I just purchased a set of adjustable Bilstein 5100 shocks to install on my 2005 2WD DC. I can't decided which adjustment setting I should choose in order to lift the front end a just a bit to bring it to level or maybe leave a slight tilt toward the front. In addition to replacing the fronts, I will also be installing Bilstein 5100 in the rear also, so I'm not sure if that has to be considered when choosing the front adjustment settings.
I like to hear from some of you with 2WD DC Tundras to get a real life experience on what settings you chose to get the kind of lift I'm looking for.
if you are going with nothing out back then 2nd to the top will bring you level. I have had mine on for 6 months and it hasn't "settled" at all.
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2006 DC SR5
Bilstein 5100s F&R
Wheelers 1.5" AAL
285 Nittos on OEM Alloys
Flowmaster Delta 40
LUND Genesis Tri-Fold Tonneau
WADE in-Channel Visors
Lil Boom under the seat compliments of RF
Full LED conversion
Nothing too fancy, just better than stock!
Yeah, those springs are so stiff, and lifting the truck really puts some pressure on there. There is NO settling of the shocks. These aren't Honda Civic's! lol
On my access cab, I went all the way up on the front and now the front is higher. Putting 1.5" blocks in the back next, they are shipped and on the way.
__________________ 2006 Tundra Access Cab V8 - TRD
16x8 Konig Countersteer w/Nitto TerraGrapplers 285/75R16
Bilstein 5100 front/rear, Wheelers 1.5" rear blocks
Dynomax cat-back w/Cherry Bomb Pro muffler
Pioneer headunit w/Alphasonic amp and Sochse speakers
HID retrofit in the works, Acura TL bi-xenon projectors w/BMW ZKW lenses
Truxedo Truxport
Trail FX black steps bars
There is NO settling of the shocks. These aren't Honda Civic's! lol
Bullcrap. I had settling on both my 2000 and my 2006 double cab. You're putting additional pressure on the spring with the 5100s and the spring will adjust accordingly by settling. I've settled about an inch. I was about a quarter inch rearward rake when I put them on, and have about .25 inch forward rake.
If others haven't had 5100s settle, good for them, but it sounds like their running AALs, and that is changing the rake on the truck, therefore the weight on each axle. I don't know if it would make a difference (probably minor) as I don't have AAL. I only my 5100 measurements.
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2006 Tundra DC, 80K, K&N Drop-in, Spintech Truck/RV Muffler, BedRug, Bilstein 5100s, VSE Sub
Previously 2000 Tundra, 94K, K&N Drop-in, Spintech Truck/RV Muffler, Hellwig, Bilstein 5100s, 2005 Sequoia Center Console Installed and looking awesome! - TOTALLED
1999 UZJ100 Land Cruiser, 225K, new carpet, no major Mods planned; it's the wifeys
1987 FJ60 Land Cruiser, 209K, K&N Drop-in, Jacobs Ignition, Jacobs Wires, Dynomax Muffler and Hi-Flow Cat, Electric Fuel Pump Conversion, Rebuilt Carb, Rebuilt Combination Manifold, SS EGR Tube, Someday...A Lift
Proud Member of the CBTMA
having rake doesn't change the load on an axle. My 5100s haven't settled at all and they have been on for just over 6 months. 5100s are shocks not springs! you are using your oem springs (if they are going to settle they most likely already have), if you are getting settling (especially an inch!) then you may have faulty shocks.
__________________
2006 DC SR5
Bilstein 5100s F&R
Wheelers 1.5" AAL
285 Nittos on OEM Alloys
Flowmaster Delta 40
LUND Genesis Tri-Fold Tonneau
WADE in-Channel Visors
Lil Boom under the seat compliments of RF
Full LED conversion
Nothing too fancy, just better than stock!
I've had my 5100's on two different Tundras, both times I set them on top notch and have never had any settling what so ever.
