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1Gen-TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2000 to 2006 Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "hard starting when hot", within the 1Gen-Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
Ok this is going to be very hard for me to explain but I am going to give it a shot. I have a 02 Tundra 3.4 with 74K miles. The truck starts "normal" when it is "cold." Smooth and even cranking while it is turning over. When the truck is hot (operating temp), is does not start as smooth and it seems like it almost stumbles as it is turning over to start. I hold the key until it starts so I know that’s not it. I can notice a difference as the engine is turning over when it is hot versus when it is cold. Does anyone know what I am talking about and if so, do you know what I am talking about? I have heard one other V6 Tundra around the same year as mine, at the gas station one day and it sounded like it started the same as mine does after it's hot. I know the injectors are clean and the fuel filter was replace about 10k ago. It’s almost like the injectors are not spraying even fuel into the engine as it is starting when it is hot. Thanks in advance.
*Moto Metal M0951 Gloss Black 17 in. Alloys *SpiderTrax 1.25" Wheel Spacers * Goodyear Fortera TripleTred radials P275/60R17 *
Suspension:
*Bilstein HD Shocks, F&R *Hellwig Rear Sway Bar & Helper Springs *TCS Poly Steering Rack Bushings *Wheeler's Front Sway Bar Bushings *Timbren SES Kit, Front & Rear *
I had a fuel pump that would decide not to work once it heated up. I'd have to wait until it cooled off and then the truck would start. Eventually it would not start and I replaced the pump. That was on a Ford Ranger. Sometimes when components are going bad they will act up when under stress. Unfortunately the shop can only guess at what's happening until they can replicate the problem. My Ranger would perk up like a 12 year old Lab being taken to vet to be put down. "What who me, I'm not old and crap the floor"
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I'm not a pilot, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night!
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Another thing to check are your plugs. Are they the correct ones for the engine? I had some serious problems starting my V-8 at below freezing temps (teens) a couple of years ago in South Dakota. When I got back to Texas I eventially found out that the Toyota dealer that did my 90K service for me installed the Tacoma V-6 Denso plugs instead of the Tundra V-8 plugs. They also used Type IV ATF instead if DEX III in the tranny too, but that's another story! Anyways you might want to check your plugs.
I cleaned the throttle body buttery yesterday and it did not work any better. Which sensor is the MAF sensor and what should I use to clean it? The plugs were changed at the dealer about 10K ago. Its weird. As mentioned in my original post, when the engine is cold (not literally cold but when it is started first thing in the morning, 80 degrees or so) it turns over fast, steady and smooth. Then after it is run and shut off, I start it up and when it is cranking over, it is jerky or stumbling, then it starts. It seems to start with less RPM when it is hot.......very hard for me to explain.
Another thing to check are your plugs. Are they the correct ones for the engine? I had some serious problems starting my V-8 at below freezing temps (teens) a couple of years ago in South Dakota. When I got back to Texas I eventially found out that the Toyota dealer that did my 90K service for me installed the Tacoma V-6 Denso plugs instead of the Tundra V-8 plugs. They also used Type IV ATF instead if DEX III in the tranny too, but that's another story! Anyways you might want to check your plugs.
geezz............ill check the plugs tonight or tomorrow. Thanks
i found the MAF in my Hanyes book. When I tried to take one of the screws out, I rounded the X head screw out because the screw seems to be made from a soft metal. Now I dont know how I am going to get it out. I also tightened up all of the clamps that secure all of the air duct hoses going to the manifold. Most of them were loose. I hope that works but now Im more worried about getting that screw out. Any suggestions?
i found the MAF in my Hanyes book. When I tried to take one of the screws out, I rounded the X head screw out because the screw seems to be made from a soft metal. Now I dont know how I am going to get it out. I also tightened up all of the clamps that secure all of the air duct hoses going to the manifold. Most of them were loose. I hope that works but now Im more worried about getting that screw out. Any suggestions?
Stripping a screw is the worst, but I have a possible way to fix it. Place the screwdriver in the rounded head of the screw, make sure the screwdriver is straight. VERY CAREFULLY pour super glue into the head. The hope is the glue will serve as the stripped part and bind to both the screwdriver and the screw, creating one huge screw. wait for the glue to dry and apply downward pressure and twist in a counter-clockwise motion.
If you do get the screw out, you can detach it from the driver and run to your hardware store and buy a replacement. Should be available at most big chains, like home depot, Lowe's, etc.
