2000 Tundra / Brakes / Front End / New Member

[Carro]

A new member and thanks for all the great information, what a great site. Just purchased a 2000 Tundra with 75,000 miles and the truck has all the related problems with the front and rear brakes. The dealer wants "real money" to replace with all Toyota parts, and while I will do so where necessary it appears that after-market parts are available for a much lower price. I am not looking for the race ready parts list, but for the day to day working and towing parts list. As an example I see that Bendix makes a set of replacement calipers that are more reasonably priced.

1-What manufactures of replacement brake parts would other members recommend for a solid daily work truck at rock bottom (but still safe) prices. The truck is 2 wheel drive without anti-lock. If part numbers are available that would be great!!

2-With all the shaking for the last 75,000 miles does this mean other front suspension parts need replacement to remove the shake, or has it all been brake related?

3-The steering is very light or quick (overly quick). Am I correct that the DJ alignment settings will slow/improve the steering somewhat?

4-The tires have about 35,000 miles and are dipped and cupped badly. Before I put on a new set of tires would like to see what the cause of this problem might be. I have not seen a thread that talks about bad tires at 35,000 miles. I would have expected tires that needed replacement, but these tires have a problem that makes me believe other factors are at work. The truck was used to haul golf clubs and was purchased and driven in Florida as a daily driver, so it was not worked hard. Could be this is "normal", but I believe something else is not working correctly.

Thanks in advance for the help

[MOREPOWER]

theres many threads on this do a search good luck

[KLS]

1--Wagner (Thermoquiet), Raybestos (PG Plus), Brembo rotors, Performance Friction pads. If you need rebuilt calipers, consider the 2003 calipers. The shop will have to do some cutting on the backing plate to fit the calipers, buy new brake tubing, and get the pads to fit the new calipers. Be sure the shop checks the runout of any new or resufaced rotors with a dial indicator. .007" is max allowable runout, and less is better. An on-car brake lathe is best for turning the rotors, if needed. Be sure to have the brake fluid completely flushed and renewed. It does absorb moisture and boil at lower temperatures.
2--Ditto on an alignment on a Hunter rack where the toe-in and camber are set to the exact center, and the caster set to the max allowable. Get the 4-wheel thrust alignment. Any good alignment shop will also check for worn parts.
3--Likely
4--Maybe worn out shocks, or the tires were never balanced right--or out of round.


Ken