2000 SR 5 4X4 .. 4.7 V-8 I need more power for towing. Dismal torque on this engine. Anyone of experience with the add on supercharger? H/P Boost? Torque Boost? anyone? Thanks
| |
2000 SR 5 4X4 .. 4.7 V-8 I need more power for towing. Dismal torque on this engine. Anyone of experience with the add on supercharger? H/P Boost? Torque Boost? anyone? Thanks
Sounds like you need to trade down to a domestic with diesel power.
2005 Tundra DC Limited 4wd - Phantom Gray Pearl
Search for your answer. http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/106548-how-to-search-this-forum/
Short answer:
Not Recommended
The connecting rods are the weak link and are rumored to be the main reason TRD stopped producing the supercharger. Will your engine explode day 1? Probably not but it certainly wont last under full power for any reasonable amount of time. It can be done for sure, but at a huge cost to do it right which far outweights the cost of buying the right truck for the job in the first place.
The major upgrades you need are:
Complete supercharger kit (very rare to find a complete one with ECU, wiring, 9th injector etc.) -probably will need rebuilding
1UZFE connecting rods from '89 to 94' Lexus (parts are cheap, labor is not) or Lextreme Forged H beam rods ($650 for Stage one-650HP or below)
Built Tranny (especially your 2000 which is prone to failure under high loads, even without a supercharger [weak OD Torrington bearing cage])
Tuning
91 Octane
More reading:
1UZ vs 2UZ Rod comparison
Lextreme Built Short Blocks (still need supercharger for larger power but ready to handle it)
The fate of an unmodified supercharged engine
The last Tundra was used on the track (to great effect) but the engine failed under normal driving conditions with no trailer in tow.
I assume most people at this point have decided against supercharging, but the final word I will add is that if you do want to put this kind of effort in, you may as well turbo it instead from Squires Turbo and make the most of the engine.
Side note: standby for people telling you to do a search. and listen to them
Last edited by oofy15354; 12-04-2012 at 12:54 PM.
2001 Black AC V8 4x4
Current Mods: TrailFX Tube Steps, Uniden CB Radio with PA, Recon Tailgate LED Bar, Edelbrock Exhaust, Hankook Dynapro ATM 265/70/R16, Blacked Out Emblems, Plastidip Mirror Caps, Bumpers and Front Grill, Skid Row Skid Plate (Thanks to four_by_four), Full Blue LED interior lighting, Herculiner Bed Liner, Kobalt Low Profile Tool Box, Smitty Built Rear Shackle, Walmart Front AUX lights, JVC Headunit, Kicker Front Components, Pioneer Rear Speakers, Magnefine Filter, Viper Remote Start, Single in-Dual out 2.25in Exhaust
Thanks to Rust: New Frame, New Calipers, New Rear Axle, Sway Bar End Links, Tailgate Straps, Exhaust Leaks
To Do: Diff Fluid, Kenwood DDX419, 5100s Front and Rear set to 1in, Diff Drop, Poly Rack Bushings
2005 Tundra DC Limited 4wd - Phantom Gray Pearl
Search for your answer. http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/106548-how-to-search-this-forum/
You need to do more research so you fully understand the terms horsepower, torque, and the rpm curve.
2002 Tundra V8 SR5 2WD AC
1C7-Thunder Gray Metallic | Bilstein 5100s | Wheeler's Progressive 3-leaf AAL w/ OL Leaf
LT265/75R16D1 Nitto Terra Grapplers | Wheeler's Poly Sway Bar Bushing/Bump Stop Set
eBay T304 SS Headers | Percy's #66080 Header Gaskets | Remflex #8015 Collector Gaskets
13WL Caliper Upgrade | Hawk Quiet Slot Rotors | Hawk LTS Brake Pads
Mobil 1 Syn 0W-30 | Mobil 1 Syn ATF | Mobil 1 Syn 75W-90 Gear Oil | Magnefine ATF Filter 3/8"
Denso #K20R-U Plugs | Russell Speed Bleeders #639570 (7mm)
Ham Radio: KJ6OPA | CB Radio/Handle: Midland 75-822/"Marksman"
* * * I highly recommend Auto-Rx for your engine and transmission. * * *
* * * O2 Sensor Replacement DIY * * *
Don't mind these guys, they live to find reasons to say "search".Sometimes I do too.
What exactly are you towing? If you are towing anything serious, you may have the wrong truck for it. Your year has the weaker planetary gear in the transmission, this might come back to haunt you if you over load it.
I have a 2004 that I used for my landscaping company and tree service. Towed way over gross a few times and she still ran fine. I agree that your transmission is not ideal for the towing. What exactly are you trying to tow?
