Yah, the flaps would simply be hinged at the top and the air would blow them open. With some experimentation, you could figure out how far open they open at specific speeds. My idea is to wire them up to a switch so that when they open up enough indicating 50mph or whatever, the fans would shut off. The fans aren't needed at high-way speeds and only suck up power.
I will also say that, in traffic at idle, my voltage on the ScanGauge was dropping down to 12.4V or so. Not good. I have the standard alternator. This could be a part of my air flow problem. The fans are going to spin faster with higher voltage. Ideally, I should be at 13+V at idle. Of course, I'm also running the AC and my stereo system, which has two amps. I'm not going to run out and get a bigger alternator just for this...when my burns out, I'll upgrade.
Yah, the flaps would simply be hinged at the top and the air would blow them open. With some experimentation, you could figure out how far open they open at specific speeds. My idea is to wire them up to a switch so that when they open up enough indicating 50mph or whatever, the fans would shut off. The fans aren't needed at high-way speeds and only suck up power.
I will also say that, in traffic at idle, my voltage on the ScanGauge was dropping down to 12.4V or so. Not good. I have the standard alternator. This could be a part of my air flow problem. The fans are going to spin faster with higher voltage. Ideally, I should be at 13+V at idle. Of course, I'm also running the AC and my stereo system, which has two amps. I'm not going to run out and get a bigger alternator just for this...when my burns out, I'll upgrade.
More to come...
Part of the reason I ran two fans with two VSCs. I've one fan set to come before the other. This puts less of a demand on my electrical system and keeps a steady flow of air across the radiator. When the cooling system needs it, the second fan kicks in.
This is the reason I designed it for another two 12" fans. I was going to have them on their own VSC to run first which would have less amp draw.
Any way I had in mind max air movement with the least amount of amp draw when I designed it. That's why I chose this set up. Overall it made the most since to me but cost more than other set ups.
__________________ MODS:
2.5" SAW Coilovers, 1" AAL, Added Heated Seats, Under Drive Pulley, K&N drop filter, Electric Fans, 295/70-17 Nitto's, 1.75" Wheel Adapters, Rhino Liner, Under Coating, VSE w/Dynamat coating.
Do not rely on factory temp. gauge. Those are notoriously vague and designed that way on purpose as to NOT unnecessarily alarm users.
When you first start the truck it shows coolant COLD, after a mile or so, the temp. gauge is about horizontal ( meaning coolant has reached normal operating temperature) and the gauge will stay there unless the truck overheats.
As long as the coolant stays within acceptable range ( say, 180 to 210 ) the gauge won't move.
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Boosting happily ...
List of mods ( growing Daily ): L.E.D.s inside , Camper Shell with inside lights, Back up sensors and Camera , Subwoofer and Amp , Scangauge II , Hellwig Rear Bar , Billet Rear windows hinges, K&N Air Intake , Heated Seats, Tailgate assist bar, Westin Bull Bar and Skid Plate, Under hood lights, 1.25" Spidertrax spacers in Front, 1.75" wheeladapter spacers in back, Ultimate window tint, Multivex Mirrors.
Boosted may be right on the gauge. I'm thinking it's a three position gauge, but I have not proof to back up that theory.
None the less, the Imperial 226114 fans I was using, IMO, simply won't flow enough air. They are rated at 1250 CFM open and 1050 CFM across a radiator. There are other 14" fans out there rated at 1500 CFM open. These might do the trick. The Mark VIII fan is rated at 4500 CFM open.
As for current draw, I'm not sure what to think. The standard alternator is rated at 100A. A 35A draw shouldn't be a problem. I think the problem is when you have everything else running, too. Even then, I'm not sure it's a problem. Clearly, the alternator can keep up off idle, but at idle, mine was having a problem. The FSM says the voltage regulator is set for 13.2V to 14.8V and I was dropping down in the 12's at idle.
We know that there are several board members running an electric setup, presumably with success. The benefits are improved gas mileage and less noise. I assume these folks haven't had alternators crap out on them? My guess is that depending on the setup, their trucks might be running a bit hotter than the factory clutch fan setup. On this note, the question is how hot is too hot. I would think we're good up to 235* or so, not that you would want to run the engine that hot all the time. Actually, 200* would probably improve economy somewhat but might also shorten the lifespan of various underhood components.
