I'm always following these fan threads, looking to see what you have done. Someday, maybe.... I'm whipped and still hurting from the last chewing she gave me. lol She doesn't even like for me to bring up that subject. I'm just kidding, she supports me with most of my other choices.
Towing for an hour in stop & go. If it didn't overheat then, it isn't going to. I'm glad your setup was so succesful. I was told by someone that the electric fan wouldn't be able to keep up if towing. I didn't have trouble with that and it seems you don't either.
I'll be waiting for how it performs later in the summer and see if it's still working for you.
BJ
__________________
2003 Tundra 4.7L V8 Access Cab Limited 4WD
w/ all factory packages,Black Onyx 202-rebadged. was stock 31K on 5/9/05, now 56K
*Extang Full-Tilt Tonneau * Bedrug*Topline Tailgate Step *Mr. Gille Upper & Lower Billet Grille *WAAG Bumper Guards, front & rear *HT Side Step Nerf Bars *AVS Hood Protector *WeatherTech Vent Shades *JDM Black Taillights *TurnSmart Solar-power Mirror Turn-Signals *Altec 48" Line-of-Fire LED Light Kit *Altec 53" Screamer Amber Side Marker LED *PIAA Backup/Work Lights * 35 % Tinting *BullyLED Third Brake/Cargo Light *
Interior:
*Gentex Auto Dimming Compass/Temp Rear View *Garmin's Nuvi 660 GPS * Scan Guage II *Passport SR7 Radar/laser shifter *
Wheels/Tires:
*Moto Metal M0951 Gloss Black 17 in. Alloys *SpiderTrax 1.25" Wheel Spacers * Goodyear Fortera TripleTred radials P275/60R17 *
Suspension:
*Bilstein HD Shocks, F&R *Hellwig Rear Sway Bar & Helper Springs *TCS Poly Steering Rack Bushings *Wheeler's Front Sway Bar Bushings *Timbren SES Kit, Front & Rear *
Brakes:
*TRD Big Brake Kit (front) *
BAD BONEZ BJ
Last edited by BAD BONEZ BJ; 06-26-2008 at 01:20 AM.
After the problems of yours staying on and almost destroying your truck...I decided to use two VSCs. I really like it as it's extremely quiet and almost seems like no drag on the electrical system at all. My fans work independently of each other, so if one fails hopefully the other doesn't.
My truck is quieter than the four bangers out there with fans screaming!
__________________ MODS:
2.5" SAW Coilovers, 1" AAL, Added Heated Seats, Under Drive Pulley, K&N drop filter, Electric Fans, 295/70-17 Nitto's, 1.75" Wheel Adapters, Rhino Liner, Under Coating, VSE w/Dynamat coating.
Just did this with two 14" Imperial fans and a Flex-A-Lite VSC running both fans. I'm in Orlando and it's hot here in July. Too soon to comment on MPG and I'm more concerned about the fans keeping the truck cool. Scangauge shows between 190 and 193 with or without A/C. I have a feeling the temp will be a few degrees higher than with the stock fan. We'll see what happens.
Thanks to the OP for the idea. I used a solid piece of 16 gauge sheet metal with cutouts for the 2 fans. Fans are staggered with the top fan on the driver's side and the passenger side fan mounted lower. I mounted the VSC on the shroud.
The install went well but I'm not sure two 14" fans is enough air. It's roughly 2100 cfm across the radiator by the specs on the box, but it's only 23 amps or so for both fans. I actually bought a Mark VII fan but went with the other fans because I didn't think the FAL VSC would be able to handle the load.
After the problems of yours staying on and almost destroying your truck...I decided to use two VSCs. I really like it as it's extremely quiet and almost seems like no drag on the electrical system at all. My fans work independently of each other, so if one fails hopefully the other doesn't.
My truck is quieter than the four bangers out there with fans screaming!
Now that you've given me the idea, I'd put two VSCs on the next kit. I took a look at the link on this thread, a Flex-a-Lite I think, and I liked what I read about it. Should be failsafe with two controllers.
Dakota Digital had a fan that I was really impressed with, and it was in the $350 price range, but I can't find it on their web site now. I'd still have to convience the wife, and I know that'd be a hard sell.
