Hey boys and girls I finally added spacers to my wheels. The goal was to get the "bulldog" look by using the stock wheels but spreading them a bit wider.
Here are the pictures before and after. What do you think ?
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Boosting happily ...
List of mods ( growing Daily ): L.E.D.s inside , Camper Shell with inside lights, Back up sensors and Camera , Subwoofer and Amp , Scangauge II , Hellwig Rear Bar , Billet Rear windows hinges, K&N Air Intake , Heated Seats, Tailgate assist bar, Westin Bull Bar and Skid Plate, Under hood lights, 1.25" Spidertrax spacers in Front, 1.75" wheeladapter spacers in back, Ultimate window tint, Multivex Mirrors.
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2006 DC SR5
Bilstein 5100s F&R
Wheelers 1.5" AAL
285 Nittos on OEM Alloys
Flowmaster Delta 40
LUND Genesis Tri-Fold Tonneau
WADE in-Channel Visors
Lil Boom under the seat compliments of RF
Full LED conversion
Nothing too fancy, just better than stock!
Because the rear wheels are a bit closer together than the front wheels from the factory. I wanted them to be at about the same width from now on.
__________________
Boosting happily ...
List of mods ( growing Daily ): L.E.D.s inside , Camper Shell with inside lights, Back up sensors and Camera , Subwoofer and Amp , Scangauge II , Hellwig Rear Bar , Billet Rear windows hinges, K&N Air Intake , Heated Seats, Tailgate assist bar, Westin Bull Bar and Skid Plate, Under hood lights, 1.25" Spidertrax spacers in Front, 1.75" wheeladapter spacers in back, Ultimate window tint, Multivex Mirrors.
List of mods ( growing Daily ): L.E.D.s inside , Camper Shell with inside lights, Back up sensors and Camera , Subwoofer and Amp , Scangauge II , Hellwig Rear Bar , Billet Rear windows hinges, K&N Air Intake , Heated Seats, Tailgate assist bar, Westin Bull Bar and Skid Plate, Under hood lights, 1.25" Spidertrax spacers in Front, 1.75" wheeladapter spacers in back, Ultimate window tint, Multivex Mirrors.
Great pictures. This should be a reference thread for wheel spacers. Nice Before/After shots.
Also, the 1.25F and 1.50R looks to be a good proportional choice. Might I recommend something to you though? Wire brush the hubs behind the spacers, then clean them thoroughly with some brake cleaner, paint them black using hi-temp paint, then re-install the adapters/spacers and use some red loctite on the acorns. You shouldn't have to remove them for a long time.
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My Truck: 2005 Tundra, 2UZFE. 4WD. AccessCab. Spectra Blue Mica (8M6). TRD. AT. CC. CK. DZ. FE. AW. LD. OF. TO. VP.
Great pictures. This should be a reference thread for wheel spacers. Nice Before/After shots.
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ThanXX
Also, the 1.25F and 1.50R looks to be a good proportional choice. Might I recommend something to you though? Wire brush the hubs behind the spacers, then clean them thoroughly with some brake cleaner, paint them black using hi-temp paint, then re-install the adapters/spacers and use some red loctite on the acorns. You shouldn't have to remove them for a long time.
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I most certainly did all of that ! In fact, I added a thin layer of grease after the wire brushing so that the contact of the wheel against the spacer would be anti corrosive.
No need to paint the Spidertrax spacers as they are already anodized blue.
I might prime and paint the Fred G. spacers though, next time I rotate the wheels.
__________________
Boosting happily ...
List of mods ( growing Daily ): L.E.D.s inside , Camper Shell with inside lights, Back up sensors and Camera , Subwoofer and Amp , Scangauge II , Hellwig Rear Bar , Billet Rear windows hinges, K&N Air Intake , Heated Seats, Tailgate assist bar, Westin Bull Bar and Skid Plate, Under hood lights, 1.25" Spidertrax spacers in Front, 1.75" wheeladapter spacers in back, Ultimate window tint, Multivex Mirrors.
