Question '02 Tundra V8 SR5 Power Inverter Project Help!

[duffyatkinson]

I posted this in the Electrical forum, but no response, so I thought I'd give it a shot here.

I would like to run A/C power to the aluminum bed box in my 2002 Tundra V8. I need help figuring out the best wiring/mounting solution.

I'd like to have access to A/C power for low-wattage lights, radios, small air pumps, cell-phone recharger, and maybe a coffee machine. No blenders, hair dryers, TVs, or other high-torque motors etc would be used.

Here's my ideal specs:

1. Inverter mounted externally
2. Not sure about min size (800W? 1500W?)
3. At least two A/C outlets accessible from inside the bed box (maybe cut outlet holes in the box for the plugs with waterproof covers??)
4. Cutoff switch to disconnect the inverter from the battery
5. Power available without the engine running

Q: I've read members recommending installing the larger inverters in the engine compartment close to the battery due to heat buildup issues in the cab, but wouldn't the high ambient heat generated by the engine be an issue as well?

Q: If the inverter IS mounted close to the battery, is it possible to run a cable to carry the 110-120V from the inverter back to the bed box to a waterproof junction box to mount the power plugs in?

Would this address my requirements? It has thermal protection, low battery shutoff sensor, and some sort of ethernet-based remote on/off system: Northern Industrial 1500 Watt Inverter — Model# 11150 | Modified Sinewave | Northern Tool + Equipment

Any recommendations as to inverter brand, size, mounting options, and wiring solutions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks all!

[lukewaterhouse]

Originally Posted by duffyatkinson

Here's my ideal specs:

1. Inverter mounted externally
2. Not sure about min size (800W? 1500W?)
3. At least two A/C outlets accessible from inside the bed box (maybe cut outlet holes in the box for the plugs with waterproof covers??)
4. Cutoff switch to disconnect the inverter from the battery
5. Power available without the engine running

Q: I've read members recommending installing the larger inverters in the engine compartment close to the battery due to heat buildup issues in the cab, but wouldn't the high ambient heat generated by the engine be an issue as well?

Q: If the inverter IS mounted close to the battery, is it possible to run a cable to carry the 110-120V from the inverter back to the bed box to a waterproof junction box to mount the power plugs in?

Would this address my requirements? It has thermal protection, low battery shutoff sensor, and some sort of ethernet-based remote on/off system: Northern Industrial 1500 Watt Inverter — Model# 11150 | Modified Sinewave | Northern Tool + Equipment

Any recommendations as to inverter brand, size, mounting options, and wiring solutions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks all!

If you want small electric devices to run on this, an 800W inverter should be fine. But if you are going to go through the trouble why not go all out just in case you need it.

You will need deep cycle batteries as well as your starter battery to do this right. Otherwise you will have a very short window of run time on your setup without your motor running. One RV/Marine Deep cycle battery in your bed box should do it for 800W inverters, two batteries in parallel for 1500W inverters.

A cutoff switch is required so you don't have a constant drain on your battery(s) from the inverter. Use a high current capable, double pole, three way switch to switch your deep cycles from inverter to charging. You will need heavy gauge wires to go from the deep cycles to the inverters. They will be carrying up to 125 amps when running full throttle. A lighter gauge wire can be used for the charging circuit side.

On a side note, I would charge the deep cycles with a trickle charger or such after heavy use before switching them back to the trucks charging circuit. I'll bet that the truck won't like a big draw on the electronics while its running.

This should get you started. Help from an electrician would be best. Remember electronics run on smoke, once the smoke gets out, it's broke.

[duffyatkinson]

Thanks for your reply Luke.

The more I started to piece it together in my mind, the more I figured that I would need a dual battery system, maybe a deep-cycle mounted in the space over the passenger side front wheel well. I would have to consult with a vehicle electrician to properly install the isolator/combiner that would be required as well. I just don't know enough to be sure of doing it right.

Q: Do you think that the inverter could (or should) be mounted under the hood so as to keep the cable from the battery to the inverter as short as possible?

Q: Could I run the A/C supply line from the inverter back to a box with the 110/120V outlets?

Q: I figured the minimum gauge from the battery(s) to a 1500W inverter is #4 AWG. Correct?

Thanks for your help.

Duffy

[muvico]

I had that same dilema before and there are several ways of doing it but they all are time consuming and expensive, My solution was I bought a little battery inverter 1500 w in one little box , i got at home depot for 200 $ and it works fine , you can even recharge it from a 12v port from your truck. it is called power 1500.has two 120 outlets and one 12v output, you can even starter jump your truck from it if you need to.

[eallen62]

I used a Hellroaring dual battery isolator / combiner in my truck. There use to be a link in this forum on how its done. The hardest part was getting to the Positive cable on the starter. Since mine did not have ABS I just mounted a battery plate on the passenger side wheel well. It looks like it came from the factory like that.

[duffyatkinson]

Originally Posted by eallen62

I used a Hellroaring dual battery isolator / combiner in my truck. There use to be a link in this forum on how its done. The hardest part was getting to the Positive cable on the starter. Since mine did not have ABS I just mounted a battery plate on the passenger side wheel well. It looks like it came from the factory like that.

Hey Eric! How about some pics of your installation?!!!!

[eallen62]

I had pictures on here at one time, but they are gone. Here is the information that was posted a few years back from this guys site.
Welcome to the home for Tundra Solid Axle Swap info
Enter the site & look for the link on the left : Dual Battery Setup
I mounted my switch just above the e-brake release. One thing I wish I would have added was a separate volt meter. The dual battery's have save me many times! And helped me abuse my winch & lights on many a mud trip.

Hope it helps.