2006 DC OEM Battery - Anyone replaced theirs yet?

[Tundra2006CP]

I have a 2006 DC that was manufactured in Sept 06. I purchased it new in Dec 06. My question is about the battery. In past cars/trucks the OEM battery just fails one day right around 2 years - there is no slow starting or warning signs.

The cells in the battery have been maintained with distilled water and the voltage is showing 12.5 across the terminals. As we are about to move into winter, and I am often carrying children in the backseat, should I proactively get a new battery? Is there any other way than checking voltage to see if the CCAs are still present? I keep coming back to spending $100 on a new interstate battery is the easiest insurance but then again $100 is better still in the bank.

Has anyone else with a 2006 DC replaced their OEM battery? For others with older Tundra's what was your experience with the OEM battery?

Thanks - trying not to be obssesed with the battery but I just despise that " oh *&$$" feeling of a car or truck that won't start. Especially if the windchill is in the 10s or 20s.

Thanks

[JBH1989]

You need to get it load tested. Unfortunately you probably don't have a VAT-40 at your disposal so you'll have to take it somewhere.

The piece of crap chain stores (Autozone, Kragen, Advance, Checkers, Shucks, O'Reillys, etc) usually do electrical system checks and can tell you if it's good.

MAKE SURE THEY TEST THE BATT AT 1/2 CCA OF THE TRUCK (spec found in manual). Don't let them use some random number to check it.

[Greenie]

If you have a dealer that you regularly patronize and trust, they can test the battery and alternator in just a few minutes at no charge. They tested my wife's car gratis and the problem turned out to be corroded terminals of which I replaced both but that's another story.

As for the original equipment battery, my first one began leaking less than a year into ownership. It was replaced with a Toyota TrueStart 84 (under warranty) which I replaced a month ago with an Interstate MTP 24F. The TrueStart lasted close to seven years and even though it had not failed it was cranking slower in cold weather so rather than tempt fate I replaced it.

I had considered the Optima 34R but overzealous advertising hype and spotty reliability in recent years convinced me otherwise. In comparison Optima's initial free replacement warranty is 36 months/36 prorated as compared to the Interstate 30 month free replacement/85 month prorated according to each retailers specifications. The CCA and CA specs are identical for the Optima 34R and the MTP 24F. The MTP 24F actually beats the 34R in RC. The Optima is clearly more adaptable to SEVERE operating conditions but for most street applications the Interstate will suffice.

The Interstate MTP 24F has plenty of grunt to spin the 4.7, (800 CCA, RC 125 & 1000 CA). Incidentally the TrueStart and the MTP 24F are similar plate designs and both made by Johnson Controls. I paid $128 for mine and I installed it myself. Most Interstate dealers don't stock the MTP 24F since it's not their bread and butter line so you will probably have to special order one.

Inspect your terminals and if they look questionable replace them. The original Toyota terminals are a bit unorthodox in design and deteriorate quickly if not kept clean and free of corrosion. The ones for my wife's Lexus were around $12 bucks a pop so the respective Tundra parts should be in the same ballpark. And install a couple of anti-corrosion rings under the battery terminals while you're at it.

Decide for yourself but I've had good luck in the past with Interstate. Plus Interstate's dealer network is much larger and they consistently get top performance ratings.

However a defective product can fall through the cracks from any manufacturer so nothing is above reproach.

[mustang67408]

I would say have it checked, but most likely replace it. EVERY vehicle I have owned has had the battery take a dump just over the 2yr mark. My wifes T-bird (96) and now her -4 Sequoia(04) both did it to the day on the 2yr anniv.

[kanielb1]

I bought my truck in June 2005. I replaced my OEM battery 2 months ago with the AutoZone special DuraLast. I got 3 yrs & 3 months out of mine with no maintenance.

[skinny2]

It crossed my mind this weekend. The wife's Odyssey is about the same age as my Tundra and her batt went dead from sitting with radio on. It might have been ok, but I just swapped it out anyway. My Tundra was built Sept. 2004 and battery so far has been fine. Probably due anytime now..... I went with a Autozone Duralast Gold for her Ody. Three year free replacement and free jump-starts. Probably buy the same for the Tundra. I've had good luck with them in the past. I think Interstate is very good too, but no dealers around here with decent hours.

[Remerson]

If you had 12.5 volts without the engine running, it sounds OK to me. The OEM battery in my 2002 lasted six years and three seasons of heavy plowing. I replaced it with an Interstate (Johnson Controls) because thats what the OEM battery was...

If you test the battery with the engine running, you should read just over 14 volts.

[Tundra2006CP]

Appreciate all the responses - a lot of good thoughts and sounds like similiar experiences. I will go have it load tested and be specific about the CCA numbers they are testing against. I will go from there and respond back to this thread. - really appreciate our group of Tundra owners. I have learned so much over the last two years about my truck and more importantly about real world results.

[PJinNJ]

06 DC here with 38K, replaced the battery with a Sears Platinum. Just like annual oil changes, I change the battery every three years. P

[El Jeep]

My stocker died at almost 3 years to the day. It was optima time!

[JBH1989]

Check the water levels in the battery. Make sure it's right below the edge of the plastic "ring". If you can see lead above the water, just get a new one. If it's above the separators but below the edge of the ring, add some water. Use "good" water, preferable distilled water, not tap water.

Mine is almost 5 years old in my Seq (5yrs on the 31st) and it's still on the original battery. Load tested out just fine too. A Tundra I worked on this morning lasted almost 8 years before it gave up the ghost.

[labountyphoto]

I'm still using the original on my '04 4x4 TRD. Works perfectly, so far. Using a simple test with a cheap little battery (specific gravity) tester shows all cells fine. We don't have much very cold weather here but have very hot summers. Heat is about as rough on a battery as cold.

[GORILLA]

hi ,i replaced mine to the up-grade battery.
the 1 that comes stock isn't the best.
the up-grade battery is larger & better.
i replaced it after 2year's, not because it went bad, just because i went nutty with my audio system. i also added a kinetik 1800 also. i have 2 battery's in my truck.
gorilla

[skinny2]

I thought of something: the cold-weather package comes with a heavy-duty battery. So maybe those of us with that package might not be ready for a new one yet. I dont' recall exactly what came with the cold weather package, but i'm pretty sure it was HD battery, heater, starter, and something else.....heated mirrors maybe? Mine does have the heated mirrors, but that might be standard.

[netrickyaz]

i have heard from the guy that sold me my truck toyota warranties all there batteries for 5 years...i told him we replaced the one in my moms corolla he actually said oops dont tell her then.....