BJ
__________________
2003 Tundra 4.7L V8 Access Cab Limited 4WD
w/ all factory packages,Black Onyx 202-rebadged. was stock 31K on 5/9/05, now 56K
*Extang Full-Tilt Tonneau * Bedrug*Topline Tailgate Step *Mr. Gille Upper & Lower Billet Grille *WAAG Bumper Guards, front & rear *HT Side Step Nerf Bars *AVS Hood Protector *WeatherTech Vent Shades *JDM Black Taillights *TurnSmart Solar-power Mirror Turn-Signals *Altec 48" Line-of-Fire LED Light Kit *Altec 53" Screamer Amber Side Marker LED *PIAA Backup/Work Lights * 35 % Tinting *BullyLED Third Brake/Cargo Light *
Interior:
*Gentex Auto Dimming Compass/Temp Rear View *Garmin's Nuvi 660 GPS * Scan Guage II *Passport SR7 Radar/laser shifter *
Wheels/Tires:
*Moto Metal M0951 Gloss Black 17 in. Alloys *SpiderTrax 1.25" Wheel Spacers * Goodyear Fortera TripleTred radials P275/60R17 *
Suspension:
*Bilstein HD Shocks, F&R *Hellwig Rear Sway Bar & Helper Springs *TCS Poly Steering Rack Bushings *Wheeler's Front Sway Bar Bushings *Timbren SES Kit, Front & Rear *
Just did this with two 14" Imperial fans and a Flex-A-Lite VSC running both fans. I'm in Orlando and it's hot here in July. Too soon to comment on MPG and I'm more concerned about the fans keeping the truck cool. Scangauge shows between 190 and 193 with or without A/C. I have a feeling the temp will be a few degrees higher than with the stock fan. We'll see what happens.
Thanks to the OP for the idea. I used a solid piece of 16 gauge sheet metal with cutouts for the 2 fans. Fans are staggered with the top fan on the driver's side and the passenger side fan mounted lower. I mounted the VSC on the shroud.
The install went well but I'm not sure two 14" fans is enough air. It's roughly 2100 cfm across the radiator by the specs on the box, but it's only 23 amps or so for both fans. I actually bought a Mark VII fan but went with the other fans because I didn't think the FAL VSC would be able to handle the load.
Is that 2100cfm per fan or combined?
Mine are 1505cfm 9.2 amps each and 3010cfm 18.4 amps combined. I choose them because of their high ratings and low consumption. Anyway, with the dual VSCs usually one fan comes on and cools my truck which minimizes noise and draw on the alternator. Mine still cools like a champ and even better when I use the A/C because it turns both fans on.
Still no regrets even though I bought two VSCs which I believe one would do the trick. They’ve worked flawless since install.
__________________ MODS:
2.5" SAW Coilovers, 1" AAL, Added Heated Seats, Under Drive Pulley, K&N drop filter, Electric Fans, 295/70-17 Nitto's, 1.75" Wheel Adapters, Rhino Liner, Under Coating, VSE w/Dynamat coating.
Don't forget, when you do electric fan mod, you have to replace thermostat to 81*C minimum, otherwise you will have issues.
SC applications, we have 71*C thermostat so that is why i feel safe for this mod.
I will do it very soon.
__________________
2006 Toyota Sequoia Limited 4x4 w/ lxr package, 7008 navi, rear entartaiment system, 20" x-sp enkei.
2001 Toyota Tundra SR5 4x4 - TRD 9+Psi Supercharged, JBA Ceramic Headers, Walboro 255LPH Fuel Pump, 1UZ Rods, 20" x-sp enkei wheels, 7009 navi w/custom JBL wire harness + OEM XM/Sirus radio, drive by wire, and many other mods.
Don't forget, when you do electric fan mod, you have to replace thermostat to 81*C minimum, otherwise you will have issues.
SC applications, we have 71*C thermostat so that is why i feel safe for this mod.
I will do it very soon.
What do you mean? I didn't change my thermostat and haven't had any isues that I know of. What issues could a person have if they don't change their thermostat?
__________________ MODS:
2.5" SAW Coilovers, 1" AAL, Added Heated Seats, Under Drive Pulley, K&N drop filter, Electric Fans, 295/70-17 Nitto's, 1.75" Wheel Adapters, Rhino Liner, Under Coating, VSE w/Dynamat coating.
Hey shall, thanks for the info!
Did your setup look kinda like this? Those are 13.5" fans.
Sort of...but the radiator in the pic is definitely shorter than the Tundra unit.
For DH, the ratings are what they claim across a typical radiator. I'm thinking everyone has a slightly different way of estimating CFM. Could also be that the fans I'm using are just cheap (which they weren't cheap$$$).
Looking through DH's build thread, I think my shroud is a bit bigger, but I'm not sure. Mine covers the entire radiator. We'll see what happens at highway speed where the fans aren't needed. If I run hot on the highway, I'll have to cut some slots in the bottom of the shroud.
The 35 amp FAL VSC is designed to run two fans. For those interested in separate controls, consider using the basic Hayden thermostat switch, which is just an on-off adjustable temp control. You could run the first fan on the VSC and the second would turn on at a higher temp or if you turn on the A/C.
