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1Gen-TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2000 to 2006 Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "O2 sensor replacement question", within the 1Gen-Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
Recently, my check engine light came on and the OBD came up with the trouble code
P135.. which is the Pre-converter oxygen sensor heater or circuit fault (bank 1, sensor 1) Driver-side upper sensor
I went to the stealership and I was quoted a price of $250 for parts/labor just to replace that sensor. The guy who helped me was helpful though, he recommended if I replace it to apply plenty of penetrating oil on the threads.
Since O2 sensors are around $ 70-80 and my labor is free, I decided to give it a shot myself. The Haynes manual shows that it isn't too hard to do, but is there any advice you guys can give me? Any Do's and Dont's? I plan on using anti-seize compound on the threads instead of oil.
I probably won't start repairing this for a couple weeks but I assume it's safe to drvie b/c its only an O2 sensor. Please correct me if I'm wrong
Get an O2 sensor socket at the parts store. It has a slit in the side for the wires. When you buy your new senor, notice how the plastic clip works. I had trouble figuring it out when under the truck.
Get an O2 sensor socket at the parts store. It has a slit in the side for the wires. When you buy your new senor, notice how the plastic clip works. I had trouble figuring it out when under the truck.
how long did it take you to replace that sensor? And did you use anti-seize compound on the threads?
Get an O2 sensor socket at the parts store. It has a slit in the side for the wires. When you buy your new senor, notice how the plastic clip works. I had trouble figuring it out when under the truck.
on this. And yes, use antiseize, never oil. Check the antiseize that you get, there are different temp ratings on them. You need the high temp for engines and exhaust.
I used PB Baster before trying to get them out and they broke loose with no problems. The plastic clips were more challenging. I ended up bending a small flathead screwdriver to release the lock.
Cool.. thanks to everyone for the tips. I ordered an OE O2 sensor on ebay for 65 and will attempt it next weekend. I got under the truck today and found the front left sensor. Shouldn't be too bad.. will post the results when it's done.
I used pb-blaster from walmart, sprayed it on the sensor threads and let it sit overnight. You do not have to remove the heat sheild, get a $10 socket from autozone with a slot in the side of it, they are made for O2 sensor removal. Then you must remake the wiring and reuse the old wiring plug. The wires on mine were the same as the original sensor, 2blue 2white, you cant hook it up wrong. The sensor came with crimp on butt connectors and then it soldered them on as well, it also came with shrink tubing, which I melted over the splices with a lighter. Make sure you leave the leads on the old wiring plug long. It took me about 30 minutes from start to finish and the check engine light went out (i had to remove the positive battery cable because I was going on a long trip and didnt want to drive with it on in case something else failed on the trip). The sensor came out very easily, no creaking or rust, and the new sensor also came with high heat thread antiseize.
If you can change a spark plug you can do this job. I will keep the socket as my truck has 4 O2 sensors. My truck has 112K on it, I am sure the others will fail soon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TundraD00
Recently, my check engine light came on and the OBD came up with the trouble code
P135.. which is the Pre-converter oxygen sensor heater or circuit fault (bank 1, sensor 1) Driver-side upper sensor
I went to the stealership and I was quoted a price of $250 for parts/labor just to replace that sensor. The guy who helped me was helpful though, he recommended if I replace it to apply plenty of penetrating oil on the threads.
Since O2 sensors are around $ 70-80 and my labor is free, I decided to give it a shot myself. The Haynes manual shows that it isn't too hard to do, but is there any advice you guys can give me? Any Do's and Dont's? I plan on using anti-seize compound on the threads instead of oil.
I probably won't start repairing this for a couple weeks but I assume it's safe to drvie b/c its only an O2 sensor. Please correct me if I'm wrong
because you don't have to remake the wiring. just plug and go. I will def. get the pb-blaster tho. I don't wanna make this problem into a more expensive one by screwing up somehow.
I used pb-blaster from walmart, sprayed it on the sensor threads and let it sit overnight. You do not have to remove the heat sheild, get a $10 socket from autozone with a slot in the side of it, they are made for O2 sensor removal. Then you must remake the wiring and reuse the old wiring plug. The wires on mine were the same as the original sensor, 2blue 2white, you cant hook it up wrong. The sensor came with crimp on butt connectors and then it soldered them on as well, it also came with shrink tubing, which I melted over the splices with a lighter. Make sure you leave the leads on the old wiring plug long. It took me about 30 minutes from start to finish and the check engine light went out (i had to remove the positive battery cable because I was going on a long trip and didnt want to drive with it on in case something else failed on the trip). The sensor came out very easily, no creaking or rust, and the new sensor also came with high heat thread antiseize.
If you can change a spark plug you can do this job. I will keep the socket as my truck has 4 O2 sensors. My truck has 112K on it, I am sure the others will fail soon.
I just did this same job. Spray liberally with the PB Blaster. The threads get carboned up and as you unscrew it, they may gall. Spray it again and screw it back in. I had to thread it in and out until I finally got it out, spraying as I went.
First off see if your O2 sensors are covered under an extended warentee..My 2001 was but my dealer told me nothing of this, After going to the toyota web site and finding it was they very begrugingly fixed it for free.. They were both covered.
The plastic clip took some time to do. I just shoved a small slot head screwdriver to lift the clip up and pulled it out. It took a little wiggling to get it out.
I went to auto zone and rented an 02 sensor socket for free. Sprayed the heck out of the O2 threads with PB Blaster and went back an hour later and screwed it off completely. You don't have a whole lot of room down there so I would spray a bunch to loosen it more so you can use a shorter socket wrench. Anything bigger and you clank it against the frame. Also, spray in a well ventilated area. I was only under there a minute and started to see double because of the fumes.
Installation took 30 seconds. The threads already had anti-seize so I just twisted it in. Then reconnect and done.
Disconnect the neg. terminal on the battery for 30 seconds, which resets the computer. The check engine light is now gone and hopefully will be gone for awhile.
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O2 sensor replacement question
on this. And yes, use antiseize, never oil. Check the antiseize that you get, there are different temp ratings on them. You need the high temp for engines and exhaust.
but i am sure denso quality is one reason!
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