This was an easy and inexpensive mod with significant results. My truck has an adjustable coilover lift, 2.5" lift set at just about 2", just as many other members have. My front swaybar kind of lost its effect after the lift and I gained a small amount of body roll on the front of the truck. You can notice the hoods angle when you take sharp corners at considerable speeds.
Here's what a normal, non-lifted sway bar link looks like...
Photo courtesy of BAD BONEZ BJ.
Notice the proper squish factor.
Here's what mine looked like...
note: polyurethane bushings seen here are reused later.
Here's what mine look like now...
note: this is after 2 days of normal driving to allow settling.
Notice the natural angle and better squish factor.
Anyways, I'm not selling you on this product, just showing you how to install it
Tools needed:
* Downey H.D. Sway Bar Links, found here
* 3/8" Torque wrench w/ sockets - 14mm deep, 17mm deep, 19mm
* 17mm Open end wrench
* 6mm Hex key
* 1/2" Drill or Drill Press
* 5/8" carbide drill bit (pansy bits need not apply)
* Silicone grease
* PB Blaster (or similar) for the bolts
* a cheaper spray lubricant for the drilling
Step 1, Prep work.
Block rear tires, parking brake, neutral gear, key at ON position so you can turn wheels while under the truck. Lift front crossmember so front wheels are just off the ground.
Step 2, OEM Removal.
You'll need the 14mm deep and 17mm deep sockets here.
Remove the sway bar as seen here...
Now remove the OEM end links...
The removal of the lower nut is a bit tricky, the head is captured inside the little boot, so it turns with the nut after it's loosened. You have to hold the bolt end using the 6mm Hex key and turn the nut off using the 17mm Open end wrench. It's a small PITA...
Another angle of the captured bolt...
New H.D. link doesn't have this captured bolt, instead they used an eyelet with a large bushing inside...
Step 3, Drill the 5/8" hole.
The sway bar is one of the hardest metals on your truck, if not the hardest.
***I encourage you to WEAR SAFETY GLASSES***
You will need some patience or a very high RPM drill or impact drill here.
At one point, the bit I used turned red at the tip. The bar was also too hot to hold even at the center with your bare hands.
You may be asking: Why drill this larger hole?
It's in the instructions, do it.
No really, it allows more play for the larger diameter stud used in the new links. But, the factory hole in the sway bar is plenty large enough for the new stud, you can probably skip this step.
Step 4, Install the new links.
Reinstall the sway bar C-channel bushings. The kit comes with new ones, but I already had the Wheeler's anti-sway poly kit, so I opted out of the new Downey bushings and they took off $25 from the H.D. kit price.
Take a look at the new links, much beefier than the OEM links...
Downey's H.D. End Links are galvanized to prevent corrosion.
The new H.D. links use stronger hardware as well. You'll use a 17mm nut on the wider diameter stud as well as a 19mm nut on the 1/2" bolt holding the link to the mounting point.
Here's a photo with the discriptions...
Step 5, Tighten and Torque.
14mm nuts to 19 ft lbs (sway bar c-channel brackets)
17mm nuts to 14 ft lbs (new link studs)
19mm nuts to 25 ft lbs (new link mounting bolts)
Now, test out your hard work! Drive around, hit some bumps, take some turns, go and check the torque on everything. After a few days, if you so desire, recheck the torque again for safety.
Nice writeup. I was thinking about doing this mod since I noticed both my links were fairly rusted at the time I replaced the OEM bushings with urethane ones.
Did you get the standard length links or longer ones due to your lift?
__________________ 2002 Tundra Limited AC - V8, 2WD, LSD, White
Yeah, you'll need a good drill and drill bit. A black oxide bit will not cut it, you'll need either Titanium-coated or Cobalt Drill Bit, which-ever is hardest to cut through the hardness of the sway-bar. Also, cutting oil is highly recommended for the bit while drilling.
If you are not up to this drilling part, find a local machine shop an pay to have it drilled out.
Hey Tundradrenalin, finished product install looks good! It' got the right angles now for sure.
__________________
2003 Tundra 4.7L V8 Access Cab Limited 4WD
w/ all factory packages,Black Onyx 202-rebadged. was stock 31K on 5/9/05, now 56K
*Extang Full-Tilt Tonneau * Bedrug*Topline Tailgate Step *Mr. Gille Upper & Lower Billet Grille *WAAG Bumper Guards, front & rear *HT Side Step Nerf Bars *AVS Hood Protector *WeatherTech Vent Shades *JDM Black Taillights *TurnSmart Solar-power Mirror Turn-Signals *Altec 48" Line-of-Fire LED Light Kit *Altec 53" Screamer Amber Side Marker LED *PIAA Backup/Work Lights * 35 % Tinting *BullyLED Third Brake/Cargo Light *
Interior:
*Gentex Auto Dimming Compass/Temp Rear View *Garmin's Nuvi 660 GPS * Scan Guage II *Passport SR7 Radar/laser shifter *
Wheels/Tires:
*Moto Metal M0951 Gloss Black 17 in. Alloys *SpiderTrax 1.25" Wheel Spacers * Goodyear Fortera TripleTred radials P275/60R17 *
Suspension:
*Bilstein HD Shocks, F&R *Hellwig Rear Sway Bar & Helper Springs *TCS Poly Steering Rack Bushings *Wheeler's Front Sway Bar Bushings *Timbren SES Kit, Front & Rear *
Brakes:
*TRD Big Brake Kit (front) *
BAD BONEZ BJ
Last edited by BAD BONEZ BJ; 09-11-2008 at 10:28 PM.
