Timing Belt & Water Pump Replacement- 2005 4.7L V8 AC

[Beaugentry4]

As promised, here are my trials and tribulations from the 90k service on my 2005 4.7L V8 Access Cab with 92,000 miles.
Cost: approx. $450
Time Spent: 12 hours

After thoroughly researching timing belt/water pump replacement "How To's" I purchased a timing belt kit from volkstoy on ebay for $318 with free shipping.
Premium Toyota 2UZFE 4 7L V8 Timing Belt Kit 98 07 | eBay

Within 5 minutes of ordering the kit I received a call from their shop asking about the details for my truck. They shipped the kit out that night and I received it 2 days later. I also ordered a Haynes repair manual, a harmonic balancer puller, and 3 gallons of Toyota Super Long Life coolant. Other necessary parts and tools include: RTV sealant, torque wrench(s) (10-180 ft lbs), breaker bar, pliers, various sockets (10,12,14,and 22mm), open end wrenches (x2 12mm), a 3' long 2x4, and a 3/8in hex key. I also recommend laying some cardboard or a large tarp down before starting because coolant seems to spew from every part that you remove.

For this job I referenced a 3-part youtube series from 1aauto:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TZTn1Arjho

I also used this guide:
Tundra 4.7 (2uz) Timing Belt & Water Pump Replacement - YotaTech Forums

Although these online references are great, I highly recommend having a repair manual on hand as well. I began by following the dis assembly instructions from part 1 of the 1aauto video series. One of the best things I learned from this job is to be VERY ORGANIZED. I took the time to put all nuts, bolts, and fasteners into separate, labeled ziploc bags. It seems excessive at first but trust me, once you have removed 50+ nuts and bolts, you won't remember what goes where. Also be sure to note the orientations of any parts that you remove. Some components are supported by bolts of varying sizes, make sure you know which goes where. Any extra time you put into staying organized on the dis assembly will save twofold on the re-assembly. Here are all of my parts neatly laid out and labeled.
Parts.JPG
The only roadblock I encountered on dis assembly was the 22mm crank pulley bolt. Everyone says that a 1/2" drive impact will take usually take it right off. Not in my case! After hitting it with the impact gun repeatedly, I had to explore other methods. I tried using a strap wrench to hold the pulley while cranking on the bolt with a 17" breaker bar. The strap wrench would start to slip well before the bolt would even budge. As a last resort, I turned to "bumping" the starter to break the bolt free. I braced the breaker bar with a cheater pipe beneath the passenger side frame and supported it with a jack stand.
Ignition Disconnect.JPG
NOTE: Disconnect the ignition wire before cranking the starter! You don't want the engine to turn over while you have the entire front of the engine disassembled! My V8 had 8 ignition wires to disconnect, I believe the V6 only has 3. I also reconnected the timing sensor just to be safe
Starter Bump.JPG
This method made me a little nervous, and I only used it as a last resort. However, It worked like a charm! I turned the key over for just a quick second and I heard a loud pop. The bolt broke loose immediately, and I continued with my deconstruction.

It was clear that my water pump had a fairly significant coolant leak.
Water Pump Leak.JPG
Though the old t-belt appeared to be in good shape.
Timing Belt.JPG
All of the replacement parts from the kit went on smoothly, and the timing marks on my cams remained lined lined up after two turns of the crankshaft. So, I proceeded to re-install everything in reverse order. Again, the crank pulley put up a fight. The 1aauto video suggests making a "2x4 tool" to hold the harmonic balancer while torquing the crank bolt to 180 ft lbs. On my first attempt, the 2x4 split. I tried again, this time drilling the holes further from the end of the 2x4. This time the bolts which I used to secure the 2x4 to the pulley began to flex as I torqued the bolt. I proceeded carefully, and just barely got the torque wrench to click. The bolts that I used used to secure the 2x4 (from my harmonic balancer puller) were pretty well bent. These bolts seemed pretty cheap, so I might recommend using something a bit stronger from a local hardware store.

