As promised, here are my trials and tribulations from the 90k service on my 2005 4.7L V8 Access Cab with 92,000 miles.
Cost: approx. $450
Time Spent: 12 hours
After thoroughly researching timing belt/water pump replacement "How To's" I purchased a timing belt kit from volkstoy on ebay for $318 with free shipping.
Premium Toyota 2UZFE 4 7L V8 Timing Belt Kit 98 07 | eBay
Within 5 minutes of ordering the kit I received a call from their shop asking about the details for my truck. They shipped the kit out that night and I received it 2 days later. I also ordered a Haynes repair manual, a harmonic balancer puller, and 3 gallons of Toyota Super Long Life coolant. Other necessary parts and tools include: RTV sealant, torque wrench(s) (10-180 ft lbs), breaker bar, pliers, various sockets (10,12,14,and 22mm), open end wrenches (x2 12mm), a 3' long 2x4, and a 3/8in hex key. I also recommend laying some cardboard or a large tarp down before starting because coolant seems to spew from every part that you remove.
For this job I referenced a 3-part youtube series from 1aauto:
I also used this guide:
Tundra 4.7 (2uz) Timing Belt & Water Pump Replacement - YotaTech Forums
Although these online references are great, I highly recommend having a repair manual on hand as well. I began by following the dis assembly instructions from part 1 of the 1aauto video series. One of the best things I learned from this job is to be VERY ORGANIZED. I took the time to put all nuts, bolts, and fasteners into separate, labeled ziploc bags. It seems excessive at first but trust me, once you have removed 50+ nuts and bolts, you won't remember what goes where. Also be sure to note the orientations of any parts that you remove. Some components are supported by bolts of varying sizes, make sure you know which goes where. Any extra time you put into staying organized on the dis assembly will save twofold on the re-assembly. Here are all of my parts neatly laid out and labeled.
The only roadblock I encountered on dis assembly was the 22mm crank pulley bolt. Everyone says that a 1/2" drive impact will take usually take it right off. Not in my case! After hitting it with the impact gun repeatedly, I had to explore other methods. I tried using a strap wrench to hold the pulley while cranking on the bolt with a 17" breaker bar. The strap wrench would start to slip well before the bolt would even budge. As a last resort, I turned to "bumping" the starter to break the bolt free. I braced the breaker bar with a cheater pipe beneath the passenger side frame and supported it with a jack stand.
NOTE: Disconnect the ignition wire before cranking the starter! You don't want the engine to turn over while you have the entire front of the engine disassembled! My V8 had 8 ignition wires to disconnect, I believe the V6 only has 3. I also reconnected the timing sensor just to be safe
This method made me a little nervous, and I only used it as a last resort. However, It worked like a charm! I turned the key over for just a quick second and I heard a loud pop. The bolt broke loose immediately, and I continued with my deconstruction.
It was clear that my water pump had a fairly significant coolant leak.
Water Pump Leak.JPG
Though the old t-belt appeared to be in good shape.
All of the replacement parts from the kit went on smoothly, and the timing marks on my cams remained lined lined up after two turns of the crankshaft. So, I proceeded to re-install everything in reverse order. Again, the crank pulley put up a fight. The 1aauto video suggests making a "2x4 tool" to hold the harmonic balancer while torquing the crank bolt to 180 ft lbs. On my first attempt, the 2x4 split. I tried again, this time drilling the holes further from the end of the 2x4. This time the bolts which I used to secure the 2x4 to the pulley began to flex as I torqued the bolt. I proceeded carefully, and just barely got the torque wrench to click. The bolts that I used used to secure the 2x4 (from my harmonic balancer puller) were pretty well bent. These bolts seemed pretty cheap, so I might recommend using something a bit stronger from a local hardware store.
Everything from there was smooth sailing. The a/c compressor was a little tricky to re-mount by myself but I ended up employing some wire and a jack stand to hold it in place while I started the bolts. After completing the re-assembly I filled the radiator with a little over 2 gallons of pink Toyota Super Long Life Coolant. I said a quick prayer and turned the key........and she fired right up. It was definitely rewarding hearing the engine run smoothly after a fairly involved repair (certainly my most involved auto work to date). I let the engine warm up then I rev'd it to 2500 rpm with the heater on high. Eventually the cooling system was rid of any air pockets and hot air began to flow from the vents. I added about another 1/2 gallon of coolant and called it a day. I learned a lot from doing this repair on my own: 1.) Most auto work really isn't that difficult (although incredibly frustrating at times) 2.) BE ORGANIZED! 3.) TundraSolutions has a bunch of amazing resources, take advantage of them.
For anyone considering doing this job on their own, I say go for it. Just be prepared to encounter some sort of difficulty, it WILL happen. Just be patient and allow yourself plenty of time. Its really not that bad plus you'll save yourself a ton of $$$! Hope this helps and good luck to all you DIY'ers.