You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
1Gen-TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2000 to 2006 Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "fat bob's", within the 1Gen-Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
Ya i was going to ask about that too. I been reading for the 1 gen tundra 3 " might be a bit higher then the back and 2.5 was better. Is that correct. and also is it true if you use a leveling kit like these CV joint might have a problem????
I don't have any experience with that site, but I can tell you that a 3" suspension lift on the front will set the front higher than the rear. If you're set on doing a 3", then go with a 1.5" rear lift to level it out. the 2" lift is the closest to a true level lift if you don't want to lift the rear.
Whether you go with a 2.5" or 3" front lift, you should also do the "hose clamp" mod on the cv's. it cheap and easy and will keep the grease from spewing out. you can pick up the clamps at any harware store ( Lowe's, Home depot) and clamp them on over the existing cv boot clamps.
tHANK YOU so much, however I can't seem to find any leveling kit with a 2" lift. everything out there is a 2.5 or most of them are 3" lift. You know where i can go and get some. I don't wanna lift the back cuz i still load bikes and stuff in there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace Laserna
I don't have any experience with that site, but I can tell you that a 3" suspension lift on the front will set the front higher than the rear. If you're set on doing a 3", then go with a 1.5" rear lift to level it out. the 2" lift is the closest to a true level lift if you don't want to lift the rear.
Whether you go with a 2.5" or 3" front lift, you should also do the "hose clamp" mod on the cv's. it cheap and easy and will keep the grease from spewing out. you can pick up the clamps at any harware store ( Lowe's, Home depot) and clamp them on over the existing cv boot clamps.
I know i can go Coilovers but they are like 600 some dollars. Do coilovers have the same problems with the CV joints. Maybe i can go billsteins 5100 maybe????
tHANK YOU so much, however I can't seem to find any leveling kit with a 2" lift. everything out there is a 2.5 or most of them are 3" lift. You know where i can go and get some. I don't wanna lift the back cuz i still load bikes and stuff in there.
I was reading a thread in the Supension and Handleing forum that made the claim that the coilovers are the best way to go unless you also do the upper control arms. The spacer above and below put an excessive amount of wear on the ball joints (the write-up even had pictures of the damaged ball joints).
After reading all that info, I feel Bilstein 5100 is probably the safest, cheapest way to get that 0-2.5" lift and I thought WheelerOffRoad.com had a decent price.
BJ
__________________
2003 Tundra 4.7L V8 Access Cab Limited 4WD
w/ all factory packages,Black Onyx 202-rebadged. was stock 31K on 5/9/05, now 56K
*Moto Metal M0951 Gloss Black 17 in. Alloys *SpiderTrax 1.25" Wheel Spacers * Goodyear Fortera TripleTred radials P275/60R17 *
Suspension:
*Bilstein HD Shocks, F&R *Hellwig Rear Sway Bar & Helper Springs *TCS Poly Steering Rack Bushings *Wheeler's Front Sway Bar Bushings *Timbren SES Kit, Front & Rear *
I been reading a bit, i have to say leveling or lifting you truck is alot of work and you might have alot of bugs. Man i was excited about leveling out my truck and now don't know what to do....
I had a 2.5" daystar installed yesterday along with a 1.5 AAL and the ride didn't change all that much. I was pleasantly surprised...it only cost me $250 to install and I'm getting my tires in about 3 minutes!
I know what you mean, but I a not worried about the performance. Its the CV boots and other suspension bugs that comes with it that I am worried about.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevo
I had a 2.5" daystar installed yesterday along with a 1.5 AAL and the ride didn't change all that much. I was pleasantly surprised...it only cost me $250 to install and I'm getting my tires in about 3 minutes!
I installed a 3 inch spacer on a friends double cab and it sits just about level. I installed 3 inch springs on my Doublecab and it sits about level. What I always suggest is for people to do the front lift then if you do not like the stance then do the rear. Better then doing both and paying for it if you would have been happy with the back being stock.
Coilovers will give you the best performing/riding lift but it costs more. The spacer or springs give you a stiffer ride and when you hit speed bumps it is kind of violent but I got a 3 inch spacer for $70. SO he wanted to spend 70 and deal with the stiffer ride instead of 600+.
__________________ '05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip
1994 Toy: The TOY Standard cab, Long travel front pulling13" w/Double fox w/Res, Deaver rear at 18" w/Single 2.5 18" fox w/Res., full glass, Bumper to Bumper cage, Gusseted frame, PRP seats, Crow harnesses, Custom steering(All Heims & Chromoly), Grant steering wheel, Smoothest ride around. OH by the way only 70,000 miles.
Like you I have a 06 DC TRD 2wd. So far do you have any problem, with your 3 inch spacer lift. Is your CV boot leaking shiet????
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsrtrcr01
I installed a 3 inch spacer on a friends double cab and it sits just about level. I installed 3 inch springs on my Doublecab and it sits about level. What I always suggest is for people to do the front lift then if you do not like the stance then do the rear. Better then doing both and paying for it if you would have been happy with the back being stock.
Coilovers will give you the best performing/riding lift but it costs more. The spacer or springs give you a stiffer ride and when you hit speed bumps it is kind of violent but I got a 3 inch spacer for $70. SO he wanted to spend 70 and deal with the stiffer ride instead of 600+.
Like you I have a 06 DC TRD 2wd. So far do you have any problem, with your 3 inch spacer lift. Is your CV boot leaking shiet????
If you have a 2wd like me then we do not have CV boots to leak. that is only on 4 wd models. No issues so far to report. All is good
__________________ '05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip
1994 Toy: The TOY Standard cab, Long travel front pulling13" w/Double fox w/Res, Deaver rear at 18" w/Single 2.5 18" fox w/Res., full glass, Bumper to Bumper cage, Gusseted frame, PRP seats, Crow harnesses, Custom steering(All Heims & Chromoly), Grant steering wheel, Smoothest ride around. OH by the way only 70,000 miles.
fat bob's
'05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip 
1994 Toy: 
Linear Mode
