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1Gen-TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2000 to 2006 Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "Did the Timing Belt Today @ 92,200 Mi.", within the 1Gen-Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
Well, after much thought I decided to replace my timing belt today. I bought the belt from Toyota for $34 and the serpentine belt also but it actually cost more than the timing belt at $59. Go figure. Took about 8 hours as I took my time since I had not done this type of work in about 20 years or so. Nothing difficult about it, just a lot of un-bolting and bolting back. No special tools needed, even the crank pully came right off. I just could force my self to pay $350 to $650 for something most anyone with average mechanical skills can do. And no, I did not change the water pump or seals or anything else. Everthing was fine and who knows, I could have purchased a defective water pump new. I know mine is good. If it fails 20K down the road I will replace it then. It won't cause any damage like a belt breaking will. Just a slight inconvience.
What did your old timing belt look like?? Most I have talked to said it looked like new and I saw one that had 106.000mi and it looked like new, has anyone gone 120,000+mi. with the belt?? Reason I ask is that I talked with mfg reps thru my work and they say they should go 500,000mi on the the new belt engineering. Gates website says 60,000mi. (they mfg the belt) Course I like everyone else, is not going to be the first to try it!!! but maybe someone with a company truck with alot of miles on it has some input??
Last edited by Tundradad; 09-26-2005 at 07:30 PM.
Reason: not finished
I'm up to 119,000 on what I believe is the originall belt.
Is this a non-interference engine?
Th 2uz-fe is an interference engine
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I think the Tundra V-8 is one of only four (?) interference engines with timing belts made by Toyota. The other interference engines have timing chains.
Quote:
127,000 on my '03 V-6, still on the original belt and it looks fine (no dry rotting/cracking).
You can't see the timing belt without some removals on the front of the engine. What you can see is the accessory drive belt. The recommended timing belt change interval for both the V-6 and V-8 is 90,000 miles. If the timing belt breaks, you engine is trash.
Ken
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The belt looked fine with no cracking or abrasion wear. There was no markings of any kind on the original belt so I couldn't tell who Toyota sourced it from. I did mark the belt before removing it to verify tick marks with the new belt and it appears the belt had not streched at all in 92K miles. I am really quite impressed with the quality of belts and hoses now days. I found absolutly no hardening of the hoses and seals either. Vehicles are just made out of much better materials today. Still one would be wise to follow the manufactures recommendations on replacement intervals. Do the work yourself though as it is simple but just takes a while due to all the parts to remove and put back.
You can't see the timing belt without some removals on the front of the engine. What you can see is the accessory drive belt. The recommended timing belt change interval for both the V-6 and V-8 is 90,000 miles. If the timing belt breaks, you engine is trash.
Ken
I had a 88 Tercel Junker that I drove to work for a year or so. Buddy gave it to me. Driving down the interstate doing max speed(about 55), and the belt broke. Had it towed home, sat in the drive way for a couple of weeks, and I finally lifted the hood. Broke the belt cover, belt was shredded. I removed the belt, bought a new one, and drove the car for a couple more months. I couldn't believe it didn't toast the motor. Then, I blew a tire. That was gonna cost $35, so I gave it away.
I took my wife's CRV in a month or so ago for a tbelt replacement. It had 116k on it, and called for a new tbelt at 110k. Told them to do it all, belts, hoses, pump, tensiioner. Got back to pick it up, bill was $600. Still a little steep, but I was expecting over a grand. Technician came in and told me he didn't do the hoses or tensioner. Said it was a waste of money, the hoses have at least a ten year life, and the tensioner on my year are supposed to be real good, and have no problems. I was impressed, they could have ripped me off, and didn't. I usually do all my own work, and gave up on mechanics long ago, but I was pleasantly surprised by this particular Honda dealer.
