Question Rear brake conversion kit

[Anthony C]

I'm another new guy looking for answers, and trying to save a dollar. Long story short, I was having fade problems with my brakes. I put new pads on from NAPA, 3 months later. I started having problems with my rotors. I replaced the rotors from NAPA $100.00 ea. the same style pads, 3 months later, rotor problems. NAPA warranted the rotors. This time new rotors, cheap pads, turned the drums and replace the rear shoes. 3 months later, the drums out of round. I replaced the rear drums, good stopping power! Drums out of round, out of the box. NAPA turned the drums for free, the stopping power not as good any more. Either I go to Toyota for drums, or I convert to rear disc. Are these conversion kits worth the money??? How much is a conversion kit? Any replies are welcome. Thanking you in advance, Anthony

[tinik]

Rear brake disk conversion will be very expansive, and in my opinion: drum brakes work better then conversion kits (even thou they look cool) on our tundra.

[2000tundra2wd]

Tundra Racing-Rear Brake Conversion Kit

that looks quite nice

[highlevel]

Originally Posted by Anthony C

I'm another new guy looking for answers, and trying to save a dollar. Long story short, I was having fade problems with my brakes. I put new pads on from NAPA, 3 months later. I started having problems with my rotors. I replaced the rotors from NAPA $100.00 ea. the same style pads, 3 months later, rotor problems. NAPA warranted the rotors. This time new rotors, cheap pads, turned the drums and replace the rear shoes. 3 months later, the drums out of round. I replaced the rear drums, good stopping power! Drums out of round, out of the box. NAPA turned the drums for free, the stopping power not as good any more. Either I go to Toyota for drums, or I convert to rear disc. Are these conversion kits worth the money??? How much is a conversion kit? Any replies are welcome. Thanking you in advance, Anthony

Seems like an interesting series of defects. I would ask... How are your driving habits? Are you a fast driver who brakes real hard or a mellow driver? Do you ride your brakes? Do you drive a lot of hilly roads? Are you carrying any loads and if so how much and how often? Is your vehicle stock, or lifted? Size of tires? Also wondering if your proportioning valve(s) are working properly and if the brake fluid has been changed and all the air bled out of the system. Just wondering if you have looked at these possibilities along with manufacturer defects. You may have already done or checked everything.

I am not trying to imply anything here just trying to help. I like to go with the simple things/fixes first while going through the process of elimination. That brake conversion kit seems pretty spendy and Tinik could have a really good point about the rear drums. I was thinking of doing a similar change with my rear brakes and spoke with a brake installer who said it was not a very good idea for trucks... unless you are racing.

[escondidotundra]

The problem with these trucks is that the pad is too small. That is a problem with most Japanese vehicles. The pad is half the length of most American cars. I used to do multiple 100+ mph stops in a row when road racing my 5.0. I still drive my work van like a maniac Chevy 2500, when going 80+ if someone cuts me off and I have to slam on the brakes going downhill, the brakes hold up. No fade, no jutter, no warped rotors.

The first week i had my Tundra, actually it was my wifes, the rotors warped. Toyota warrantied it out because of the TSB, but they warped again a week or so later.

I also have a G35 Sport 07. Try to slam on the brakes when doing 100 mph, slow down to 65 cuz some a$$hole cuts you off. Those rotors jutter immediately, then everytime you stop fast they jutter.

The dealer blames you. It's your driving, you shouldn't drive that fast, you shouldn't ride your brakes, blah, blah, blah. How come my $5000 Mustang didn't have Jutter? How come my 94 Ford van didn't have Jutter? How come my $200 84 ford Mustang didn't have Jutter? The pads on all of those vehicles are about twice as long as the pads on either of my current Japanese vehicles.

These Jap vehicles have great rotors, but when you concentrate all that clamping force with such a small pad, it overheats the pad quickly. This causes the surface of the pad to glaze over. Then it fades so you have to press the pedal harder causing more heat, more glazing, more fade, then finally the rotor overheats and warps.

If someone could just adapt a different caliper which uses a larger pad, you could leave the rotor alone. Just need to find a caliper which is close, then cut out an adapter plate. Use an off the shelf inexpensive Ford or Chevy truck or van caliper. It sure would be nice to have good brakes on both my vehicles. That's the only downside these otherwise high quality vehicles have.

[Scorp979]

You need to make sure your using the E brake to adjust those rear shoes also. If they turned the drums down and you did not adjust the shoes it makes sense that you would not have as much stopping power, although these trucks are made to take most of the braking in the front.

[mcarthurp]

If your truck is an 00-03 you need to upgrade to larger calipers and brake pads via the 04-06 models.

