CEL came on and code read P0333 Knock Sensor Bank 2. Tightened Gas cap, however noticed that I am now running at a higher RPM than normal, 3000 @ 65mph (normal is 2100 @ 65mph). Dealer wants $500 + to replace sensor. Could the engine go into "safe mode"- retard timing due to a loose cap? How do you clear the codes (i.e. remove negative battery wire)? Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
I replied in your other post, but I'll do so here in case you read
this one first. It isn't recommended that you clear the code
by disconnecting the battery as it can clear the memory in the
computer and it will have to relearn your driving habits.
I guess my question would be how do you know what the code is?
Generally you should be able to clear the code using the device
you used to read the code. Places like Auto Zone will read your
trouble code for free and clear the code for you. Good luck.
I suppose the dealer charged you $99 for a diagnostic check? I have
my own code reader. I bought it when my wife owned a Ford Escort
as it kept popping up codes. It comes in handy, mainly if you do your
own work. I've used it a couple of times on the Tundra for when a
couple of the O2 sensors went bad. Mine cost me under $50.00
Have ya ever cleaned the Throttle Body? Might not help but for the price of the repair i would give it a shot? I would also clean the MAF Sensor while i was doing the Throttle Body. BTW finding a cheap part for a newer Tundra will probably not happen too often but good luck! Have you tried a op tier gasoline? This might also be a waste of $$$ but for the price of that Sensor and Labor i would experiment a little!
guess Labor is main thing driving price up on replacement? Part is only 150.00 if you could DIY?
pdf below shows why the Labor would be so much and it starts on page 65 i believe and if it were me i would change both if i were to DIY! just to make sure i did not remove manifold twice!
Diagnostic check was $40. As for cleaning the trottle body and MAF Sensor, am going to try that tonight however would that cause the CEL to go on and put teh engine into safe mode?
The only way cleaning these two items would set off the CEL is
if you forget to reconnect an electrical connector or damage
something such as the MAF sensor while doing it. I did it with
my wife's Santa Fe and after starting it the CEL came on. I looked
around with a flashlight and found that I hadn't reconnected
one of the connectors.
I'll be doing my Tundra's in July. Fun times, fun times!
PS. Make sure whatever cleaner you use states that it's safe
to use with oxygen sensors and catalytic converters. I used
Valvoline Throttle Body Cleaner and another brand MAF sensor
cleaner. Good luck.
Diagnostic check was $40. As for cleaning the trottle body and MAF Sensor, am going to try that tonight however would that cause the CEL to go on and put teh engine into safe mode?
If done wrong anything is possible but i think if you follow the post and use the correct products and use them properly it should not cause a safe mode issue! your diagnostic charge seemed low, i have read where people have paid 80 bucks!
Thanks guys, but I was asking if a dirty throttle body/MAF sensor would cause my CEL to go and produce the original code of P0333- Knock sensor which put the truck into safe mode. How can you get the truck out of safe mode?
I can't answer either question. I do know that the throttle
body and MAF sensor do have codes of their own, although
not for being dirty, meaning it's not going to read "Dirty Throttle
Body" or "Dirty MAF Sensor."
But, what I wanted to tell you is that if you do clean your throttle
body by the way some people suggest which is just disconnecting
the hose and spraying it down and then running the engine, plan on
doing an oil change in the next couple of hundred miles. I do mines
by totally disconnecting the throttle body and cleaning it down with
the spray and a toothbrush plus a bunch of rags. You can really
get it clean that way and you don't have the liquid being sucked in
to the engine. Again, that isn't a big problem if you change the oil
soon after doing it.
Well $550 later determined that it was a rodent (squirrel, rat, mouse, etc...) that decided to take up residence under my intake manifold and chew all of the wiring which in turn made the CEL go on with the Knock Sensor code. This also put the truck into safe mode, making it run rich. I will now read threads on how to eliminate rodents from living in your TUNDRA!
Those little SOBs!! My suggestion would be to catch one and
chop its head off. Then put its head on a popsicle stick so his
fellow rodents will heed the warning!
The same thing happened to my wife's car, but it didn't throw a
CEL code. It affected the shifting of the vehicle. The guy
there suggested mothballs on the engine cover to keep the little
bastards away.
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Well $550 later determined that it was a rodent (squirrel, rat, mouse, etc...) that decided to take up residence under my intake manifold and chew all of the wiring which in turn made the CEL go on with the Knock Sensor code. This also put the truck into safe mode, making it run rich. I will now read threads on how to eliminate rodents from living in your TUNDRA!
WOW - dude that is phoqued!! That is the first time I have heard that one.
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Highwaylizard 2004 Tundra Double Cab Limited Edition 4.7 liter V8, four speed automatic, four wheel drive, testing platform for fuel economy, self designed cold air intake using ram air principle, Fitch Fuel Catalyst, Aero Turbine, "Foolie Exhaust" from Aero Turbine back, True Flow Intake with True Flow foam filter, Mobile 1 in the engine, K&N oil filter, Royal Purple in the differentials. 3:91 gears in the front (Thanks Cajuntundra!) and rear (Thanks Nytrousboy!) differentials, Toyo H/T Open Country tires. testis amotio per pera
CEL P0333 Knock Sensor Bank 2- HELP
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