I changed all the driveline fluids in the DC today. I'd done the diffs and transfer case once before, at maybe 20,000 miles or so. I just tripped 56,000 tonight while test driving it. This was the first change of the transmission fluid (and filter). And, I'm happy to report, the tranny fluid was bright red and nice and clean.
I did end up overfilling it a bit. Its maybe a pint over the top mark, after its all nice and warmed up. What do y'all think? Should I try to drain a pint out of it? Or just leave it be?
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MrBeanley
Glenville, New York
2004 Tundra Double Cab 4x4
nice, i'm workin on doing diff and transfer case tomorrow... i went with lucas, hope it works out well
i think you'd be alright to leave it in there, IME it's better to have to much than too little, which is obvious in every way... excess fluid will probably work it's way out over time
I changed all the driveline fluids in the DC today. I'd done the diffs and transfer case once before, at maybe 20,000 miles or so. I just tripped 56,000 tonight while test driving it. This was the first change of the transmission fluid (and filter). And, I'm happy to report, the tranny fluid was bright red and nice and clean.
I did end up overfilling it a bit. Its maybe a pint over the top mark, after its all nice and warmed up. What do y'all think? Should I try to drain a pint out of it? Or just leave it be?
Your transmission had a filter? Could you elaborate? I have not changed mine - definitely due, but my understanding is that there are no filters in the transmission.
Thanks
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Highwaylizard 2004 Tundra Double Cab Limited Edition 4.7 liter V8, four speed automatic, four wheel drive, testing platform for fuel economy, self designed cold air intake using ram air principle, Fitch Fuel Catalyst, Aero Turbine, "Foolie Exhaust" from Aero Turbine back, True Flow Intake with True Flow foam filter, Mobile 1 in the engine, K&N oil filter, Royal Purple in the differentials. 3:91 gears in the front (Thanks Cajuntundra!) and rear (Thanks Nytrousboy!) differentials, Toyo H/T Open Country tires. testis amotio per pera
Oh, there's a filter in there, to be certain. Its really little more than a fine mesh screen inside a filter housing, but its a filter, alright.
I ordered the replacement filter from Conicelli Toyota. It was about $45 or so, plus shipping. Replacing the filter, once you have the tranny pan down, is very easy to do. I also used the Toyota branded "FIPG" to redo the gasket on the tranny pan. I think I could have just as easily used red Permatex, but decided to just buy the Toyota stuff.
There were only two "tough" parts to this particular job: 1) Getting the dipstick tube apart to remove the pan (and back together); and 2) getting the old FIPG off of the stupid pan and tranny!
Once you drain the transmission fluid out of the pan, take down the 19, 10-mm pan bolts. GENTLY pry the corners of the pan down from the tranny - the FIPG seals it there pretty good, so it will take some coaxing. Take care not to gouge either the pan or the bottom of the tranny.
Once the pan is loose, you need to work it back and forth a bit to get the damn dip stick tube to separate. Follow the dipstick tube from the tranny pan upward toward the right-side header, and you'll see where the piece of tube that comes out of the pan connects to the upper part of the tube. Twist. Pull. Twist. Pull. Twist. Pull. Then, pull and twist. And it comes apart.
I used some degreaser solvent to clean out the inside of the tranny pan, once it was separated. Then I used a razor blade to scrape the old FIPG off the pan. I can only hope the rest of the truck holds up as well as this stuff does, 'cuase, damn!. Once all the scraping was done, I rinsed and carefully cleaned out the tranny pan again to make sure all the old FIPG shreds were out of there. Then, back under the truck with the razor to scrape the FIPG off the bottom of the tranny. My hands still hurt!
The filter is held in place by four, 10-mm hex-head bolts. TAKE CARE when you remove the bolts, because the four are not the same. The two, rear-most bolts are identical, but the middle bolt and the forward bolt are of different lengths. You'll want to make sure you get them back in the proper position.
Run a bead of FIPG around the tranny pan, then carefully slide it back into place. Now, twist and push, twist and push, twist and push, twist and push to get the lower dip stick tube back into the upper tube. I managed to get the tube back together enough that I could get a couple of pan bolts started. Then (sorry, Lizzard, no offense intended) I took my dead-blow hammer to the bottom of the tube to get the thing back in the rest of the way.
Finish up by replacing all of the pan bolts, first finger-tight. Then, using a technique I learned years ago when I worked in a shop, I went around the pan tightening every other bolt, but only just snugly. After getting around the whole pan, go back and get the bolts you missed. Again, don't crank the bolts down, just snuggle them in there.
My rig ended up taking just about 6 quarts of Type T-IV ATF (Toyota Brand) to get her topped back off - well, as I said, a bit more than topped! I added three quarts, started the truck, ran it thru the gears, then checked the fluid. I made sure the level was to the top notch of the "Cold" area, then ran the truck up some relatively steep hill roads around my place. Brought it home, checked it, and added some to get her to the top notch on the "hot" side. I then ran it back out around the block, up some steep hills again and sepped on it a few times to get her good and hot. When I got home and re-checked, it was about a pint high, as I mentioned. I crawled under the rig with my drop light and everything looked nice and dry. I'll double-check all that tomorrow morning, before I get kicked back out of the garage!!
