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1Gen-TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2000 to 2006 Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "who changes their own oil?", within the 1Gen-Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
i noticed... about everyone uses Mobil 1 oil. is there a peticular reason for this? i use Royal Purple in my AE86 and was wondering if i should use Royal Purple for my Tundra?
i noticed... about everyone uses Mobil 1 oil. is there a peticular reason for this? i use Royal Purple in my AE86 and was wondering if i should use Royal Purple for my Tundra?
Hey,
I use RP through out the drivetrain. Good stuff. My UOA's have been consistently good. My last one had 9K on the oil and still had good #'s....
M1 is sold everywhere and RP is not.....
I've run Mobil1 5W-30 for 150,000 mile in my 2000 model. Changed by me every 9-12000 miles with either a toyota filter or mobil1 filter. I once carried my car and had one of the Pep Boys change my transmission fluid. They drained it but did not replace it. Never since has anyone else touched one of my vehicles. Just switched over to 5W-20 Mobil1 to see if any increase in fuel efficiency can be found.
Last edited by JDSTOY; 12-30-2007 at 04:18 PM.
Reason: spelling error
I'm currently using Pennzoil Platinum 5W20 and a Trufilter stanless stell oil filter. I'm also starting to hear less valvetrain noise since I changed from Mobil 1 to Pennzoil Platiunum.
I use 0w-30 oil, SDF-57 oil filter, and EOa air filter all being amsoil. What is nice about this stuff is you only need to change it once a year, or every 25,000 miles, wichever one comes first (which is usually the year). I have used amsoil for over 15 years in all of my vehichles (4).
Haven't been at the forum for quite a while but will throw my hat in the ring regarding oil changes. I have 106,000 on my 2000 Tundra with absolutly no problems. Used Quaker State 10W-40 fleet oil for about 80K miles since that is what I used in my tractors and motorized farm equipment. Then the wife bought a 2002 Acura MDX which recommended a 5W-30 oil so I switched both the Tundra and her car to Mobil I 5W-30. I have always done all my maintenance here in my shop except for the timing belt change which I simply didn't have time to deal with. We do have a good dealer in Santa Rosa, CA so he did it for about the average price included all new belts and hoses. Front brakes, new shocks and three sets of tires are the sum total of replacements. I have owned several pickup over the past 20 years and none of them even came close to the value and pleasure I have gotten from my Tundra. I would love to have a 2008 but just can't justify getting rid of the perfectly good one I have now. Maybe I wish that it would start giving me trouble? (not really)
My dealership will change my oil for $25. They use Mobil 1 and Toyota filters. I rotate my tires every other oil change. I must be shopping at the wrong place, last I checked, 7 qts of Mobil 1 was like $22 and a Toyota filter was $5 or so. I can't do it myself for that price. My wife's car is a different story. I do it, the dealer wants almost $40 bucks to do it. I don't trust these "quick change places."
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'05 Tundra Stepside
2.5" Daystar suspension lift in front
1.5" block lift in rear
Magnaflow exhaust
17"x8" American Eagle wheels
285/70/17 Tires (coming soon)
LETS GO MOUNTAINEERS!!!
Im 17 and i even do mine on my own, because my dad always did his own vehicals and we both dont have much trust for someone else doing it. I usually use a fram oil filter and 10w30 non-synthetic oil in my 2000 tundra v8. Tomorw ill probably buy 5w30 or 5w20 synthetic. What do you all suggest??
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2000 Tundra 2wd 4.7L
5% tint all around
Flowmaster 40 series dual outlets dumped
Removed Resonator
6000k HID system
DRL in fog housing
Kenwood DNX-7100 with Garmin built in
Updated Aug. 24 2008
I don't care for OEM filters. I use Motorcraft FL1a or wix1515 oversized oil filters.
The engine gets 5w20 or 5w30 M1 since wallyworld usually has cheap prices on them 5 quart jugs. But, the Pzl/QS buy BOGO, and Castrol rebated oil has also found shelf space. 7 quarts of full synth oil and big quality filter usually cost about $20. Why would I let anyone, quicklube, or dealer clowns charge me more for less?
The ATF is drained every other oil change with Castrol Import. T-IV is overrated.
M1 or RP ATF is used as PSF which is siphoned/refilled at every oil change. A quart usually is good for 2-3 siphon/refills.
The 'end and xcase have Redline 75w90 and get changed every 30k.
BTW, cutting open filters for looksy is meaningless. I haven't seen ANY UOA/PCs that prove that ANY OE filter is better then the store bought ones. If anything, some of the non-OE filters(Pureone, FramX2, Amsoil, Wix(napagold), M1) are superior to filtering and holding capacity. Anyone selecting a filter, on the grounds of it looking pretty when cut open, is equal to deer freezing when looking at pretty headlights.
When using a quality oil, especially any full synthetic, oil additives should NOT be used. Lucas thickener is a joke. It thickens the oil, has NO AW/EP/TBN additives, no antifoam additives..... and is a waste of money. If you want an oil additive, VOA it and see if it offers any substance. Many additives do not. When you add a pint or quart of oil additive(worthless fluff filler), you actually dilute the additive package and risk reducing the effectiveness of your oil.
I use Mobil 1 5w30 and M1 filters. Just bought 16 qts. of M1 ATF Mercon V (supposed to be compatible for Dex III specs.). Changed the oil over last weekend at about 4k since the last change. I usually change at 3k intervals but am thinking about extending to 4-5k.
But it's difficult to make the move because I've been changing oil @ 3k w/ all my vehicles for years now. Incidentally, the oil came out pretty dark after only 4k on it. After I do the planned ATF flush (I'm going to drop the pan and then drain from ATF cooler and fill via dipstic slot), I'll probably just do a simple drain and fill every 3-4 oil changes.
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