Moar POR-15

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Thread: Moar POR-15

  1. #1
    Senior Contributor jack mccarthy's Avatar
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    Default Moar POR-15

    Finished up the rest of my frame last week. Man what a pain in the @ss! I'll never do that again. Too much time, wasted material & clothing and cleaning up to do. Only got one coat on except for the outer frame rails and axle, driveshaft & leaf springs - those got two coats. Also got a little dirty after driving it home & to work.

    I'll let the dealer deal with the rest and do the top of the frame under the bed since I don't have a torch handy to heat the nuts and take off the torx bolts.

    Not the best work, but I had to try to avoid getting the stuff on any bolts & nuts.















    Last edited by jack mccarthy; 11-30-2012 at 02:14 PM.
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    Default Re: Moar POR-15

    you missed a spot
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    Default Re: Moar POR-15

    Quote Originally Posted by SuckersWalk View Post
    you missed a spot
    Always a critic!

    Yeah, I know I missed a few, but I'm not going in there with a touch up paint brush unless the rust spreads; plus I plan to have the dealer spray over it anyway.
    "I always give 100% at work: 13% Monday; 22% Tuesday; 26% Wednesday; 35% Thursday; 4% Friday."

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    Default Re: Moar POR-15

    It sure does look awesome and the protection factor must be incredible, but, I'm glad you mentioned the mess and PITAzz0-factor as I can't get myself to go through all that.

    Thankfully, since the first and every subsequent winter here in MA, I have been diligent in either going to the coin-op-spray or hosing off my undercarriage in my driveway so all I have is some surface rust and it is very light at that.

    Your job reminds me of bottom painting a boat. You did good though.
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    Default Re: Moar POR-15

    Nice job. I'm gonna check over my diff cover, and if its not pinholed, like a lot seem to, I'm gonna POR my rear axle with my leftover.

    Did you use both the POR15 cleaner and metal etch?...Man, is THAT a PIA to use!...Also, did you sand before applying the POR?

    If you have any POR15 left, put the whole can in a ziploc. They suggest using saran wrap under the cap, but I tried that, and it made a bigger mess, the wrap tore apart every time I reopened the can, and I ended up with some of it getting into the POR...Also after opening the lid a couple times, it wouldnt reseal, and the POR inside hardened up...I ended up wasting about 1/5 of a quart because of that, and there are now some hardened chunks mixed in with the left over...
    At $50 a quart, you think they would have found or designed a better container than a standard paint can.
    Last edited by Stone_Blue; 12-01-2012 at 08:12 AM.

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    Default Re: Moar POR-15

    Quote Originally Posted by Stone_Blue View Post
    Nice job. I'm gonna check over my diff cover, and if its not pinholed, like a lot seem to, I'm gonna POR my rear axle with my leftover.

    Did you use both the POR15 cleaner and metal etch?...Man, is THAT a PIA to use!...Also, did you sand before applying the POR?

    If you have any POR15 left, put the whole can in a ziploc. They suggest using saran wrap under the cap, but I tried that, and it made a bigger mess, the wrap tore apart every time I reopened the can, and I ended up with some of it getting into the POR...Also after opening the lid a couple times, it wouldnt reseal, and the POR inside hardened up...I ended up wasting about 1/5 of a quart because of that, and there are now some hardened chunks mixed in with the left over...
    At $50 a quart, you think they would have found or designed a better container than a standard paint can.
    I used the degreaser, metal etch and tried to do the recommended two coats. Too many nooks and crannies on the inside of the frame rails unless I remove the bed, gas tank, muffler, fuel & brake lines to grind everything smooth and make it look like new. Did the best I could with two sets of wire brushes, a 4" air grinder with 80 grit sandpaper, die grinder with both a 1" 80 grit wheel and wire brush. Spent two days just prepping the truck and only a day to paint it, before it got too cold out.

    The POR-15 will keep if you keep the lid in good condition and clean the lip around the can and cover so they don't stick together and can get the lid on airtight. Mine was in the fridge for over 6 months on 1/2 quart before I reused it to do the backside of the frame. When your ready to use it, it's best to put the paint in baby food jars and clean the top before sealing it with saran wrap and the lid; that way you can take it out one jar at a time; just enough to use before the paint starts to thicken. Some people keep it in the baby food jars, but I tried that once and can't always get an airtight seal.

    They do sell it in 1/2 pint cans as a 6 pack I believe, but it's more expensive. Now you can actually buy it over the counter at Carquest Auto Parts, Inc. and avoid the shipping charges; at least the paint, not the metal etch and degreaser.

    I used semi-gloss black by the way.
    Last edited by jack mccarthy; 12-01-2012 at 10:00 AM.
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    Default Re: Moar POR-15

    Oh, you're right...Something I forgot to mention, was I used a kitchen baster to transfer the POR from the can to a small, (maybe 6-8oz), canning jar for jelly & stuff.
    Using the baster helps keep getting POR into the lip of the can. I had small areas to do at one time, so I only transfered about 2oz at a time. During 70 during the day, 50 during the night weather, it only took about 3 days for the leftover POR in the bottom of the jar to harden solid, even with the canning lid on....So yeah, only take what you need in small amounts, and expect to waste whatever is left over in the small jar.

    At one point, using both the cleaner and etcher was too much for me...(The water rinsing between them was the issue), and the POR didnt seem to coat well at all over bare metal (even AFTER both the degreaser and etcher), so I ground down to bare metal (other than the pitting, which I left in the worst cases), wiped off the dust with a microfiber cloth, then I used two coats of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer...Let it sit for at least 18-24hrs, did a half-@ssed sanding with 320 grit, dusted it again with the cloth, then applied two coats of the POR, waiting about 3-6hrs between coats. Seems to have worked well, as the POR seemed to stick and cover better, to the Primer than just bare metal.

    I cant imagine putting all that process/work into doing a whole frame, or even just the rear of the frame.

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    Default Re: Moar POR-15

    From my experience the POR-15 bonds the best to the bare metal. If you put it over the top of two coats of primer it will not bond and will be really easy to knock off. I sandblasted my axles, frame and new leaf springs before I degreased and etched. Everything I did turned out extremely well. Of coarse this was on my scout that was completely disassembled and done with all the parts hanging. It definately takes a long time and can be a huge mess if you don't take your time and is a waste if you can't use most of a can of the paint at one time. I started buying the smaller cans to use. The syran wrap only works well if you keep the lid clean and you must have almost clean room conditions so the stored paint does not get contaminated because it will cure if it is.

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