Because the rear wheels are a bit closer together than the front wheels from the factory. I wanted them to be at about the same width from now on.
ah, gotcha
__________________
2006 DC SR5
Bilstein 5100s F&R
Wheelers 1.5" AAL
285 Nittos on OEM Alloys
Flowmaster Delta 40
LUND Genesis Tri-Fold Tonneau
WADE in-Channel Visors
Lil Boom under the seat compliments of RF
Full LED conversion
Nothing too fancy, just better than stock!
I most certainly did all of that ! In fact, I added a thin layer of grease after the wire brushing so that the contact of the wheel against the spacer would be anti corrosive.
No need to paint the Spidertrax spacers as they are already anodized blue.
I might prime and paint the Fred G. spacers though, next time I rotate the wheels.
Let me get this straight...
You've got a pair of 1.25" Spidertrax spacers up front - and a pair of 1.50" Fred G. spacers out back - Right? If I'm right on that - "why" didn't you use Spidertrax or the Fred G's on both the front and rear?
__________________ 2004 SR5 Double Cab 4x4 w/TRD Pkg. Mods to Date:
16" 5 Spoke Brawn Enkei Wheels, Keyless Entry, Line-X Bed Liner, Challenger Running Boards, Husky Floor Liners, Bug Flector II (painted to match), Colegan Bra, Borla Dual (Side-Exit) Exhaust System, 2" Wheeler's Coil Lift, TRD Add-A-Leafs Mods to Come:
265/75/16 BFG A/T's, Possible Mods:
Seat Covers, 3M Clear Bra (hopefully... just cost so friggin' much!)
1. SPIDERTRAX are a bit cheaper but only come in 1.25" thickness.
2. The Original distance between the front wheels (track width) is about 0.75" wider than the distance between the rear wheels.
3. I wanted the Front width to be the same than the Rear width, hence using a thicker spacer for the back wheels.
Since Fred G. can make spacers any thickness you desire, I ended up with a pair of Spidertrax spacers in front and a pair of Fred G. spacers in the back.
__________________
Boosting happily ...
List of mods ( growing Daily ): L.E.D.s inside , Camper Shell with inside lights, Back up sensors and Camera , Subwoofer and Amp , Scangauge II , Hellwig Rear Bar , Billet Rear windows hinges, K&N Air Intake , Heated Seats, Tailgate assist bar, Westin Bull Bar and Skid Plate, Under hood lights, 1.25" Spidertrax spacers in Front, 1.75" wheeladapter spacers in back, Ultimate window tint, Multivex Mirrors.
looks good and i always thought about doing this but i always been told that spacers were bad to do??
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As a wheel is fastened to the hub using the studs and the lug nuts, those nuts only hold the wheel in the X direction. ( Remember Geometry ? ).
The wheel is kept in place in the Y and Z direction by the HUB itself. ( The hub lip matches the inside of the wheel).
The reason you heard that spacers were bad is because there are cheap spacers out there that are " Lugcentric". It means the spacer just sit there between the hub and the wheel and you use the original studs to fasten the wheel. That is dangerous due to the fact that it puts tremendous stresses onto the studs, and if one or more fails, you will lose a wheel,
A better design is what is called "HUBCENTRIC" spacers. Those have a lip that matches the one on the hub, staying centered and the spacer also has a lip for the wheel to sit on. Furthermore, those spacers fasten to your original studs AND have their own studs as well, onto which you use lug nuts to attach your wheel.
They represent an extension to the original hub and are safe to use.
See one of my picture in my original post. It shows clearly the design details of said spacer.
__________________
Boosting happily ...
List of mods ( growing Daily ): L.E.D.s inside , Camper Shell with inside lights, Back up sensors and Camera , Subwoofer and Amp , Scangauge II , Hellwig Rear Bar , Billet Rear windows hinges, K&N Air Intake , Heated Seats, Tailgate assist bar, Westin Bull Bar and Skid Plate, Under hood lights, 1.25" Spidertrax spacers in Front, 1.75" wheeladapter spacers in back, Ultimate window tint, Multivex Mirrors.
Spacers on 4 wheels
,tint, Tonneaumasters tonneau cover, fog light mod, silverstars, SAW's or Toytec coilovers next, maybe uniballs too $$$$
2006 Toyota Tundra SR5
Linear Mode
