Question brake fluid flush

[mark1955]

first let me mention i am not really a new member. i was previously registered under mark55, but i have not been on in a while and forgot my password. when i attempted password recovery it said my email was not recognized. anyways here is the question. i have a 2006 xsp with about 45k on her. my front brakes were getting worn so i took it to the dealer where i purchased it. had a $20 coupon. anyways, they come out and tell me that my brake fluid is getting dark and that it is starting to hold voltage. he goes on to tell me that brake fluid is hydrostatic and that this is what happens. he states you should have your brake fluid flushed when you get new brakes. cost $139! i have never heard of such a thing and called a friend in an attempt to verify. he too stated he had never heard of it. well i am at a dealer 20 miles from home and computer so i tell him to go ahead and do it. guess it couldn't hurt, but i really did not have the extra money. while i am waiting the salesman who sold me the truck (and also my daughters solara)comes up and is talking to me. i told him out right that if i found out i just paid $140 for something i didn't need, that my relationship with the dealership was through. no more purchase, service...you name it. so was what the service advisor told me true? or where they just out for some extra money?

[5 Speed]

They now sell test strips that will test the amount of copper in your fluid indicating time to change the fluid, it does wear out but the color isn't the correct test. I might ask to see the actual test and color isn't a real test but can be an indicator. Flushing your brake fluid isn't that difficult and I can typically do anyone of my vehicles in 30 minutes or so bleeding from each wheel. What is interesting is I started doing this after I read 20 years ago that it was on the Mercedes every 2 year maintenance schedule.

[mcarthurp]

I change the brake fluid when I change all the differential oils.

Pat

[CJM_T100]

All you gotta do is basically take a turkey baster and pick up most of the fluid and add new. It wont get you 100% new fluid but close enough that after doing this in 10k miles it will be pretty clear.

[kenairmk]

Originally Posted by CJM_T100

All you gotta do is basically take a turkey baster and pick up most of the fluid and add new. It wont get you 100% new fluid but close enough that after doing this in 10k miles it will be pretty clear.

No offence, but the point is to replace the fluid with new. The baster idea does nothing for what's in the lines. It's best to bleed it from the wheel cylinders and calipers that way you know it's done right.

[kerykj]

Motive Bleeder.

[stevekx]

After 145K on my 03 the fluid is still fine. I think they sold you a service that was not needed and they overcharged you 2 times the amount it should of cost.

My original rear breakes are getting low and my second set of fronts are around 30%. I plan to repalace both and have the installation shop "super bleed" all 4 corners. It is basically takes and extra 20-30 minutes to do, they will charge me around $40 and another $20 or so for the extra fluid.

[RamItOne]

Steve why do you say your fluid is fine? What's the copper count ppm? How much water is in your lines? In Europe they're making it mandatory.

[TheGryme]

Wow...I worked on vehicles for years and never heard of this, So what happens if the brake fluid is able to conduct electricity? Can I eliminate my brake lights or what?

[RamItOne]

Gryme- you must have worked for Goodyear then.

the more water that contaminates the brake fluid the lower the boiling point for the fluid in the brake lines. The whole concept of hydraulic brakes is that fluid can't be compressed. Well lower the boiling temp and then you get the fluid to turn into a gas (boil) and well you certainly can compress gas, that's when your pedal goes soft and you don't stop. Also water causes rust, the copper particles get stuck in your abs module. I wonder if when you "worked on cars" if you ever opened the bleeder screw when pushing back the caliper pistons?

As for the turkey baster, that won't get much of the fluid out.

[stevekx]

Originally Posted by RamItOne

Steve why do you say your fluid is fine? What's the copper count ppm? How much water is in your lines? In Europe they're making it mandatory.

The truck (all 5400 lbs of it) stops just fine, the break fluid did not darken.

[Alligatorgar]

I changed out my bleed nipples (Added russells speed bleed nipples) recently on my 03 corolla and one of the old nipples had corrosion on it (classic sign of moisture in system). The fluid color was darker than it should be and the original peddle was ok but not real high and tight. After bleeding the old fluid out the peddle is very high and tight. Its so easy to bleed brakes with Russells speed bleed nipples it takes out the hassle of bleeding lines now. Its a waste of money to pay someone else to do it for you if you are physically/mentally capable. Its time or money. Take the time to do it or pay the money to have it done. I prefer to do the work myself and flip the money saved on more parts for my truck and car.

[TheGryme]

Originally Posted by RamItOne

Gryme- you must have worked for Goodyear then.

Nope.....PepBoyz!

Actually I understand the hydraulics of the system....I was just wondering about the electrical conductivity issue mentioned in the original post....thinking it could have been BS to sell the exspensive flush job.

Whatever.....CRamit.

[RamItOne]

Lol pepboys, they're going through rough times.
Do you still turn wrenches?
Yeah the conductivity reason is kinda lame

Steve the temperatures and pressure danger is when you slam on the brakes, you'll find out when you really need em to work.

[benbeaux]

Careful, conductive brake fluid can short out your flux capacitor. Then you'll really be hosed...

BTW, I use this:

Motive Products