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I'm trying change the timing belt & can't get the pully bolt off
Glad to hear you didn't need any special tools. I've got a stupid question then. How did you get the main pully bolt off? I'm in the middle of trying to do the same but even with a 230 ft-lb impact wrench I cannot get the pully bolt to budge. What did you do? One more stupid question, the main bolt is conventional thread? Specifically it does't thread in in reverse? (counter clockwise)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jqqd
Well, after much thought I decided to replace my timing belt today. I bought the belt from Toyota for $34 and the serpentine belt also but it actually cost more than the timing belt at $59. Go figure. Took about 8 hours as I took my time since I had not done this type of work in about 20 years or so. Nothing difficult about it, just a lot of un-bolting and bolting back. No special tools needed, even the crank pully came right off. I just could force my self to pay $350 to $650 for something most anyone with average mechanical skills can do. And no, I did not change the water pump or seals or anything else. Everthing was fine and who knows, I could have purchased a defective water pump new. I know mine is good. If it fails 20K down the road I will replace it then. It won't cause any damage like a belt breaking will. Just a slight inconvience.
The belt looked fine with no cracking or abrasion wear. There was no markings of any kind on the original belt so I couldn't tell who Toyota sourced it from. I did mark the belt before removing it to verify tick marks with the new belt and it appears the belt had not streched at all in 92K miles. I am really quite impressed with the quality of belts and hoses now days. I found absolutly no hardening of the hoses and seals either. Vehicles are just made out of much better materials today. Still one would be wise to follow the manufactures recommendations on replacement intervals. Do the work yourself though as it is simple but just takes a while due to all the parts to remove and put back.
Too bad the people that make the belts and hoses don't also make the paint for our Toyota's! It would be nice to go a week without a new chip in the paint. I swear just looking at the truck funny can cause a chip...
I know mine is good. If it fails 20K down the road I will replace it then. It won't cause any damage like a belt breaking will. Just a slight inconvience.
Actually, since it is driven by the timing belt, water pump failure could cause the belt to go slack and skip teeth, or it could seize and burn the belt, causing it to strip and fail.
The idlers, tensioner, and cam/crank seals can wait until the next change at 180k, but for $100, the water pump is a very good idea.
Also a good idea to change the thermostat while you're in there.
What did your old timing belt look like?? Most I have talked to said it looked like new and I saw one that had 106.000mi and it looked like new, has anyone gone 120,000+mi. with the belt?? Reason I ask is that I talked with mfg reps thru my work and they say they should go 500,000mi on the the new belt engineering. Gates website says 60,000mi. (they mfg the belt) Course I like everyone else, is not going to be the first to try it!!! but maybe someone with a company truck with alot of miles on it has some input??
I did mine on my 2000 tundra Jan of this year it had around 114k on the engine...I did the water pump all the timing ider's the belt sit's on and the cam and crank seal's too bad it couldn't tell how this v8 engine would go till it died My truck was totaled sept 8....I have the orginal timing water pump and the belt's ill post some pictures of them tommorrow..The belt had some life on it was overdue and didn't appear to badly used.....Also anybody looking for Oem Toyota part's at killer pricers try www.anythingtoyota.com (ask for BILL) there fair honest and beet's the Markup MY Georgia Toyota stealership like to think there charging me
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T3 Grill, Line X extra front Bumper coating (too many mod's to list)
The thing about timing belts is if they look bad, they are already missing teeth.
I've change three "good" timing belts and four or five "broken" ones in my time wrenching.
There was no discernible difference between any of them except for a couple of missing teeth... always at the bottom of the crank... never stripped any on the camshaft.
I suppose it's possible that the teeth were shedding one at a time until the last one finally let go that caused the crank to strip out... but it's always been a group of 4-5 teeth together at the bottom of the crank... I've never seen an isolated missing tooth anywhere else on a bad belt.
No cracking, even between teeth when bent backwards, no exposed threads on the edges... just nice, black belt.
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Glad to hear you didn't need any special tools. I've got a stupid question then. How did you get the main pully bolt off? I'm in the middle of trying to do the same but even with a 230 ft-lb impact wrench I cannot get the pully bolt to budge. What did you do? One more stupid question, the main bolt is conventional thread? Specifically it does't thread in in reverse? (counter clockwise)
I used an air impact wrench. It was rated at 500 ft lbs in reverse. But it did struggle a bit with the crank pully bolt. I do question the ratings on these air impact wrenchs though as mine does not seem like it has 500 ft. lbs of torque. The pully bolt is standard clockwise to tighten.
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Did the Timing Belt Today @ 92,200 Mi.
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