I'm also interested in hearing if anyone has any thoughts on the FAL 35A VSC being able to handle the Mark VIII fan. I shot a note to Brian at Delta Current Control and he indicated that most guys are using his 35A controller as opposed to his 50A or 80A controllers.
I was going to take pics during my build, but I got lazy. It looks a lot like DH's build except I used 1/8" galvanized sheet metal. I welded nuts and studs to the shroud for mounting purposes. The VSC is mounted on the top passenger side of the shroud. I used a 30A auto-reset circuit breaker. I set things up so I can unplug the wires and pull out the shroud.
Sort of...but the radiator in the pic is definitely shorter than the Tundra unit.
For DH, the ratings are what they claim across a typical radiator. I'm thinking everyone has a slightly different way of estimating CFM. Could also be that the fans I'm using are just cheap (which they weren't cheap$$$).
Looking through DH's build thread, I think my shroud is a bit bigger, but I'm not sure. Mine covers the entire radiator. We'll see what happens at highway speed where the fans aren't needed. If I run hot on the highway, I'll have to cut some slots in the bottom of the shroud.
The 35 amp FAL VSC is designed to run two fans. For those interested in separate controls, consider using the basic Hayden thermostat switch, which is just an on-off adjustable temp control. You could run the first fan on the VSC and the second would turn on at a higher temp or if you turn on the A/C.
I'm also interested in hearing if anyone has any thoughts on the FAL 35A VSC being able to handle the Mark VIII fan. I shot a note to Brian at Delta Current Control and he indicated that most guys are using his 35A controller as opposed to his 50A or 80A controllers.
I was going to take pics during my build, but I got lazy. It looks a lot like DH's build except I used 1/8" galvanized sheet metal. I welded nuts and studs to the shroud for mounting purposes. The VSC is mounted on the top passenger side of the shroud. I used a 30A auto-reset circuit breaker. I set things up so I can unplug the wires and pull out the shroud.
Wish you would've taken pictures because yours sounds more professionally done or looking than mine. Never thought of welding nuts and studs to the shroud...mmm. Not too late! I used rubber gaskets to minimize vibration from the fans but I did get a very little when one of them starts up but goes away once it gets going.
Do you have any vibration at all?
My shroud does cover the whole radiator too and no issues at highway speeds (YET). I'm waiting for it to get really hot (about 95) and I'm going to hook my Jeep up and tow it for the whole day, highway and stop and go. So far no issues BUT I'm waiting before cutting vent holes because I designed the shroud where I can add two more 12" fans if needed. My next step is to either add two 12" fans or cut slots for air to pass through. Either way it's more than just a hole as it will affect the performance of the other fans if done wrong.
I decided to mount the controllers in the fender to keep them away from the heat and vibration which in turn should extend the life of the controllers (was my thinking). Maybe I over engineered it!
As of now, my two 14" fans seem to do fine and there may be no need for the two 12". If so, my next step is to remove the shroud and cut the slots for air to pass through. I may weld the studs and nuts to shroud too! That's a great idea I never thought of.
__________________ MODS:
2.5" SAW Coilovers, 1" AAL, Added Heated Seats, Under Drive Pulley, K&N drop filter, Electric Fans, 295/70-17 Nitto's, 1.75" Wheel Adapters, Rhino Liner, Under Coating, VSE w/Dynamat coating.
Thunder Gray Metallic
2002 REGULAR CAB - LONG BED - 4WD - V8 - SR5
TRD / Kazuma LSD made by EATON
Bilstein HD shocks
Michelin 8 ply E series radials
JBA headers
Hellwig rear bar
Line-X over the rail
2005 tail lights
OEM Door Sill protectors
TRD Off-Road front coil springs
Color matched LEER Hi-Top cap
Wet Okole Sport Seat Covers
Tinted Windows
OEM Rubber Bed Mat
OEM All-Weather mats
OEM Towing Package with Remote Transmission Cooler
So I installed dual electric fans last week and noticed a Huge difference in Mileage and power!!!
I have had my SR5 4x4 2000 tundra for 8 years and never saw decent mileage until this week! We drove from Mass to Penn. for a camping trip and loaded the whole truck with stuff. on the trip there I drove 60 - 65 with a light foot and made the 267 mile trip in 5 hours and only used 12.89 gallons all highway... you do the math 20.7!!! that's 3 more than I've EVER gotten from this truck.
on the way home I drove hard and stayed above 70 with the A/C on and still averaged 18.7!! there is hope
on the backroads I'm getting 17.5 on average driving normal
I like the sound of this.
Specifically, which brand did you buy?