Everything from there was smooth sailing. The a/c compressor was a little tricky to re-mount by myself but I ended up employing some wire and a jack stand to hold it in place while I started the bolts. After completing the re-assembly I filled the radiator with a little over 2 gallons of pink Toyota Super Long Life Coolant. I said a quick prayer and turned the key........and she fired right up. It was definitely rewarding hearing the engine run smoothly after a fairly involved repair (certainly my most involved auto work to date). I let the engine warm up then I rev'd it to 2500 rpm with the heater on high. Eventually the cooling system was rid of any air pockets and hot air began to flow from the vents. I added about another 1/2 gallon of coolant and called it a day. I learned a lot from doing this repair on my own: 1.) Most auto work really isn't that difficult (although incredibly frustrating at times) 2.) BE ORGANIZED! 3.) TundraSolutions has a bunch of amazing resources, take advantage of them.
For anyone considering doing this job on their own, I say go for it. Just be prepared to encounter some sort of difficulty, it WILL happen. Just be patient and allow yourself plenty of time. Its really not that bad plus you'll save yourself a ton of $$$! Hope this helps and good luck to all you DIY'ers.

[SuckersWalk]

outstanding. pts sent :0

[2003bajatundra4x4ac]

^^what he said!^^

[kerryman71]

That's great to see that everything went well. Great job. Did you ever happen to get an estimate from the dealer to do the job? I'd say you saved at least 50%, maybe a bit more. When I had mine done just shy of the 90K miles mark it cost me about $800-900. That was in 2009, so I'm a couple years before the 72 month timeline. I shouldn't hit the mileage mark before then.

This is a job I wish I could do on my own, but unfortunately I live in a condo. If they catch you popping your hood some old hag b*tches that you were working on your vehicle. I do a lot of work on my truck at work or my parents house, but nothing that I would have to leave for an extended period of time. Who knows, maybe by the time it's due again we'll sell the condo and be in a single family house. Points your way.

John

[SuckersWalk]

This is a job I wish I could do on my own, but unfortunately I live in a condo. If they catch you popping your hood some old hag b*tches that you were working on your vehicle.

zactly. i got caught rebuilding an 85 NightHawk in my bedroom back in the day. manager was pissed and couldn't figure out how i got it up to my third floor apt. she really freaked when she found my engine in pieces on the spare bathroom floor. got evicted; thankfully. there were no more hot chicks living in the apartments anymore so i needed to move anyway

[Beaugentry4]

Did you ever happen to get an estimate from the dealer to do the job? I'd say you saved at least 50%, maybe a bit more.

I never got a quote from the dealer, I guess I was just set on doing it myself. The $450 that I estimated in costs also included a few extra tools, RTV sealant, etc. If you had all of the tools, I think you could get the kit and coolant for closer to $400.

This is a job I wish I could do on my own, but unfortunately I live in a condo. If they catch you popping your hood some old hag b*tches that you were working on your vehicle.

Tell me about it, I live in an apartment! My apartment manager walked up on me half way through an oil change once. It didn't go well. Now I do all of my auto work at my dad's house, no matter how small the job. He lives 2 hours away but its worth the peace of mind knowing I won't be evicted!

[Beaugentry4]

And to be fair the 12 hours of labor also included draining, removing, and cleaning the transmission pan, and an oil change. I figured I'd knock out a few other dirty jobs while I had cardboard laid out to protect the garage floor. I was planning on draining and re-filling the rear diff. as well but the fill plug was giving me some trouble. I ended up running out of time. I'll deal with it another day......

[kerryman71]

Yeah, living in a condo or apartment complex definitely has its drawbacks. When I work on my truck in the bay at work, it's cleaner when I'm finished then when I started. I understand them being concerned about people making a mess in the parking lot, or it looking like a dump, but my answer to that is fine them if they don't clean up. I pay a condo fee each month. If I don't pay it and go to sell my property there's a lien on it. So if someone refuses to pay the fine attach a lien on the property so they can't sell it until they pay the fine. If they're renters (which most here are not) tell the owner that their tenant is refusing to pay the fine and if they don't a lien will be placed against the property.

I see more oil stains on the ground from people whose car is leaking than what would happen from me working on my truck.

John

[SuckersWalk]

I see more oil stains on the ground from people whose car is leaking than what would happen from me working on my truck.

screw banning assault weapons, we need to ban and confiscate dodges

[skilife]

$738.67 to be exact from the dealership. I too lived in an apartment situation
Wanted to get it done before we moved here to WV from the twin cities -MN this last fall.
Price is with the water pump getting replaced and new serp belt. I had already gotten the
Timing belt from TRDSPARKS.com. Nice work on getting the job done yourself!!

[Pro40Dually]

The starterbump worked like a charm!