Pat

[Anthony C]

I thank you all for your input. I think I'm on to something. I've never had trouble with my brakes until. I put a set of pads on the front from NAPA (medium grade), about 3 months later I noticed a vibration in my steering wheel when applying the brakes. I go to NAPA, buy two premium rotors, and another set of pads. I had the drums turned, and replaced the shoes just because. 3 Months later, I start having problems with the drums. So I go to NAPA, and buy two premium drums. Right out of the box, and they're out of round. Now the rotors are just starting to show signs of being warpped. First I feel my calipers have a problem, Napa is going to warranty the rotors and drums. I'm going to Toyota for the rotors,and drums. I'm going to replace the calipers as well. I do pull a two place snowmobile trailer, to carry my 4 wheelers. Any replies are welcome, Anthony

[highlevel]

Originally Posted by Anthony C

I thank you all for your input. I think I'm on to something. I've never had trouble with my brakes until. I put a set of pads on the front from NAPA (medium grade), about 3 months later I noticed a vibration in my steering wheel when applying the brakes. I go to NAPA, buy two premium rotors, and another set of pads. I had the drums turned, and replaced the shoes just because. 3 Months later, I start having problems with the drums. So I go to NAPA, and buy two premium drums. Right out of the box, and they're out of round. Now the rotors are just starting to show signs of being warpped. First I feel my calipers have a problem, Napa is going to warranty the rotors and drums. I'm going to Toyota for the rotors,and drums. I'm going to replace the calipers as well. I do pull a two place snowmobile trailer, to carry my 4 wheelers. Any replies are welcome, Anthony

I don't know much but it sounds like you may be getting butter steel from Napa.

[GORILLA]

hi i think the older tundra's 2000 2001, had issue's. i bet those guy's have the answer your looking for.
i know my 05 stop's great w/drum's in the rear.
i wonder if the older tundra's also has a different master cylinder in any way. smaller less fluid, etc.

i wonder if you could fit a 05 or 06 front rotor & caliper on the older tundra's.
if yes, i bet you might be able to get a used set from a salvage yard.

or a trd kit, brembo, etc -but that to is very expensive.
as far as the rear conversion kit,
i don't think since you have front braking issue's putting a rear disc conversion kit will solve you problem.

i wonder if you post in the braking section here might help.

where are all these old member's that were ase toyota mechanic's when you need them.
when i 1st came on , there were several member's that always helped.
1 guy used to say NO CHARGE!
i thought that was funny.

on a serious note, i truely hope you get this resolved,
gorilla

[rpm2day]

You gave the solution to your problem without realizing it. "Cheap Pads". (sorry they snagged you for rotors too, but I'ts their job to sell parts remember) I've owned a few Toyota trucks and Asian cars. The rotors and drums will easily overheat and warp if you use cheap pads or shoes. They claim to last forever but don't shed the heat. After a lot of hair pulling I just buy oem pads and shoes from the dealer. Not exciting but they don't overheat.

[highlevel]

I had an 03 Access Cab and had not brake issues until I needed new front brakes at 65,000 miles. My local tire place (Les Schwab) checked them and told me I needed new brakes. They replaced the rotors and pads. After that my brakes were not the same and I was contemplating changing out the parts that they put on with new "upgraded" parts. They told me they used OEM comparable stuff but I was not very happy. I crashed that truck so end of problem... not really the way I would have liked but...

Going to Toyota for those parts might actually be a good direction, or some other higher quality distributer/manufacturer.

[rpm2day]

Gotta agree with a lot of what Escondidotundra says here. I had an 80 Chevy Silverado "Big 10" 2WD bought new. Long story short, bed and trailer full of green firewood going down a hill with both feet on the brakes, tranny in 1st, pulling on the steering wheel for leverage and the brakes pouring smoke I got it to stop. We let the brakes cool off for a while (6'er of Hieneken worth) and then drove 100 miles home. No warping. I never turned those rotors in 120,000 miles. I only sold because I kept getting it stuck. 2wd=1wd when you're in the sh##t!

[Quentin18]

When I got my truck it had the wobble problem with braking, ended up being warped rotors. Found out later that these earlyer Tundras have some issues with the braking. Well I drove the truck with the wobbles till my pads were basically done, about 90k miles. Took my truck to my friends shop, had him turn the rotors and replace the pads. The pads he installed(dont remember the brand)are freakin thick, there like 2wice as think as normal pads are, and there like a 2 piece construction. The first piece, the inner piece. Is made up of what typical pads are made of, copper brass steel wool, and held together with a resin. But the outside layer is ceramic. He told me they would last me another 150k miles easy. As soon as I got everything installed, after driving a bit I noticed how much more braking power I had. I enjoyed it quite a bit.Well since then ive put on a little more than 3k miles to the new pads and turned rotors, and so far no wobbles or anyother problems.
My suggestion is to atleast go to a Toyota dealer and just see what they think abou it, Or another shop. Dont have to buy anything just see what they reccomend.

[Rrumbler]

Get your stock replacement parts from the dealer; they cost more, but you stand a far better chance of getting good quality, properly fitting parts, instead of some "who knows where it's made", oddball stuff. Now, if you are going to upgrade to an aftermarket setup like SSBC, EBC, or other performance gig, then use their parts - they are made to work together, just like the stock manufacturer supplied parts do. We went through this scenario with a Honda we had; son took it to Midas for brakes when he had it with him at college, and had nothing but trouble, no matter how many times they honored the warranty. He came home for a week or so, and I took it to Honda, and they replaced all of the Midas stuff (ouch in the wallet), and voila!, no more problems. That changed my way of looking at this subject.