The removal of the old gasket was the most time consuming part of this. None of it was paticularly difficult, just time consuming and quite messy.
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MrBeanley
Glenville, New York
2004 Tundra Double Cab 4x4
On my 05 Tundra DC there is not a dip stick for trans fluid. No way to check (easily). At about 30,000 miles (64000 now) I called the Toyota dealer and they said you dont check it nor change it. That sounded bit odd to me but I thought Oh well less to do. But now I really think I need to change the fluid as my truck is getting up there in mileage. Should I take it to a shop or is there something I can do at home? I believe they also said it is filled with Syn. fluid, sound right?
On my 05 Tundra DC there is not a dip stick for trans fluid. No way to check (easily). At about 30,000 miles (64000 now) I called the Toyota dealer and they said you dont check it nor change it. That sounded bit odd to me but I thought Oh well less to do. But now I really think I need to change the fluid as my truck is getting up there in mileage. Should I take it to a shop or is there something I can do at home? I believe they also said it is filled with Syn. fluid, sound right?
There is another thread going regarding the 05 - 06 tranny, and lack of dipstick. If you check some of the posts there are some maintenance suggestions and some PDF files from the service manual.
I have an 06 and will definitely change out the transmission fluid before I reach 90,000 miles. I am at 61,000 now.
2006 DC, SR5, 4.7L, 5 speed, 4WD, LSD,
Silver Sky Metallic, Keyless Entry, Tow Package
Westin wheel to wheel step bars
Rackit (powder coated)
Leer 100 w/Windoors
Air lift Ride Control w/Quick Shot and Onboard Air
Pop & Lock
Bedrug
Slide Master bed-slide
Bilstein 5100s (middle notch)
Wheeler's AAL
Toyo 265/70/17 10 ply (back on stock wheels)
Scangauge II
Waiting to be installed:
MB Quart Speakers
Eclipse Amp
TC steering rack bushings
TC diff drop
Downey end links
Kartec CV boots
Wish List:
Spidertrax
SS exhaust system
HD front bumber (Reuenal or ARB)
Mile Marker Winch
Changing professions or purchasing a service truck so I can make this one all about fun!
i asked my mech about a flush when i bought mine. he said the fluid was/is BRIGHT red and no need to worry about it. i'm thinking about a drain/fill anyways....
Run a bead of FIPG around the tranny pan, then carefully slide it back into place. Now, twist and push, twist and push, twist and push, twist and push to get the lower dip stick tube back into the upper tube. I managed to get the tube back together enough that I could get a couple of pan bolts started. Then (sorry, Lizzard, no offense intended) I took my dead-blow hammer to the bottom of the tube to get the thing back in the rest of the way.
Mr Beanley if the members here begin referring to me as "hammer man" I will forever hold you responsible.
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Highwaylizard 2004 Tundra Double Cab Limited Edition 4.7 liter V8, four speed automatic, four wheel drive, testing platform for fuel economy, self designed cold air intake using ram air principle, Fitch Fuel Catalyst, Aero Turbine, "Foolie Exhaust" from Aero Turbine back, True Flow Intake with True Flow foam filter, Mobile 1 in the engine, K&N oil filter, Royal Purple in the differentials. 3:91 gears in the front (Thanks Cajuntundra!) and rear (Thanks Nytrousboy!) differentials, Toyo H/T Open Country tires. testis amotio per pera
does synthetic transmission fluid require a different type transmission filter?
while we're on the subject
I don't think so. And, while we are on the subject, I'm almost certain that the Toyota Type T-IV is a synthetic already. (I'm sure if I'm wrong, someone will correct me!!)
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MrBeanley
Glenville, New York
2004 Tundra Double Cab 4x4
i'm trying to see if napa stocks a trans filter kit now, and they're asking me what model it is... he said there are four different models for the 4 speed AT
i'm kinda confused, i read off the transmission (AISIN AW company), 30-40LE but this sales rep still doesn't know what to look for... he said it starts with AE? hmmmm
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one dog goes one way and one goes the other way, and this guy's like "what do you want from me?"
i'm trying to see if napa stocks a trans filter kit now, and they're asking me what model it is... he said there are four different models for the 4 speed AT
i'm kinda confused, i read off the transmission (AISIN AW company), 30-40LE but this sales rep still doesn't know what to look for... he said it starts with AE? hmmmm
You don't need a "filter kit". The screen mounted on the underside of the transmission (accessed after a pan drop) is a 'clean-and-reinstall' unit. The only time you'd need to replace it is when/if the screen cannot be cleaned and/or it is damaged. Your dealer would be the place to get it at that point.
As to transmission fluid filtering, I highly suggest the installation of the Magnefine inline filter unit. It is similar in structure to an oil filter, has a powerful magnet to capture metallic particles, a bypass, and filters down to 10 microns. They're only about $15/ea and are rated to last 50K miles, although I will be changing mine every 25K-30K miles.
A few of us members are running the filter for peace of mind. It's an easy install on the return line coming from the transmission cooler; takes about 10 minutes. Here's a thread on the install: In Line Trans filter, and below is a pic from Greenie showing the install location.