Use MAF Cleaner ($3 at Walmart). Some people like to use rubbing alcohol on a quitip, but unless you got steady hands, use the can stuff and spray away. Once you detach the MAF from the air filter housing, take a look at the long stem of it. You're gonna find three wires that need spraying. You can spray them as much as you want, just don't touch them with the nozzle.
Let the MAF COMPLETELY dry before reinserting and starting the truck. You don't want to pay a couple hundred replacing the MAF because of that.
i found the MAF in my Hanyes book. When I tried to take one of the screws out, I rounded the X head screw out because the screw seems to be made from a soft metal. Now I dont know how I am going to get it out. I also tightened up all of the clamps that secure all of the air duct hoses going to the manifold. Most of them were loose. I hope that works but now Im more worried about getting that screw out. Any suggestions?
Got a piccie of it? You might have to drill it out and use a replacement screw fer it...hopefully one that doesn't strip out and is easier to work with!
after you've done all above and problem still existed, check your crank position sensor make sure it is in good working condition. you need OHM meter to do this job. if CPS is the cause of problem, you can change it yourself. I do not know how much this sensor cost, I guess it is a round $100. I had same problem with my mercedeze ml320 and part cost me $114.
I had a 99 Tacoma 3.4, and my brother has a 98 4runner 3.4. I know exactly what you are talking about. Those two and every other 3.4 I know of do it. They almost seem like they wont start when hot. Listen to the other tacos and 4runners out there and you will see they all pretty much do the same thing. I was worried about my Tacoma until I started noticing it seems to be the nature of the beast. I honestly wouldnt worry about it unless it gets worse.
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2005 Stepside TRD AC- phantom grey, 2.5" cornfed lift, 285/65/18 Nitto Terra Grapplers on Pro Comp 18x9 9089's,custom dual flowmaster 40 series, k+n fipk, pioneer dvd, 2 infinity kappa 8's under rear seat, all Infinity kappa components in doors, passport 8500, Scangauge II w/ blendmount, clear corners,tint, Tonneaumasters tonneau cover, and so on.
thanks for all the help guys. Ill try the super glue first and see. Once again, thank you and take care.
If it were me, I'd skip the superglue, go to my local Sears and pickup a Craftsman Screw-Out 3-piece Damaged Screw Remover for $19.99, but I have wanted on of those kits for a couple of years now, just in case I twisted out a screw.
May find similar at a local Auto Zone, Pep Boys, etc. Screw Extractors...
I now have a reason to pick one up myself, but that has to do with my son's ATV and the front brake mastercylinder cover. He stripped the screw that holds the top on and it needs brake fluid.
Good luck with the MAF cleaning.
BJ
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2003 Tundra 4.7L V8 Access Cab Limited 4WD
w/ all factory packages,Black Onyx 202-rebadged. was stock 31K on 5/9/05, now 56K
*Moto Metal M0951 Gloss Black 17 in. Alloys *SpiderTrax 1.25" Wheel Spacers * Goodyear Fortera TripleTred radials P275/60R17 *
Suspension:
*Bilstein HD Shocks, F&R *Hellwig Rear Sway Bar & Helper Springs *TCS Poly Steering Rack Bushings *Wheeler's Front Sway Bar Bushings *Timbren SES Kit, Front & Rear *
If it were me, I'd skip the superglue, go to my local Sears and pickup a Craftsman Screw-Out 3-piece Damaged Screw Remover for $19.99, but I have wanted on of those kits for a couple of years now, just in case I twisted out a screw.
May find similar at a local Auto Zone, Pep Boys, etc. Screw Extractors...
I now have a reason to pick one up myself, but that has to do with my son's ATV and the front brake mastercylinder cover. He stripped the screw that holds the top on and it needs brake fluid.
Good luck with the MAF cleaning.
BJ
ok thanks. I always look for an excuse to go to sears.
I had a 99 Tacoma 3.4, and my brother has a 98 4runner 3.4. I know exactly what you are talking about. Those two and every other 3.4 I know of do it. They almost seem like they wont start when hot. Listen to the other tacos and 4runners out there and you will see they all pretty much do the same thing. I was worried about my Tacoma until I started noticing it seems to be the nature of the beast. I honestly wouldnt worry about it unless it gets worse.
thats good to hear considering it is "normal". Thanks and now I can sleep a little better at night
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hard starting when hot
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