What did you have to do in order to appropriately prep your truck?
Did you need any specialized tools?
How much did it cost you?
When you said you installed, do you mean you did it or had it done?
What are the costs you all are typically seeing over all for the various ways this mod is being done?
Details! I like what I am hearing you say. I have always wondered if the Tundra fan clutch was a culprit. Sounds like you may have unlock the biggest fuel saver for the truck. I know in warm weather that big fan gives the motor no quarter.
Yah, I get a slight vibration on fan start but they smooth out solid once they get going. I don't think the vibration will be a problem for the controller(s) as there's so little vibration as to not be a concern. The VSC sits on top of nuts that I welded on to the shroud. This puts some air between the VSC and shroud. But the FAL VSC units are potted, so vibration and heat should not be a problem.
As for the vents, let's think about building on demand vents for highway use....I'm thinking of hinged doors like some of the FAL twin-fan units. I'm not sure how much they would open with airflow. Done properly, the fan airflow won't open them. What would be really slick is to put a micro switch on the vents so that at highway speed where the fans aren't needed, even for the A/C, the vent doors would open and trip the switch turning off the fans. I was thinking of tapping into the converter lock-up switch to do this. Ultimately, the question is whether or not the holes for the two 14" fans will allow enough air through at highway speeds to keep things cool.
Also, let's kick around thoughts on how hot is too hot. I'll be you can't see 10* of movement on the factory gauge. The ScanGauge will show small movements. Someone on here posted about the optimal temp for the Ford 4.6L being 202*. My Tundra likes to run on the highway at 190* (that was before the fans). I'm betting there might be some additional fuel economy gains to be had by running a slightly higher temp. I'm kind of surprised that the 4.7L has a relatively low running temp and thermostat. 195* are more common than not, but the 4.7 is supposed to open between 176* and 183*. Go figure. Maybe the cooler temps are required to keep detonation away?
Just went for a long stop-n-go drive (furniture shopping). It's 95* and sunny today here in Orlando with lots of humidity. In traffic, I was up to 207*. on the highway, I was down to 190 (which is where I was at with the mechanical fan).
I'm not convinced there's enough airflow from these particular fans to do the job. Could be that the particular fans I picked up just don't have enough guts...I may end up putting on the Mark VIII fan after all. I know that puppy will move enough air...supposedly up to 4500 cfm!
All in all, I don't know that 207* is completely whack, especially given the day. I'm not sure where I would have been with the mechanical fan, probably 195* or so.
Yah, I get a slight vibration on fan start but they smooth out solid once they get going. I don't think the vibration will be a problem for the controller(s) as there's so little vibration as to not be a concern. The VSC sits on top of nuts that I welded on to the shroud. This puts some air between the VSC and shroud. But the FAL VSC units are potted, so vibration and heat should not be a problem.
As for the vents, let's think about building on demand vents for highway use....I'm thinking of hinged doors like some of the FAL twin-fan units. I'm not sure how much they would open with airflow. Done properly, the fan airflow won't open them. What would be really slick is to put a micro switch on the vents so that at highway speed where the fans aren't needed, even for the A/C, the vent doors would open and trip the switch turning off the fans. I was thinking of tapping into the converter lock-up switch to do this. Ultimately, the question is whether or not the holes for the two 14" fans will allow enough air through at highway speeds to keep things cool.
Also, let's kick around thoughts on how hot is too hot. I'll be you can't see 10* of movement on the factory gauge. The ScanGauge will show small movements. Someone on here posted about the optimal temp for the Ford 4.6L being 202*. My Tundra likes to run on the highway at 190* (that was before the fans). I'm betting there might be some additional fuel economy gains to be had by running a slightly higher temp. I'm kind of surprised that the 4.7L has a relatively low running temp and thermostat. 195* are more common than not, but the 4.7 is supposed to open between 176* and 183*. Go figure. Maybe the cooler temps are required to keep detonation away?
The flaps don’t really need to be mechanical in any way I think. The wind its self will open the flaps at highway speeds. That’s how the Perma Cool one is designed. I was just looking at some flaps that the wind would push open as you pick up speed and close when you slow down.
I don’t have a Scan Gauge and you may be right that I can’t see 10 degrees change on the factory gauge. All I can tell is my factory gauge doesn’t move that much but it does move just a hair in the extreme heat. I never noticed what it does down the highway, as I rarely travel on the highway.
__________________ MODS:
2.5" SAW Coilovers, 1" AAL, Added Heated Seats, Under Drive Pulley, K&N drop filter, Electric Fans, 295/70-17 Nitto's, 1.75" Wheel Adapters, Rhino Liner, Under Coating, VSE w/Dynamat coating.