You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
1Gen-TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2000 to 2006 Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "Timing belt change = damaged heater controls", within the 1Gen-Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
Took my truck in to the local dealer (stealer) have the timing belt and water pump replaced today. When I left it was about 40 degrees and I had the defrost/heat on. Worked great. AC worked great last weekend.
The service dept calls me and tells me that my truck is done but the heater is not working right. He goes on to explain "that we've seen this before" and the cable/the heater control unit and that valve on the firewall (can't remember name right now) all needs to be replaced to the tune of $ 400. I told him I'd be happy to talk with them when I pick the truck up but not to do any work. Now why if one compnonent should fail (though I think they broke it) would they want to replace all three? Sounds fishy to me. Any ideas on what I can do? It worked fine when I dropped it off now its broken, my word against theirs. I only took it to them because if I did the work and say got a bad timing belt (rare but could happen) I wouldn't be covered if it damage the engine.
Take a good look at the parts. The heater valve and cable are as far away from the timing belt as they could be. How could some ham-handed employee screwed the controls up? Trying to force them the wrong way? I don't know how all three heater parts could fail at the same time, and haven't heard of any of the parts failing. If you find out that they're lying to you, make an appointment with the dealership general manager or owner to complain about the service manager. Employees can do things wrong, but they've got to make them right.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
The only thing I can think would get them messing with the heater is when they replace the water pump, they run the truck to get the thermostat to open to burp the cooling system and check the coolant level. I'm not sure what the reason would be but if they didn't scew with it how did they 'notice' it was broken and then describe to me exactly how it was 'probably' damaged by 'me'.
I agree with agree, they most likely got air trapped in the heater core. The heater hoses are high up on the firewall and this could easily happen,
Tell them you used it coming in and it was fine and you do not except their explanation. If you want to get technical with them ask them if they used an "Air Lift" to bleed the cooling system after it was done. This tool uses shop air to create a vacuum in the system. This way all air is expelled as the coolant is sucked into the system. I love this tool, works great on the toughest systems.
Mike
Well we had a pretty good arguement with a fellow in the service dept. The service manager was gone when I got there. Basically he said that if I "swear up and down" (direct quote, his words not mine) that it wasn't broken when I came in we'd "work something out" I disassembled the control cover got the temperature controls out and the knob that closes the hot water valve on the firewall has piece broken off and the valve will not close unless I replace the part or turn into MacGuyver. I think the part is $ 230ish in price. I'm not sure what I should ask for. I'm willing to install the part if they will give me one. I still think it was poor form for them to try to hit me for $ 500 and three parts when only one is damaged. As for who damaged it I can't prove it was them but the thing worked when I brought it in.
Talk with the service manager. Show him the two good parts and the one broken part and ask why they wanted you to pay for all three new parts. Don't talk too much. Let him talk himself into a hole. Don't argue. Be businesslike. Be business-courteous. Stand your ground and demand what's right, but never shout. A very good tactic is to say as little as possible and let them hem, haw, and finally give in to you. Of course, if they clam-up, then you have to keep the discussion going.
Maybe the mechanic tried to move the heater control via the cable from the engine department...gave it a yank with pliers, and the wrong way, of course. And, it is entirely likely that the mechanic is lying to the service manager, or just doesn't have a clue that he actually did the damage.
In any case, "work things out"...new control installed and an apology to you. After the work is done to your satisfaction, do have a chat with the general manager or owner.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
As far as another dealer goes not a chance its 120 miles to the next dealer. Do they know this? Absolutely, which is why I've only had service performed by them 3 times. All 3 times I had problems.
I usually don't yell, not my style, I'll stop in tomorrow to talk with them. My basic approach is that I don't want something I'm not entitled to but I do want to be treated fairly. If the mechanic is so on top of his game that he noticed the controls were damaged why didn't he notice the drivers side manifold leak I'm almost certain I hear each morning? The reason I'm putting on JBA headers this week .
Having done the timing belt myself on two of those trucks - I can't imagine the water valve on the firewall being broken during the normal course of the job. The only way I could imaging it being broken is if someone was standing or kneeling in the engine bay prying on something and a foot slipped and broke the valve. This would seem very likely if they had been working on the headers, but there is just no reason to be back there doing a timing belt.
I would also think (possible incorrect) that if I were working on a truck and broke something - I would realize it and take care of it before the customer noticed. I am sure the shops have some sort of account for screw-ups.
On the other hand this tech may have already broken so many things that if they find out he broke one more water valve he will lose his job.
anyway - good luck
__________________
2000 4x4 LTD AC Sunfire Red - Sold w/ 200K
2005 4x4 LTD AC Phantom grey w/ dark grey - Sold w/ 20K
Alpine CDA-9835, W/ KCA-420i, Focal 165KP front, Focal 165V Rear speakers. powered by 2 MMats SQ2150 amps. Alpine MRD-M501 powering a JL Stealthbox with Infinity Perfect 10D VQ
Sound deadened everything with Cascade VB2HD, and Dynamat Extreme
2005 G35 Sedan 6MT - Returned due to paint work on a 'new' car.
2006 G35 Sedan 6MT - all stock. Where do I hook up the trailer and where's the bass?
Well I went into my dealer (GLACIER TOYOTA KALISPELL, MT) their great offer was we'll install the part free if you'll buy the part for $ 300.00. My response was no thank you, (yeah I want you touching my truck after this last time?) sell me the part for a better price and I'll install it. They're response was $ 250 and that's the owner talking. A simple search online yielded a price of $ 232.00 So they're not doing me a favor. I bought the part from a salvage yard in Spokane today for $46.00 plus shipping.
Glacier Toyota proving once again that they don't have a clue.
If you live in Northwest Montana do yourself a favor and drive the extra distance to Missoula.
This is the third time they've treated me poorly. That's too bad for them I've sold more than a couple trucks off their lot.