Tundra transmission problems (failure) -- V8 automatic

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Thread: Tundra transmission problems (failure) -- V8 automatic

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    Exclamation Tundra transmission problems (failure) -- V8 automatic

    My transmission has been acting up recently, and I'd like to get some feedback on the Tundra transmission problems. For people who have had to replace their transmission due to failure, what have been the symptoms leading up to replacement? My Tundra was purchased in July of 1999 and currently has almost 60K miles. Recently when I move the shift lever to "D", the transmission has been reluctant to go into gear unless I push a little on the gas pedal after selecting "D". This only happens when the engine/trans is cold (when it warms up there is no noticeable problem), and only in "D", not in "R". I drain and refill the trans at every oil change. The pan has never been dropped, so the screen and magnets have never been cleaned. I'm thinking of taking it to a mechanic friend and having him drop the pan, clean the screen and magnets (inspecting the magnet particles), then reassembling and flushing the transmission with his BG flush machine. Some websites state that Toyota has a problem with Tundra transmissions, others state that the Tundra is relatively trouble free in the drive-line (with the obvious exception of the rear axle seals -- mine started leaking shortly after the warranty expired). Give me some feedback with your thoughts.

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    Mine shifted into 3rd very harsh after a wheelin' trip. 2nd time it happened I drop the pan and found chunks. The weakest link in our trannys is the OD Planetary Gears. Look in my pics and you'll see what they looked like.

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    My tranny would have a delay when shifting to reverse followed by a clunk. I only noticed it pulling out of my driveway. Always immediately after start up when the truck was still cold. Tranny replaced at 17,000 miles .
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    Question symptom UPDATE

    OK, guy with the transmission (?) problem here again,
    I was just outside checking my transmission fluid level (it's fine and nice red color) and have this symptom update/clarification to report: When I shift the truck into "D" the transmission does engage first gear... it probably always has engaged properly. What happens when I go to press the gas and move forward is that it feels as though the parking brake is still applied.... meaning I need to give it extra gas to overcome the resistance of the "parking brake". Once I get past that point, the transmission does its job, as usual. I was also thinking that maybe the parking brake really was still applied, so I did this test: I parked the truck on a very mild incline and shifted to "D"... the truck stayed put when I released the brake, then, when I shifted to "N" the truck started to roll backwards... indicating that the parking brake was actually releasing properly. When I come to a stop... right before the stop... the truck again feels as though the parking brake is still applied and stops on it's own in situations where it should keep rolling very very slowly (and does continue to roll slowly if I shift the transmission to "N" shortly before motion ceases). What do these symptoms suggest? Any help is appreciated.

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    Frozen/sticking brake Caliper or rear shoes sticking.

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    you just drain and refill your tanny fluid??? you should be flushing it, theres alot of fluid that stays in your tranny so when you just exhange the fluid in the oil pan your not getting much of the oil, you should also change the filter.

    Oh and I have 30k miles on my truck, I tow HEAVY loads (8000lbs + at times), and drive the truck hard, not one problem here with the tranny.... that being said, hopefully its something simple like brake caliper sticking or something, because in my eyes the tundra tranny are very strong (compared to chevy trannys that can't seem to go longer the 100k)...
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    Default another UPDATE

    Me again,
    Good suggestions. I will check into them.
    However, I just talked to a friend who has a 2000 Tundra with the same transmission symptoms when the engine is cold... something's up. I'll keep you posted.
    Please keep sending in your suggestions.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lawnmowing20837
    My transmission has been acting up recently, and I'd like to get some feedback on the Tundra transmission problems. For people who have had to replace their transmission due to failure, what have been the symptoms leading up to replacement? My Tundra was purchased in July of 1999 and currently has almost 60K miles. Recently when I move the shift lever to "D", the transmission has been reluctant to go into gear unless I push a little on the gas pedal after selecting "D". This only happens when the engine/trans is cold (when it warms up there is no noticeable problem), and only in "D", not in "R". I drain and refill the trans at every oil change. The pan has never been dropped, so the screen and magnets have never been cleaned. I'm thinking of taking it to a mechanic friend and having him drop the pan, clean the screen and magnets (inspecting the magnet particles), then reassembling and flushing the transmission with his BG flush machine. Some websites state that Toyota has a problem with Tundra transmissions, others state that the Tundra is relatively trouble free in the drive-line (with the obvious exception of the rear axle seals -- mine started leaking shortly after the warranty expired). Give me some feedback with your thoughts.
    You must have one of the first Tundras off the line 07/99. What is the number on your rad cradle? The first Tundra would be 00001.

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    Give Auto-Rx a try in your transmission. Add 6 oz. to your transmission and drive between 1000-1500 miles. Then do your own manual transmission flush. I've read the instructions over and over and over and it's pretty easy!
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    This sounds like a line pressure problem to me. For some reason you are not developing enough pressure to applied the forward clutch pack. As you bring up the RPM's enough pressure is developed and the clutch pack engages.
    I had a similar problem with a Chrysler transmission. In this case it was faults seals in the clutch pack that would leak by when the unit was cold. As it warmed up and everything expanded, and it would seal better and not be a problem.
    This could be a pump or pump pressure regulator problem also. Many newer electronic transmission use the computer to regulate line pressure. I don't know if Toyota does this.
    You might have it checked for codes first, and a line pressure test performed. An additive that swells seals may work, but just put of the emendable.
    One reasons I bought a Toyota was because of the problems I've had with GM and Chrysler transmissions in the past. Make ya wanta shift gears yourself again.
    Good luck!
    Mike

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    Good suggestions... more things to look into. For the person who asked "What is the number on your rad cradle?"... what is a rad cradle? The last 4 digits on my VIN (after the zeros) are 3850.

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    I'd drain and clean the transmission pan, refill, and clean it with [url-www.auto-rx.net]Auto-Rx[/url] for 1500 miles. If you find chunks of metal in the pan, not just the usual shavings on the magnets, check local independent transmission shops for repair costs.

    After the cleaning, I'd install an inline transmission filter.


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    Quote Originally Posted by KLS
    I'd drain and clean the transmission pan, refill, and clean it with [url-www.auto-rx.net]Auto-Rx[/url] for 1500 miles. If you find chunks of metal in the pan, not just the usual shavings on the magnets, check local independent transmission shops for repair costs.

    After the cleaning, I'd install an inline transmission filter.


    Ken
    My local shops were asking more than it would cost to get a refurbed one from the dealer.

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    Exclamation Solution Found!

    Problem fixed!!
    It was my rear drum brakes dragging! For some reason they have the ability to drag in forward but not reverse. My mechanic had over adjusted them recently. Anyway, I'm seriously considering upgrading to the Sequoia rear disc brakes... I can't stand these drums! Anyone have experience with the rear disc changeover?

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    My opinion is rear discs are a waste on pickups and front wheel drive cars. Here's why, line pressure must be dropped on these applications to keep the rear brakes from locking up in less then perfect traction conditions such as the rain or severe panic stops. More or less it 80% front to 20% rear on Frt wheel drive cars and with a unloaded pickup 90% 10%.
    Disc brakes are very sensitive to the elements. So if they are not used 100% all the time the disc will rust the slides will rust and they just plain go to hell. Toyota uses a load sensing valve and then later used the ABS to adjust loaded and un loaded brake pressure to keep the rears from locking up. So unless you run around heavily loaded most of the time, you will have much less problems with the drum brakes.
    A few years back when I did brake work every day these vehicles with rear disc had the most failures and cost the customer the most money.
    Glad to hear your problem was not the trans!
    jjsinaz likes this.

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