
ditto, just replaced mine about a month ago on my 03
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2008, 04:19 PM
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Default Re: How serious is the Check light with the symbol of an Engine?

2003 Tundras are notorious for having a small evap leak due to the fuel filler neck not being manufactured correctly, there are multiple threads on this if you do some searching. It was a TSB. I had to replace mine (126 bucks). You can run the Stant 11506 for a locking cap, it works as long as you have the new style fuel filler neck. Buying a new toyota cap might work for a while, but in the end the right thing is to replace the neck.
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Old 05-20-2008, 04:47 PM
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Default Re: How serious is the Check light with the symbol of an Engine?

I can't forget that I paid extra for Toyota's Platinum extended warranty. I only have 44,000 miles on my pickup, and they should cover a defective filler tube, as well as the broken rear vent window latch, which I'd rather have a nice metal part, but, gotta see if Toyota's extended warranty is any better than the Ford-junk extended platinum warranty was. I looked through the list and didn't see these parts specifically excluded...but I could have missed them since the print requires darn near an electron tunnelling microscope to read them.

Please, Toyota, please don't turn me away for these petty problems. I really want to love you!
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2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab 4X4 Stepside V8
Only additions: Waterproof seat covers, Westin nerf bars, Colgan sport bra

REMOVED: Formfit hood deflector. Loved the look but a clip went missing. Can't find one for sale without the $45 hardware kit!

Mods: 12V outlet relay "fix" to have power when ignition switch is off.

Gripes: Weak leaf springs that Toyota doesn't want to warranty, paper-thin paint, interference design motor, crappy rear mud guards that cost $78 each (local dealer wanted $100) and only last 25k miles. Front mudguards built differently! (better)

Still the best truck I've owned to date.
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