Buildthread- 2000 Tundra suspension rebuild

[Scorp979]

after a few busy years, (marriage, couple kids, stuff like that), I am finally getting back into really paying attention to my 2000 Tundra SR5 4wd. It has a few issues but after 140k the engine and tranny are still top notch. I am going to document the work I do and am very open to criticism and suggestions. Right now the only mods I have done include an Eaton LSD in the rear and I had a gibson cat back but it wasn't stainless and only lasted a few years. My current project is upgrading the suspension. I also had 1 crossmember and the rear leaf spring brackets rottes out so those are being replaced. On the shopping list,

1. Replacement brackets and crossmember
2. Deaver 10 pack leaf springs
3. Bilstein 5100's all around
4. Performance brake lines to allow for the lift in the back and an upgrade on the front.
5. 1 1/4 poly lift block for above the 5100 in the front. This will allow for me to get the lift I want without fully maxing the 5100.
6. T.C. Steering rack bushings
7. Rebuilt steering rack from steeringrack.com
8. Downey HD sway bar links
9. 1" lift blocks for the rear leafs to give me 2" in the rear total
10. 1" dif drop from Wheelers, ordered a bunch of stuff from them. Seem like good guys to deal with.

All this should get me back on the road and then later this summer I would like to add Camburg UCA's and replace the entire exhaust, headers, high flow cats, y, and dual's out the back. A brake rebuild for front and rear is also in the near future. It is memorial day weekend, I have 3 days off and had a buddy come up for the 3 days to help and unfortunately the only parts that made it here in time were the front 5100's. So I am writing this post to help kill the time untill some parts come in. I am going insane waiting.

Here are some pics so far.

[highlevel]

What was your process for cleaning and painting the frame?

[Scorp979]

I would have really liked to blast it but that wasn't an option so it was grinder with wire wheel, various wire brushes and hand sanding. A lot of time and elbow grease but most of the bad rust was around the mounting surfaces for the rotted brackets. I cleaned it twice with degreaser and alcohol. The paint is a 2 part product by SEM. Very impressed with it for this type of application. I'll post some details on the product but I'm headed out the door for a while. Thanks for the interest.

[highlevel]

Originally Posted by Scorp979

I would have really liked to blast it but that wasn't an option so it was grinder with wire wheel, various wire brushes and hand sanding. A lot of time and elbow grease but most of the bad rust was around the mounting surfaces for the rotted brackets. I cleaned it twice with degreaser and alcohol. The paint is a 2 part product by SEM. Very impressed with it for this type of application. I'll post some details on the product but I'm headed out the door for a while. Thanks for the interest.

Looking good! At least it was pretty easy access even though the reason for being there does not sound very good. If I had mine apart like that I would be doing a serious undercoating! I would love to see the specs on the material.

I want to do undercoating to mine especially after reading posts about what is happening to some of these trucks... and your springs Holy *&*^%*$@$%^... I am very glad I don't live in the North / East or by salt water. I have seen what both can do to metal.

I have checked under mine. It is only a few years old and I can see rust starting on the rear diff and the leaf springs. Not sure exactly what or how I will tackle it. I have an Airlift system and the bolts that attach the upper brackets look like your leaf springs... after only 4 months .

If and when I start I will probably get all into it and want the entire thing done but I have limited time and access. A lift would certainly be handy .

[NHtoyman]

Hey fellow NH Tundra owner.

[2000tundra2wd]

man, i sure would love to take off my bed and clean my frame like that. i live in louisiana and dont have to worry about rust, but i would still like to protect it.

[Derek24]

Taking the bed off will make putting on those rear shocks a hell of alot easier LOL!!! Looks good man, can't wait to see your truck all finished. What tires and wheels you going for?

[Scorp979]

Boscawen, that's a stones throw, I'm right in Concord. I am not doing tires and rims quite yet. The MT's that I have now still have a lot of meat on them so I can going to keep those as winter tires. As soon as I financially recover from the suspension I am going to do a summer set of tires. Not sure what for tires yet, wide 33's probably. The rims are procomp 1089's. Hopefully I can do this in July but realistically the exhaust and UCA's are a bigger priority.

[DevinSixtySeven]

That's a familiar sight ...

The original hangers and bump stops from my truck are sitting in the scrap box right now, and I'm building a new set of everything at the moment. It wasn't in as bad shape as your truck, but it was getting there...the real reason was I bent one of the rear hangers.

The only change I would make to your list is NOT to install any additional lift device in conjunction with the 5100 kit. It will damage the upper ball joint, and it will not have the effect on the spring and shock you're assuming it will. I can explain more, in painful detail, if you like . The 5100 on its own is already designed by Bilstein to do what you're probably thinking.

Or...you can save the poly blocks until after you install the Camburg arms...might work then, you'll have to test it.

Which crossmember are you replacing? The bumper piece, or the X-shaped brace that holds the spare tire?

-Sean

[dsrtrcr01]

I was thinking the same thing. Leave the spacer lift off on the front. Also I was wondering if you are installing the Deaver pack in the back why are you going to run a block? Can't you just ask Deaver to work in another inch of lift? I know when I order Deavers for my off road trucks I ask for different size lifts to be added in.

[Scorp979]

Okay, so for the most part everyone agrees that the 5100 still perform well with the lift maxed out? If so then I will take your advice and hold onto the poly blocks. I didn't know Deaver would work with you that easily. I ordered my leafs from Wheelers and the blocks and never really questioned anything custom. They will be here in the next couple of days so its probably to late to change them. Since I'll have some extra 1.25 spacers what is the max lift from this truck if you add the Camburg UCA's and the downey boot upgrade along with the dif drop which is going in now. Is 3" too much?

[Scorp979]

Update: Me and a friend got the front broken down this weekend. Steering rack and sway bar/linkage is all out. Rotors and calipers are off. The rotors are out to be surfaced but that's all for the brakes for now. The front has no rot which is really good but there is a thin layer of rust popping off almost all the original frame paint. No huge amounts of damage but a lot of work this week to get the rust cleaned off and get everything sealed up good.

Some pics:
5100's installed on top setting and new Downey sway bar linkage. What a difference between the Downey's and stock.

I also got some news today that my new brackets will be here on Thursday and the big suspension order could be in by Friday. It might be a big reassembly weekend!!!

[Scorp979]

Still waiting on parts but I'll throw a few new pics up. I got the front cleaned up a lot but I will say, there is definitely a rust issue with these trucks. I had no major rot in the front but all of the remaining paint had a layer of rust underneath it and just flaked off. I really want to keep this truck long term as a toy so I expect to have to strip it to the frame and have it cleaned and powdercoated within the next 5 years. What I am doing now is realistically only a band-aid. Although for that cost a new frame is only a little over $4,000.

Anyhow, I put in one of the front shocks and I did get in the brackets for the rear frame. Hopefully I'll see the UPS guy on Monday for the rest. Also I picked up a spring rebuild kit for the drum brakes. A whopping $12 but what a great little kit.

[NHtoyman]

Looks good. Did you clean up by the front bumper mounts? If not open your hood and look down and you can see where the front part of the frame is that connects the front bumper beam. Some get really bad there.

Do you have you front 5100's at full lift? Should be easy putting in the rears!!

[2000tundra2wd]

can you do mine next