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1Gen-TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2000 to 2006 Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "Brake Problems. Will Toyota Help?", within the 1Gen-Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
My 2002 Tundra just came back from the shop yesterday, and the brakes are still bad.
I bought the truck in Jan of 2003, and I took it to the dealer 3 times while it was under the warranty. It has 40,000 now, and is obviously out of warranty. The truck has a terrible vibration when I step on the brakes.
Yesterday they turned my drums and replaced the pads, and it still shakes something awful.
Do I have any recourse, and will Toyota help me get out from underneath this truck?
Three times to the shop under warranty
One time out of warranty, and there is still a terrible problem.
I don't see any recourse you have available. Not even close to a lemon-law issue.
Something like that would piss me off. If you're the same way, then look into either selling privately, or trading it in on a new tundra.
why trade??????? doesn't make any hell of since the problem is wide spread that I wouldnt even go there same truck same issues NO reason at all for trading ....Wait till the all new Tundra comes out in 2007 and let's see how bad the brakes get on the new tundra
I'll tell you once thing Toyota tried to buy me out on this topic Once and I called them again and told them if they dont have this madder fixed I'll take the needed step's On a Law suit (and that worked) they made an appointment at a dealership the following week and provided a loaner car and replaced with all new 03 brakes pad's etc etc (IN my case it pays to be a Bit?? after all spending the sum of money I payed on this first year truck vs any other truck I demand Better customer service and a stealership (dealership) who takes the time to get the ball rolling right ..In my opinion Toyota hasn't handled this Topic well Nor should they because doing a recall cost them big $$$$
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T3 Grill, Line X extra front Bumper coating (too many mod's to list)
T-Georgia, did they also replace the ABS components? I was curious that if the rotors and drums were true it may have been that. I guess I'm guessing like the dealer-mechs though.
T-Georgia, did they also replace the ABS components? I was curious that if the rotors and drums were true it may have been that. I guess I'm guessing like the dealer-mechs though.
Toyota Replaced the master calpiers with an improved design from the 03 up Tundra, new brakes pad's rotors and the dust shield was also replaced..They also didn't provide me any paperwork on what was replaced which to me seemed shadey But it's on file from what was mentioned at the dealership ..As far as your comment's on the ABs components look's like there was some new fitting's installed on the abs controler located to the left of my v8 (I do have the abs option on my tundra ) but I wasn't sure what was replaced on the abs end....
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T3 Grill, Line X extra front Bumper coating (too many mod's to list)
My 2002 Tundra just came back from the shop yesterday, and the brakes are still bad.
I bought the truck in Jan of 2003, and I took it to the dealer 3 times while it was under the warranty. It has 40,000 now, and is obviously out of warranty. The truck has a terrible vibration when I step on the brakes.
Yesterday they turned my drums and replaced the pads, and it still shakes something awful.
Do I have any recourse, and will Toyota help me get out from underneath this truck?
Three times to the shop under warranty
One time out of warranty, and there is still a terrible problem.
Thanks
if they fixed it three times under warranty, you have a case make your point to the deaker and threaten, they did it for me just the other day, i posted on a thread.
22k on my 2002 ac cab, did break tsb three times they tried last time at 14k still have vibration left front rotor is warpd, they never fixed my loose anttena, did one 02 sensor at 13k, just did jba headers and you can tell the o2 sensor on passenger side is all dirty and crusty the other is clean thats the one they changed, other than that i have no isues with the truck, the bigest isues are with the dealers in my area they suck, i would try and get them to fix my front rotor, but it takes so much of my time, thats what irritates me about the dealers they play around so you go away, thats got to come down from toyota or not.
does anybody think they would replace the rotor after the 3 years are up and only 22k, my truck is 3 years 8 months old.
i posted this a while ago since then, the dealer changed my rotors and pads free of charge, did an o2 sensor and the lower ball joints under recall, all no charge, if i didnt argue my point it would not have been done free
if they fixed it three times under warranty, you have a case make your point to the deaker and threaten, they did it for me just the other day, i posted on a thread.
22k on my 2002 ac cab, did break tsb three times they tried last time at 14k still have vibration left front rotor is warpd, they never fixed my loose anttena, did one 02 sensor at 13k, just did jba headers and you can tell the o2 sensor on passenger side is all dirty and crusty the other is clean thats the one they changed, other than that i have no isues with the truck, the bigest isues are with the dealers in my area they suck, i would try and get them to fix my front rotor, but it takes so much of my time, thats what irritates me about the dealers they play around so you go away, thats got to come down from toyota or not.
does anybody think they would replace the rotor after the 3 years are up and only 22k, my truck is 3 years 8 months old.
i posted this a while ago since then, the dealer changed my rotors and pads free of charge, did an o2 sensor and the lower ball joints under recall, all no charge, if i didnt argue my point it would not have been done free
dealerships in your area suxxx too Glad i aint the only one that feel's Toyota Stealerships are pretty dam bad on there tactics It's ok I tend to be a real nice guy intill they pop attitude with me all hell breaks lose being 27 well 28 pretty soon has it's adavanges dont mess with a young person they generally tell you where you go
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T3 Grill, Line X extra front Bumper coating (too many mod's to list)
there are a ton of posts on here how to fix your brakes yourself. They all sum up to aftermarket rotor and aftermarket pads. Some like me prefer the cryo-treated slotted rotors and kevlar pads, other just plain brembo or quality rotor and aftermarket pads. If I didn't drive up and down 4,000 ft everyday I would have stuck to the non-slotted rotors, but the occasional deer or elk in the road sometimes requires a quick hard stop.
I went through 4 sets of rotor, and 5 sets of pads by 50k miles. Since changing to the slotted cryo-hardened rotors and the kevlar pads I am at 93k miles now. So in 40k miles 20% of the pads are gone and the rotors are still good.
