I have a 2005 DC with the LSD. The truck has 69K miles and is in mint condition, except for one issue. I get a 'shudder' in the rear end when taking off from a stop while turning either left or right. This mostly happens in the morning or after the truck has been sitting for awhile. I have felt this in the past and to correct I would change the fluid (Lucas 80-90W) and add a tube of Limited Slip additive. No more shudder/chatter. By the way, there has never been any noise or growl associated when this happens.
Well last week, after noticing the shudder, I changed the fluid, added the tube of additive, but this time the shudder is still present. Now to my questions:
Could there be some sort of wear or damage to the plates in the diff that need repair?
Should I try adding another tube of additive? Or would that do harm?
Should I try a different brand of fluid? Say Royal Purple?
I have read that Royal Purple is good, but it only comes in 75-90W. Is that OK?
My manual does not say to use synthetic rear end fluid, so I want to stay away from that.
I have 5,000 miles left on the extended warranty, and will take it to the dealer if I have to, but I would like to try a 'fluid adjustment' if you think it might cure the problem.
I have a 2005 DC with the LSD. The truck has 69K miles and is in mint condition, except for one issue. I get a 'shudder' in the rear end when taking off from a stop while turning either left or right. This mostly happens in the morning or after the truck has been sitting for awhile. I have felt this in the past and to correct I would change the fluid (Lucas 80-90W) and add a tube of Limited Slip additive. No more shudder/chatter. By the way, there has never been any noise or growl associated when this happens.
Well last week, after noticing the shudder, I changed the fluid, added the tube of additive, but this time the shudder is still present. Now to my questions:
Could there be some sort of wear or damage to the plates in the diff that need repair?
Should I try adding another tube of additive? Or would that do harm?
Should I try a different brand of fluid? Say Royal Purple?
I have read that Royal Purple is good, but it only comes in 75-90W. Is that OK?
My manual does not say to use synthetic rear end fluid, so I want to stay away from that.
I have 5,000 miles left on the extended warranty, and will take it to the dealer if I have to, but I would like to try a 'fluid adjustment' if you think it might cure the problem.
Thanks for any suggestions.
What additive did you use. You could very well have too much in there if you added a whole tube and I'm assuming you bought the universal tube from Autozone,etc. I had to go to a ford dealership to get the right friction modifier as the Toyota dealer did not even use it.
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04 TRD AC 4X4,JBA headers,True Flow intake w/K&N drop-in, Spintech Sportsman Street XL muffler, NGK TR6ix plugs, new Denso 234-4209 o2 sensors,Mobil 1 Syn 0W-40
I wouldn't worry too much about damaging them, as long as the growling didn't go on too long and it is finally fixed. We used to deliberately leave out some of the friction modifier to get more miles on old Chevy posi rear ends when the clutches would almost wear out.
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Attention environmentalists, reduce emissions from this:
Royal purple 75w-90 is what I used, not a big deal in my book. Straight 90 would probably be fine as well. It does not require an lsd addtive. I swapped mine out at 35k and have had no issues now approaching 60k. Royal purple is synthetic btw.
I can't think of any reason why you couldn't run synthetic. The transmission comes from the factory that way and the differential might as well, I dunno. You do know that an LSD has a limited life span anyway? 100k isn't uncommon life for the clutches and such, depending how hard you are on them. Like I said, I've been running the RP 75w-90 for 25k hard miles and no issues. Incorrect fluid would have destroyed something by now. Also, considering your location the straight 90W would likely be a better choice. The book only calls for the 75W-90 if you're running the truck under 0°.
I went to many stores looking for the 90W oil that the book calls for and it is no where to be found. All the stores only carry 80-90W. I was not aware that the LSD had a limited life and have not heard or read on anyone here having the clutches replaced as routine maintenance, like a timing belt for example. Would the extended warranty cover the plates, since they are a consumable item?
If someone has had to have their LSD plates replaced, could you please give me an idea of how much you had to pay.
Usually what happens is, over time you lose the effectiveness of the LSD. Doesn't necessarily mean the rear-end goes bad, just the ability to transfer power from a slipping tire. So at that point you basically have an open diff. Many folks probably don't even know if it's bad. Also, keep in mind LSD is not very common on Toyotas and was a later model option as well. I'm thinking 2003 or 2004 was the first year they even offered it. Autozone or any store should be able to order you the 90W Royal Purple. They don't like to stock that stuff as it's relatively expensive. I'm planning a longer drain interval since I'm using the synthetic RP fluid.
I decided to add another tube of additive to see if that would make the shudder go away. It did. The additive that is sold at my local Auto Zone is 7oz, so I now have 14ozs in the diff. While it may diminish the effectiveness of the LSD (and maybe not) I do not have to live with the shudder I was experiencing. So as some have said, the 4oz, or in my case the 7oz tube of FM is just a starting point, some diffs might need more and some less, and some none at all.
I was told that too much additive will not do any damage to the rear end components, just possibly reduce the LSD functionality.
Interesting. That is the same thing my "new" 2006 DC does. I just figured it was a result of the LSD. I just bought it a few weeks ago with ~62k miles on it. I think I will do a fluid change as a precaution. Sounds like Royal purple 75w-90 is the way to go with a tube or two of the additive.
Many claim no additive is necessary with the Royal Purple, and others use it. This for sure is no exact science. My 2005 DC manual says to use conventional oil, so I chose to stay away from the synthetic stuff. I was told that if your diff was not designed to be used with synthetic oil, it's use 'may' cause the seals to leak. I want NO part of that. I would start with no additive, if the shudder is still there, add a tube, if it goes away be done with it. If it remains, add another.
I just did my rear lsd diff oil change yesterday. I was thinking about using RP 75w90 synthetic because I run Mobil 1 synthetic in my engine (can't get mobil gear oil in germany) but my owners/service manual says to use a SAE 90 or 80w90 for the rear diff. I used 1 tube (7 oz) of a lsd additive the name brand is TRANS-X. I used Quacker state gear oil made for lsd. So far everything is fine, no issues. The dealer i talk to in the states says once you do the change find an empty parking lot and do figure 8's in forward and reverse to spread the oil around in the case. Hope this helps.
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97 Opel Corsa/german specs(daily driver)
06 DC Tundra
07 HD Fat Boy (my toy)
08 mini cooper S (wifes ride)
The last time my rear (open) diff was serviced, according to the service sheet the dealer loaded it with straight 90W conventional gear oil, which is probably what was originally called for back when the truck was produced. So...
Q: Would a switch to Mobil-1 75W-90 cause any problems?
The core viscosity is the same; it's just the cold weather capability seems to be enhanced. And I like the temperature-reducing characteristics of the synthetic over the conventional. I can pick up the Mobil-1 LS 75W-90 for $9/qt at my local Autozone.
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2002 Tundra V8 SR5 2WD AC | Silver Sky Metallic | Chrome Step Bars | Kobalt Low Profile Bed Box
A Month ago i changed my Lsd gear lube with R/P and mine did the same as you described so i called royal purple and talk to a tech he told me to do figure 8's in parking lot real slow as tight as you can about 4 or 5 and I have no more shudder starting out even on cold mornings !
While I have no idea what doing the figure 8's would do to eliminate the problem, tonight I will be in a parking lot doing 4 or 5. I now have 14 ozs of additive in my diff with Lucas 80-90W Oil. Straight 90W (recommended in the manual) is no where to be found in Southern California. I thought the extra tube cured the 'shudder' but I did feel it a bit this morning. I am going to give the 8's a try.
Can anyone explain the reason for doing the figure 8's, and what it would do inside the diff to cure the problem?