Nice writeup. I was thinking about doing this mod since I noticed both my links were fairly rusted at the time I replaced the OEM bushings with urethane ones.
Did you get the standard length links or longer ones due to your lift?
After looking at oneprblmcat's links, it appears I received we received different lengths. I called Downey, spoke with the sales rep, who in turn spoke with a guy who assembles the kits, and they put together a kit for me. On their site I didn't notice two different size kits. The 23mm and the 27mm kits they sell are the diameters of the sway bars, which mine was neither (1" bar = 25.4mm). And since I didn't want the sway bar c-channel bushings, the diameter differences weren't an issue, they just left them out of the kit.
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My Truck: 2005 Tundra, 2UZFE. 4WD. AccessCab. Spectra Blue Mica (8M6). TRD. AT. CC. CK. DZ. FE. AW. LD. OF. TO. VP.
I just got off the phone with a guy at Downey who was VERY informative.
Recommends using the same length sway bar end as the OEM part just like Tundradrenalin did even for lifted trucks.
Strongly recommends drilling out the sway bar holes again as Tundradenalin did.
Interested in running a sale on Downey skid plates as he has too much inventory. I suggested that he do a group buy like Hellwig did on their rear sway bars.
Has a CV boot that he said was much better than the OEM ones but apparently is not yet up on their web site yet. I'm 2WD so it doesn't affect me.
Anyway, I ordered my end links with $25 off since I don't need the sway bar bushings. Thanks Tundradrenalin for that!
__________________ 2002 Tundra Limited AC - V8, 2WD, LSD, White
I just got off the phone with a guy at Downey who was VERY informative.
Recommends using the same length sway bar end as the OEM part just like Tundradrenalin did even for lifted trucks.
Strongly recommends drilling out the sway bar holes again as Tundradenalin did.
Interested in running a sale on Downey skid plates as he has too much inventory. I suggested that he do a group buy like Hellwig did on their rear sway bars.
Has a CV boot that he said was much better than the OEM ones but apparently is not yet up on their web site yet. I'm 2WD so it doesn't affect me.
Anyway, I ordered my end links with $25 off since I don't need the sway bar bushings. Thanks Tundradrenalin for that!
You bet bro!
I hope your results are as promising as mine were. Report back!
Hey thanks for confirming all those specs for me too
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My Truck: 2005 Tundra, 2UZFE. 4WD. AccessCab. Spectra Blue Mica (8M6). TRD. AT. CC. CK. DZ. FE. AW. LD. OF. TO. VP.
I might get this mod done. I've been getting back into the truck scene since I've sold my S2000. That stock sway bar looks so manipulated from the lift!
__________________ 2000 Toyota Tundra V8 Ivan Stewart Edition
2.5" Shocks by Sway A Way (Camburg)
King Coil Springs 650lb x 14"
11pk Deavers w/ 5100 Bilsteins
LT285/75R16 Nitto Terra Grappler Load Range D 122Q
Weld Racing Renegade 16x8 3 5/8 BS
JBA Titanium Coated Headers
Eclipse AVN5435 Unit
'05 Tail Lights
Clear Corners
TRD LSD soon!
List of mods ( growing Daily ): L.E.D.s inside , Camper Shell with inside lights, Back up sensors and Camera , Subwoofer and Amp , Scangauge II , Hellwig Rear Bar , Billet Rear windows hinges, K&N Air Intake , Heated Seats, Tailgate assist bar, Westin Bull Bar and Skid Plate, Under hood lights, 1.25" Spidertrax spacers in Front, 1.75" wheeladapter spacers in back, Ultimate window tint, Multivex Mirrors.
Thanks for bringing this upgrade to light. My front end link bushings have become worn and need replacing. Are these new end links applicable to two wheel drive models?
Thanks for bringing this upgrade to light. My front end link bushings have become worn and need replacing. Are these new end links applicable to two wheel drive models?
Check out your sway bar and make the call. Do the connections look like mine?
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My Truck: 2005 Tundra, 2UZFE. 4WD. AccessCab. Spectra Blue Mica (8M6). TRD. AT. CC. CK. DZ. FE. AW. LD. OF. TO. VP.
Would like to hear from you guys about those sway bar end links?
I know you used them for a while, are they worth it?
I am thinking to buy them for my truck
thanks
gene
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2006 Toyota Sequoia Limited 4x4 w/ lxr package, 7008 navi, rear entartaiment system, 20" x-sp enkei.
2001 Toyota Tundra SR5 4x4 - TRD 9+Psi Supercharged, JBA Ceramic Headers, Walboro 255LPH Fuel Pump, 1UZ Rods, 20" x-sp enkei wheels, 7009 navi w/custom JBL wire harness + OEM XM/Sirus radio, drive by wire, and many other mods.