Tundra Fuel Economy Blog
241,233 miles on the odometer [come see me when you get that on your ford]
Highwaylizard 2004 Tundra Double Cab Limited Edition 4.7 liter V8, four speed automatic, four wheel drive, testing platform for fuel economy, self designed cold air intake using ram air principle, Scangauge, Fitch Fuel Catalyst, Aero Turbine, "Foolie Exhaust" from Aero Turbine back, True Flow Intake with Amsoil drop-in dry filter, Mobile 1 in the engine, NAPA oil filter, NAPA in the differentials. 3:91 gears in the front (Thanks Cajuntundra!) and rear (Thanks Nytrousboy!) differentials, Michelin LTX M/S2 tires
I'm curious to know what you're towing as well.
If it's a lot, all the time, you shoulda bought a diesel.
Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com Free App
01 Tundra 4.7L 4x4 TRD access cab- Camburg uniball UCAs, OME 886 coils, 5100s
Dynapro ATM 285/75r16 on American Racing Chamber teflon wheels
electric fans, undercover snorkel, extended breathers, muffler swap, dvd player, remote start
slow build thread - http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...ol-s-01-Tundra
The SC is a great addition to add HP and torque to the small block 4.7. However, I am also convinced many do not
understand its engineered limits, how it really works, where is max power gains, etc. It is not the quick fix
that many seek when looking for power gains. It works, has been proven for some rides with over 100k and going strong.
The problem, start playing with higher end boost values like 9-10 psi and ask for trouble. Adding non value
parts like off the shelf CAI. Improper tunes for A/F ratios, etc. Also, not paying attention to the
sum of the parts, meaning total driveline is ignored. (emphasis on tranny and rear end).
Short version, I would suggest a larger truck and package, but, it depends on what you are really towing if needed. Is
it daily work, reaching or over extending OEM limits, environment such as major hills and valleys, etc. Hard to say without you
providing more info on what you need to get done with your Tundra.
Last edited by jbtoy; 12-05-2012 at 09:09 AM.
JB
2000 Tundra Supercharged 4.7 TRD (Ivan) in Sunfire Red Pearl.
Check out my cardomain location for pics of mods or use my gallery
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/665303
Thank you, one and all, for your response. Remmy700P I have a "basic" knowledge", and I respect your response.. even tho I may not agree... All in all, I think this board is an excellent reference for the truth. Tundra has become so much more than when I bought my first.. But, you all are right..I may just need a diesel. Oh, and for the answer of what I am towing, is an offshore fishing boat "REEL RELIEF"
Saw that build on Lextreme and actually linked to it above. The guy had the supercharger on the stock engine and threw a rod. So he decided to buy the best money can buy of everything and built one hell of a truck. I tried to get more info on what else he did or more pictures but I've come up empty
2001 Black AC V8 4x4
Current Mods: TrailFX Tube Steps, Uniden CB Radio with PA, Recon Tailgate LED Bar, Edelbrock Exhaust, Hankook Dynapro ATM 265/70/R16, Blacked Out Emblems, Plastidip Mirror Caps, Bumpers and Front Grill, Skid Row Skid Plate (Thanks to four_by_four), Full Blue LED interior lighting, Herculiner Bed Liner, Kobalt Low Profile Tool Box, Smitty Built Rear Shackle, Walmart Front AUX lights, JVC Headunit, Kicker Front Components, Pioneer Rear Speakers, Magnefine Filter, Viper Remote Start, Single in-Dual out 2.25in Exhaust
Thanks to Rust: New Frame, New Calipers, New Rear Axle, Sway Bar End Links, Tailgate Straps, Exhaust Leaks
To Do: Diff Fluid, Kenwood DDX419, 5100s Front and Rear set to 1in, Diff Drop, Poly Rack Bushings
I put the SC on my 2012 and it is awesome so much fun, but im not sure about the older motors. if i were to do anything to it i would definitely build the motor to suit. Also if you are using forced induction you should think about a turbo you could get a custom kit built for cheaper than it would cost for the SC kit. the only reason i got mine is because its covered on the warranty and I negotiated good enough to basically get it for free (by this I mean I talked the price of the truck down to cover the kit/install) with the truck and I was able to finance it instead of just shelling out cost up front. But if you are going to spend this much time, energy, money you might as well buy a newer 5.7 they are crazy fast and powerful to begin with. Maybe put on a CAI, exhast, and get a tune up, it will never get the power of forced induction but its cheaper and may help enough for you to be happy with the power your truck has. Just my opinion but then again im not the smartest person in the world... just ask my wife.
| |