My 2003 (with 100k miles) filled with 93 Octane runs better than with 89 octane. Same MPG, but my seat of the pants feeling that the engine runs smoother and quieter. Am I dreaming or what?
My 2003 (with 100k miles) filled with 93 Octane runs better than with 89 octane. Same MPG, but my seat of the pants feeling that the engine runs smoother and quieter. Am I dreaming or what?
A lot will depend on the brand of gasoline that you use. It is my practice and personal belief that a tank of Shell V-Power (93 Octane) every thousand miles is a good thing.
To learn more about gasoline quality check out these websites:
Running a top tier high octane gas, like Shell V-Power can help smooth things out and run quieter for awhile. A lot of guys just run a bottle of quality fuel injector cleaner (Lucas is pretty good) with every oil change. For those who are running extended oil change intervals then the fuel injector cleaner probably should be run every three to five thousand miles.
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Highwaylizard 2004 Tundra Double Cab Limited Edition 4.7 liter V8, four speed automatic, four wheel drive, testing platform for fuel economy, self designed cold air intake using ram air principle, Fitch Fuel Catalyst, Aero Turbine, "Foolie Exhaust" from Aero Turbine back, True Flow Intake with True Flow foam filter, Mobile 1 in the engine, Wixx oil filter, Royal Purple in the differentials. 3:91 gears in the front (Thanks Cajuntundra!) and rear (Thanks Nytrousboy!) differentials, Toyo H/T Open Country tires
Unless you are getting some prattling or pre-ignition knock I'd run as low octane as I could. I had a Ford ranger that prattled on hills unless I ran 93. Made me made as crap! I'd do like was said above. Run something like a good shell or chevron and I would go as low a grade as I could.
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I'm not a pilot, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night!
My 2003 (with 100k miles) filled with 93 Octane runs better than with 89 octane. Same MPG, but my seat of the pants feeling that the engine runs smoother and quieter. Am I dreaming or what?
My truck runs better on 93 too. It always has. The owner's manual says to run 87 or higher. I'm sticking with the higher.
I run mid grade (89) in all my engines.....lawnmower,atv's....saws....truck and the corrolla too..........it is just a "good"? thing that I do for all my engines........do they need it? well that is debatable, but,thats the way I was raised.......maintain your equipment.........oil, good gas, air cleaner .........I have never lost an engine.......I have 115,000 on my 03 and have no issues with knock at all........and it is driven like I stole it sometimes.........
I run mid grade (89) in all my engines....and it is driven like I stole it sometimes.........
I always drive mine like its stollen
__________________ 2001 Toyota Tundra SR5 4x4 - JBA Ceramic Headers, Walboro 255LPH Fuel Pump, 1UZ Rods, IPT valve body, 20" x-sp enkei wheels, 7009 navi w/custom JBL wire harness + OEM XM/Sirus radio, drive by wire, and many other mods.
Thanks to RCsTundra (see his signature for Toyota Tundra service manuals)
2003 Nissan Maxima SE - (Platinum Edition), 3.5L (VQ35DE Engine), 4 speed auto, w/ factory Navigation, Xenon Headlights, Heated Steering Wheel/Seats, + way too many other options. Pretty quick for family car. (Nissan FSM http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/)
hi, it isn't neccessary to run any octane over 87. but it seem's to run better with higher octane, once the ECU unit adjust's for it.
also according to what i have read, higher octane burns cleaner.
also if you have modified your tundra than there is a suggestion to run higher octane, such as 91 or higher.
i used to use 87, than after all the mod's especially the UNICHIP, i only used 93octane.
but than i tried a experement slowly decreasing my octane to 87.
i never had any cell code's or any codes at all.
but i did notice a difference in performence at lower octane.
now since gas has gone more than double the price down from 450+ for 93 octane to 195, i switched back, and haven't looked back.
the moral of the story is , if you don't have any mod's, than in my opinion you are wasting your money buying 91 or higher octane. but if you like it and you feel ,your tundra run's better, than go ahead, and make yourself happy.
gorilla
For my Subaru, I cannot use a higher octane fuel...it burns to hot and to fast.
Some engines will not burn all the fuel and can send unburned excess fuel into the catalytic convertor and cause damage to the emissions system.
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2007 Tundra DC 4.7 SR5 TRD 4X4
Garmin Nuvi 1300T
Stubby antenna
Clear Bra,
ARB Bumper,
Line-X,
325/60/18 Nitto Terra Grapplers,
18" KMC XD Hoss Black,
ARE CX Series Topper,
KC Rally 800 long range lights,
Tinted windows,
Wet Okoles Frt & Rear,
Weather Tech rain deflectors,
Weather Tech floor liners frt/rear,
Ready Lift 2.4"
Bel Vector 995 Radar Detector,
Wilson cellular booster,
Cobra 75 WX ST Compact/Remote CB,
Sirius Satellite Radio,
S&W .38 Spl Laser grip (hot pink),
TRD sway bar (black widow style),
Debadged except TRD sticker,
Roxy Sticker
TS Tank Top
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Wish list:
Horn Blaster train horn, ARB rear bumper (if they ever make one) or line-x rear bumper, Color matched fender flares, Underseat storage of some sort, Winch (if i can ever afford one), Sun roof! Going broke thinking about it.
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I need a new word of the month people!
High octane burns slower but cleaner...it allows the computer to put more timing in. When boosting or running a high compression engine, high octane is required. Not sure if your pants seat is properly calibrated...probably not. Many people claim idle quality goes up with "high" octane. 93 octane is a joke...back in the day, you could get 108. You can buy 100 CAM4, but that would be a real waste in a Tundra. 100LL is available at the local small airport, but don't get caught putting it in your street ride...yes, I'm buying this for my airboat....and don't use it in a vehicle with cats as you will promptly trash them.
Rule of thumb for iron-head engines: 10 octane points per point of compression.
Aluminum heads let you run more compression on same octane.
Chevy iron heads are more forgiving than many others. You can stretch the top rule.
FYI...some of the hi-po engines from the muscle car era...think '67 L88...required 108 octane from the factory. I had a 400 WT Pontiac with 10.5:1 compression that would ping on 93. It really needed 100 octane to be happy.
Pigs will eat cheesecake and my Tundra will be happy on 87.
You feel it runs better because knock sensor does not retard the timing as much. However, these engines are not really tuned for it. There is not enough performance gained. There also aren't any more detergents than in RUG as far as I know, so why waste the money?
When I got my 2000 I ran 93 for a couple years then dropped to 97. It runs every bit as good.
As has been said, more octane slows down the flame spread to avoid detonation so if you don't have a detonation problem the lower octane will give you great power.
What makes the difference is the quality of fuel. I run chevron because techron has been shown to be one of the best detergents. Years ago I ran shell but found out it was a dirty gas. I never go into a no name station unless I am going out of town and desperate cause you have no clue what you are using.
171k on mine and when I put my foot in it, it goes
93 octane or not
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