I posted pics of my setup sans fans. I actually returned the fans to the store! Those fans were $70 a piece! I found some 14" fans on ebay for $30! Not sure what brand, but the guy bought 4 of them for a project and only used 2 for a short period of time. I figure if I want to go the 14" route, I'd be set and spend less money to boot.
Boosted may be right on the gauge. I'm thinking it's a three position gauge, but I have not proof to back up that theory.
None the less, the Imperial 226114 fans I was using, IMO, simply won't flow enough air. They are rated at 1250 CFM open and 1050 CFM across a radiator. There are other 14" fans out there rated at 1500 CFM open. These might do the trick. The Mark VIII fan is rated at 4500 CFM open.
As for current draw, I'm not sure what to think. The standard alternator is rated at 100A. A 35A draw shouldn't be a problem. I think the problem is when you have everything else running, too. Even then, I'm not sure it's a problem. Clearly, the alternator can keep up off idle, but at idle, mine was having a problem. The FSM says the voltage regulator is set for 13.2V to 14.8V and I was dropping down in the 12's at idle.
We know that there are several board members running an electric setup, presumably with success. The benefits are improved gas mileage and less noise. I assume these folks haven't had alternators crap out on them? My guess is that depending on the setup, their trucks might be running a bit hotter than the factory clutch fan setup. On this note, the question is how hot is too hot. I would think we're good up to 235* or so, not that you would want to run the engine that hot all the time. Actually, 200* would probably improve economy somewhat but might also shorten the lifespan of various underhood components.
I posted pics of my setup sans fans. I actually returned the fans to the store! Those fans were $70 a piece! I found some 14" fans on ebay for $30! Not sure what brand, but the guy bought 4 of them for a project and only used 2 for a short period of time. I figure if I want to go the 14" route, I'd be set and spend less money to boot.
As far as the gauge goes, I'm not to concerned as mine hasn't over heated yet. Which means it's good.
35A additional draw is hugh on the system! I'd avoid it if at all possible. If you add everything else in the truck you'll probably be over rated.
My first design looked just like yours, in that the twwo VSCs was mounted in the same spot. Then I decided to move them from the heat and vibration...maybe not needed but that was my thinking. My thinking was no more work to put them else where and only a possible gain. Plus a planned on putting a 12 " fan there if needed and if not putting pass though holes as we spoke of earlier.
__________________ MODS:
2.5" SAW Coilovers, 1" AAL, Added Heated Seats, Under Drive Pulley, K&N drop filter, Electric Fans, 295/70-17 Nitto's, 1.75" Wheel Adapters, Rhino Liner, Under Coating, VSE w/Dynamat coating.
Boosted may be right on the gauge. I'm thinking it's a three position gauge, but I have not proof to back up that theory.
None the less, the Imperial 226114 fans I was using, IMO, simply won't flow enough air. They are rated at 1250 CFM open and 1050 CFM across a radiator. There are other 14" fans out there rated at 1500 CFM open. These might do the trick. The Mark VIII fan is rated at 4500 CFM open.
As for current draw, I'm not sure what to think. The standard alternator is rated at 100A. A 35A draw shouldn't be a problem. I think the problem is when you have everything else running, too. Even then, I'm not sure it's a problem. Clearly, the alternator can keep up off idle, but at idle, mine was having a problem. The FSM says the voltage regulator is set for 13.2V to 14.8V and I was dropping down in the 12's at idle.
We know that there are several board members running an electric setup, presumably with success. The benefits are improved gas mileage and less noise. I assume these folks haven't had alternators crap out on them? My guess is that depending on the setup, their trucks might be running a bit hotter than the factory clutch fan setup. On this note, the question is how hot is too hot. I would think we're good up to 235* or so, not that you would want to run the engine that hot all the time. Actually, 200* would probably improve economy somewhat but might also shorten the lifespan of various underhood components.
I posted pics of my setup sans fans. I actually returned the fans to the store! Those fans were $70 a piece! I found some 14" fans on ebay for $30! Not sure what brand, but the guy bought 4 of them for a project and only used 2 for a short period of time. I figure if I want to go the 14" route, I'd be set and spend less money to boot.