Let me share my views on the Tundra brake problems. I have been in the automotive service industry for almost 30 years and have specialized in brakes and suspension for over 20. I have only had my Tundra for a few months but I have already gone through the brake system myself. (I always do this first off when I buy a used vehicle regardless the brakes condition) My truck still has the type A original calipers and had no noticeable problems. I just know a few tricks to keep brake systems working great for a long time and I always work these things in as soon as I get a vehicle.
I believe the unfixable problems some are having is not the vehicle design but the service shops attempting the repairers. Example, Fireslayer said "they turned my drums and replaced the pads, and it still shakes something awful". I look at this and see a dealer mistake. First off why didn't they turn the rotors? This is why it still shakes. There is twice as much braking pressure on the front brakes of this truck unloaded so why would they turn the drums to eliminate a shake? Drum can cause a shake but this is unusual and hard to feel.
Pulsating brakes have plagued every car maker. Toyota is no exception. GM has done as much research in this area as they have done with brake squeaks.
Toyota now recommends that the front rotors be turned only with a on the car lath. Dose your dealer have one? Maybe not. Did they check your rotor run out with a dial indicator? I bet not.
Lastly I will give you one more clue, when you have your tires rotated are they reinstalled with an impact wrench and then torque? Or do they torque the wheels at all?
The number one cause of warped rotors is wheel lugs not being torqued properly. In my experience slide on "Hat style" rotor are the most susceptible to wheel torque problems.
The number one cause of warped rotors is wheel lugs not being torqued properly. In my experience slide on "Hat style" rotor are the most susceptible to wheel torque problems.
Mike
Mike:
Can you explain how lug torque affect rotor warpage and different styles of rotor?
I think Fireslayer used the wrong term for his rotors being turned (drums). I'm sure the dealer used a lathe since I don't know any other way to do it.
I've rotated my tires many times and don't use a torque wrench. I use the impact til somewhat tight then use a lug wrench to make em tight enough to be able to get em off again. Every tire place I go to for balancing and the like uses a torque limiting impact wrench then a torque wrench to finish the job.
The number one cause of warped rotors is wheel lugs not being torqued properly. In my experience slide on "Hat style" rotor are the most susceptible to wheel torque problems.
Mike
No it's more like a design flaw used on the 00 to 02 Tundra . The Cause were the calpiers used on the 00 to 02 Tundra had a serious design flaw on the 4 piston design calpiers used that Toyota upgraded the part for the 03 up Tundras and phased in a TSB to upgrade older Tundra's Mine has this revised part..The newer part is claimed to have a better brake contact with less vibe's and issues..If anybody is having Vibe issues my advice call Toyota like I did and take the needed action
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T3 Grill, Line X extra front Bumper coating (too many mod's to list)
I am not sure why Toyota changes the calipers to fix a pulsation. I do see from the bulletin that the pads have changed. It is most likely that Toyota was after a different pad contact area which mean the caliper would need to be changed.
What is interesting is that in the bulletin they call for the wheel bearing to be changed too. This seems dose seem strange.
But, you will see that they are very clear that an on the car lath must be used. This machine turn the rotors while they are on the car. Taking them off to a bench lath to turn and not making more run out, require a highly skilled operator and a lot of set up and checking. I can't see a flat rate guy at a dealer doing this all this.
As far as torquing lug nuts, there is no such thing as a torque limiting impact. ( there is a device called torque sticks which can limit the torque but are not very actuate) If someone put on your wheels with an impact and then goes over them with a torque wrench and you don't see them back off some of the lugs then they are not right.
The wheel torque is 90 lbft and this is not as important as the fact that the lugs all get torqued evenly. Lugs at different torques will cause uneven stress on the hub and rotor. When the rotor gets hot, this stress is transferred into the rotor surface causing it to warp. Why it seem to affect hat style rotors more, I am not sure, this is a personal observation.
When GM was having mass vibration problems with their full size front wheel drive cars about 10 years ago, the problem could be eliminated by making sure there was minimal rotor run out and then torquing the lug nuts. It's a simple solution and it works.
The main thing here is making sure the rotor has little run out when installed and that it stays this way. The Tundra uses what's called a "fixed" brake caliper. It can not float with the rotor as pin mounted (sliding) caliper can. This makes it highly susceptible to run out pulsation.
There are other things on the truck that could effect this too. I suspect that the rear height sensing valve may not be set right. This was a big problem with Toyota's first mini van. The valve would go bad and these van would eat front brakes. Burn them up in 10,000 miles. We would replace this valve and the problem was solved. Something else to think about!
Mike
Mike hit it on the head. Another important factor is individual driving style- some folks ride the brakes more than others. Combine these and voila warped rotors
I had the TSB performed way back when and never had a problem with it again. Upgrading to a set of cryotreated rotors should help
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I think Fireslayer used the wrong term for his rotors being turned (drums). I'm sure the dealer used a lathe since I don't know any other way to do it.
Actually, I didn't use the wrong term for this. My service guy, told me that they turned the drums, and it said the same thing on my satatement.
I was curious as to why they worked on the rears, and he said that that was where the problem was. The last time that I was in, they replaced the rear axels.
Well, a few days after I posted this, I held the steering wheel very lightly as I braked, and it was obvious that the vibration was in the steering wheel, not my seat. The dealer told me that if the rear brakes were bad, then I'd feel it in my seat.... Bad front brakes, I'd feel it in the steering wheel.
So, what that means is they worked on the wrong end.
The problem won't go away if they turn the rotors, it will put a bandaid on the problem. I'll be back in another 5,000 miles with the same problem.
I asked the service mgr if this dealership would assist me in getting out of this truck, and he said that they would NOT.
Should I contact Toyota Corp?