Those who think their truck is settling are probably letting the truck down off the jack stands after finishing installation and measuring right then and there. You need to atleast move the truck about 20' to get the suspension to return to a comfortable position. Any time you jack an indepent suspension vehicle up then put it back down, it will sit higher than before you jacked it up. Its just how the wheel/tire moves within its wheel travel. I wouldnt exactly call this settling.
I'm a little confused by the term "AAL'. I'm not sure what exactly it means but I see it tossed around a lot, especially when on the subject of replacing shocks... Could someone enlighten me?
Also, if I go with the middle or second notch from the top, will me putting 5100s on the rear negate the lift I achieved in the front? I'm unsure if I will get a lift out of the 5100s in the rear if I don't use spaces/blocks.
I'm a little confused by the term "AAL'. I'm not sure what exactly it means but I see it tossed around a lot, especially when on the subject of replacing shocks... Could someone enlighten me?
AAL = Add A Leaf
adding a performance leaf to your leaf spring stack in the rear to give added lift.
__________________ 2006 Tundra Access Cab V8 - TRD
16x8 Konig Countersteer w/Nitto TerraGrapplers 285/75R16
Bilstein 5100 front/rear, Wheelers 1.5" rear blocks
Dynomax cat-back w/Cherry Bomb Pro muffler
Pioneer headunit w/Alphasonic amp and Sochse speakers
HID retrofit in the works, Acura TL bi-xenon projectors w/BMW ZKW lenses
Truxedo Truxport
Trail FX black steps bars
__________________
2006 DC SR5
Bilstein 5100s F&R
Wheelers 1.5" AAL
285 Nittos on OEM Alloys
Flowmaster Delta 40
LUND Genesis Tri-Fold Tonneau
WADE in-Channel Visors
Lil Boom under the seat compliments of RF
Full LED conversion
Nothing too fancy, just better than stock!
with aal the payload increase is pretty noticable, i use my truck for work and load the truck a lot, aal most definatly helps a lot. its a little more bouncy when empty, i would probably go with a block if you dont have ur truck loaded most of the time.
this is my opinion and my own personnal experience.
i have an 02 trd limited 4X2 with 5100 shocks up front and some 285/75/16. The 5100 in front are set on top 5th setting and the rear has no lift at all. When I park it at a slight downhill truck sits perfectly level. I know if I would of listen to everyone in here to put a one inch block in the rear I would of hated the results cuse maybe the rear would be slightly higher. If you have a TRD model set it on the max lift and no lift in rear trust me youll love the results. If you have a non TRD model use the 4th setting. TRD MODELS HAVE MORE AZZZZZ UPP LOOK THAN THE NON TRD MODELS.!!!! U want pics of my truck ill email em to you!!
On a level surface my truck sits slightly higher in the front i mean slightly it looks bad azzz with the 285/75/16. Only problem is that the tranny/torque converter is messedd upp!! My tundra let me down when I need it the most!! It only has 117 K milesss big pile of kraaap!
trds sit the exact same as every other tundra, just have different shocks and different spring rates in the back.... all in your head yo
__________________
2006 DC SR5
Bilstein 5100s F&R
Wheelers 1.5" AAL
285 Nittos on OEM Alloys
Flowmaster Delta 40
LUND Genesis Tri-Fold Tonneau
WADE in-Channel Visors
Lil Boom under the seat compliments of RF
Full LED conversion
Nothing too fancy, just better than stock!
So it looks like if I go with the 4th notch on the front 5100s and leave the rear springs alone and just replace the rear shocks with 5100s, I should be pretty much level? Maybe the 3rd (middle setting) will get me a slight forward tilt?
Just for the record my 2005 2wd DC is a non-TRD model if that matters as far as how much of an effect the Bilstein 5100s will make.
I have an access cab (which is lighter than yours), but I have mine set on the middle setting with an add-a-leaf and 5100s in the rear. There is slight forward rake, I beat on these shocks pretty hard and they take it well