Forgot to mention I really like the welding the nuts and studs idea. I'd have to buy the aluminum welding adapter kit for my mig welder to do it. Good reason!
__________________ MODS:
2.5" SAW Coilovers, 1" AAL, Added Heated Seats, Under Drive Pulley, K&N drop filter, Electric Fans, 295/70-17 Nitto's, 1.75" Wheel Adapters, Rhino Liner, Under Coating, VSE w/Dynamat coating.
Forgot to mention I really like the welding the nuts and studs idea. I'd have to buy the aluminum welding adapter kit for my mig welder to do it. Good reason!
Save some coin DH, try using some JB Weld instead. Think that'll hold up?
I will also say that, in traffic at idle, my voltage on the ScanGauge was dropping down to 12.4V or so. Not good. I have the standard alternator. This could be a part of my air flow problem. The fans are going to spin faster with higher voltage. Ideally, I should be at 13+V at idle.
LED bulbs in all external locations (except headlights of course) will make all the difference for "brown out" problems such as this. I had this happen with an underdrive experiment on a Chev half ton years ago. LED bulbs everywhere and the problem was solved completely.
The voltage thing is simple...if you run too many items at one time, the voltage will drop if the alternator is at max output and the draw on the system is greater than that output. At idle, max output is less than 100A. I don't have a big enough amp meter to figure out what the fans draw,but my guess is 20 to 22. There are fans out there that would draw 35A+. Just another point of interest, the factory volt gauge won't show this issue, either. I only see it because I have the scan gauge.
I don't know what the 100A unit puts out at idle. At off-idle, the 100A alternator can keep up.
Some more data...I put the mechanical setup back on and found a steady temp of 190* with temps up to 193* in traffic. Voltage at idle would drop to high 12's.
I just purchased a Mark VIII fan from a seller on ebay. I have the fan.
I also ordered a controller from Delta Controls, two weeks ago. No controller, no response to repeated emails and no response to phone calls. Has anyone had trouble with Delta Controls? Did Delta Controls ship in a timely fashion? Did Delta Controls respond to inquiries? Does anyone know if they are still in business? Paypal had no problem sending my $145.00 to Delta Controls.
I have thought about this mod for quite a while as I know it can make a substanial difference in power/mpg. The problem is I cant afford to sacrifice any reliabilty since I often drive in remote areas. If there was a high quality kit with a proven track record I would jump all over it.
I just purchased a Mark VIII fan from a seller on ebay. I have the fan.
When you say Mark VIII fan I assume you are referring to one out of a Mark VIII. Why a Mark VIII fan? Is there something special about these particular fans?
When you say Mark VIII fan I assume you are referring to one out of a Mark VIII. Why a Mark VIII fan? Is there something special about these particular fans?
They're 2-speed fans that move about 5000 cfm. The 1993-1996 model (#F3LY8C607A) spins at 1100 and 1850 rpm and the 1997 (#F7LZ8C607AB) and 1998 (#F8LZ8C607AA) models both spin at 1800 and 2225 rpm.
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Waiter, how do you prepare your chickens?
Nothing special. We just tell them straight out that they're going to die.
Base: 2001 Tundra - Thunder Grey | SR5 | TRD | 4x4 | HD TRD Coil Springs | Tow Pkg | Factory Spray-on Bedliner | RS3000 Security
Mods: Mickey Thompson Classic II | Bilstein 5100 Shocks | Differential Drop Spacers | 930 Inner CV Boots | ProtechEZLift Limit Straps | Spintech Sportsman XL Muffler | Brembo Front Brake Rotors | Heavy Duty OEM Rear Drums | A.R.E. Z-Series Cap w/ Thule Rack | Stubbs Rock Sliders | Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar | 285/75/16 BFG All Terrain TA KO's | VIAIR 400C Air Compressor w/ 2.5 gal tank | Front clear corner lamps | Odyssey PC1700T battery | Optima Red Top 75/35 battery (backup starter) | Hellroaring 95300A Isolator/Combiner | Truspeed Calibrator
Future: Winch Bumper | UCAs & Coilovers | RCD Lift | 4.30 Gears
Re: Electric Fans = Better Mileage
Good reason!
Linear Mode
