Brake Problems

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  • 2 Post By SuckersWalk

Thread: Brake Problems

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    Default Brake Problems

    The problem: moderate shimmy/loping consistent with warped rotors when braking from any speed. I've had the rotors turned and put on new Raybetos pads, but the problem returns. 2000 2X tundra, 60K miles. Has anyone come up with a solution with which they are satisfied? Am considering replacing rotors with slotted/drilled rotors and new pads, but looking for suggestions from someone who has found satisfaction in fixing the now famous Tundra brake problem.

    I look forward to your comments.

    Thanks,
    Cowbell

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    Supporter tuckerinspired's Avatar
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    Cowbell, this being my first reply/post on TS...I too am very concerned with front brake vibrating. I have spent prob around 5-6 hours researching various problems with the 2002 SR5 2WD and the brake thing has come up alot. My truck definetly has the vibrating problem, and I am also wondering how to tackle and solve the problem one time around. Some solutions say the rear brakes are not doing enough of the braking and that they need to be cleaned, lubricated and tightened. Other solutions say the front rotors are warped and they need to be on-the-car turned. The TSB states new calipers, seals and pads are the solution. So, I am not really sure what to do or fix.

    tuckerinspired

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    I knew I wasn't alone...let's see if an expert comes back with the answer.

    Cowbell

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    Default Brake Fix Recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by cowbell
    The problem: moderate shimmy/loping consistent with warped rotors when braking from any speed. I've had the rotors turned and put on new Raybetos pads, but the problem returns. 2000 2X tundra, 60K miles. Has anyone come up with a solution with which they are satisfied? Am considering replacing rotors with slotted/drilled rotors and new pads, but looking for suggestions from someone who has found satisfaction in fixing the now famous Tundra brake problem.

    I look forward to your comments.

    Thanks,
    Cowbell
    Welcome to TS.
    There is a continuous and steady stream of people on this board reporting the same problem. There are TSBs that address vibration caused by the front and rear brakes and how to determine which is the culprit.

    Here's a recent thread that has some good info relating mostly to the front brakes. http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...ighlight=brake

    Try the search function on this web site. It's not difficult at all. I recommend doing word searches of thread titles versus their content using keywords Pads, and Rotors in addition to Brakes and Problems.

    There is quite a good depth of knowledge by the members of this forum who have helped me greatly. If you have any other questions, I am sure someone can point you in the right direction, especially when it comes to brake issues on our trucks.

    Good luck.


    Paul
    Completed Mods:
    S&S long tube headers
    Brembo rotors
    TSB caliper upgrade
    Hawk LTS brake pads
    Stainless steel braided brake lines
    Total Chaos steering rack bushings
    Alignment to DJ's specs
    Century cap
    Line-X
    XM satellite radio module (connected to Pioneer head unit)
    Instrument cluster LED upgrade

    Future Mods:
    Rearview camera system
    BA Muffler (on order)
    Sound deadener
    Fusion Drive
    Flux Capacitor Control Unit (FCCU)

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    Default Brake problems.

    Quote Originally Posted by cowbell
    The problem: moderate shimmy/loping consistent with warped rotors when braking from any speed. I've had the rotors turned and put on new Raybetos pads, but the problem returns. 2000 2X tundra, 60K miles. Has anyone come up with a solution with which they are satisfied? Am considering replacing rotors with slotted/drilled rotors and new pads, but looking for suggestions from someone who has found satisfaction in fixing the now famous Tundra brake problem.

    I look forward to your comments.

    Thanks,
    Cowbell
    Cowbell,
    I'm no expert on this issue but I do have first hand knowledge of the problem.And it burns me also.
    I replaced my front pads and rotors with Raybestoes units and the problem went away but not for ever it came back after about 10k. I've cleaned and lubed the rear brakes,adjusted them,and it gets better. Now it comes and goes it helps to depress the parking brake about 10-15 times aweek.
    I also had the front end aligned to DJ's specs and that helped alot.
    So now I have a small pulsating under light braking it feels like the anti-skid system is working overtime,very quick pulses,not a heavy vibration but still enough to notice. Like the anti skid is cycling way to senistively, I believe the next move will be a poportion valve adjustment, that will be the last thing in the system to mess with.
    But the other posters are right you have work on the cause not just the fix.
    Kevin
    kbl41001

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    I had the brake TSB done to my truck and it does seem to help with stopping ability, but make sure who ever does your work does not use an air impact wrench to tighten your lugs or you will have warpage again. 86 foot lbs by torque wrench is the correct the way to install lugs. Use this as your guide you should not have any more problems.

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    Default Brake Fix Recommendations

    Here's another thread that goes into a little more detail. http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...front-end-new/

    (buellfire beat me to the punch on this)
    Another thing to consider is that lug nuts on your front wheels MUST NOT be over torqued. Doing so can warp your rotors giving you the "brake shakes" again. Some places, to include your friendly Toyota dealership, might use an impact wrench to tighten the lugs with no regard to the torque specs. This will surely undo the installation of new rotors. I handle this by checking the lugs on my truck with my own torque wrench.

    You must also use the parking brake as Kevin said. It is the only way to get the automatic adjustment function to work in the rear brakes.


    Paul
    Completed Mods:
    S&S long tube headers
    Brembo rotors
    TSB caliper upgrade
    Hawk LTS brake pads
    Stainless steel braided brake lines
    Total Chaos steering rack bushings
    Alignment to DJ's specs
    Century cap
    Line-X
    XM satellite radio module (connected to Pioneer head unit)
    Instrument cluster LED upgrade

    Future Mods:
    Rearview camera system
    BA Muffler (on order)
    Sound deadener
    Fusion Drive
    Flux Capacitor Control Unit (FCCU)

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    Default thanks for the advice

    Thanks to everyone for the advice. I am developing a game plan to attack this now and will come back with my progress.

    Cowbell

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    not a fix for your problem, but for prevention and performance, it's hard to beat the five minutes it takes to adjust your proportioning valve above the rear axle. using the emergency brake is also essential to getting the rears to do their jobs, but the LSP and BV (yes, it's actually called a Load Sensing Proportioning and Bypass Valve) has to be open enough to get the brake line pressure to your rear wheels under the load you normally drive around with.

    ditto, torquing the lug nuts correctly is important but it's not the only issue in vibration problems. here's an interesting article on break pads and rotors i found very informative: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

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    Default Re: Brake Problems

    Unfortunately, if this problem returns after the calipers are upgraded to the WL or WG casting, the only remaining solution is to have the rotors turned on the car using an on-the-car lathe. It is not adequate to turn the rotor using any other alternative. When I replaced my calipers with the WG alternative (this was the latest production), I also replaced the rear drums and shoes as well as putting on new rotors and pads. The problem was still present and I verified that it was coming from the front brakes. Evidently turning the rotors with an on-the-car lathe is the only alternative for a Tundra that continues to exhibit the pulsating symptoms after all this work is done. I had hoped the new caliper design would correct the problem but my vehicle appears to be one of the sensitive ones that cannot tolerate a disc rotor runout of more than 0.0012 inches. This is a very close or tight tolerance limit as established by Toyota and is probably the major reason the problem returns for many Tundras. It does not take much to throw a disc out beyond 0.0012 inches and even my new rotors evidently didn't meet this specification when they were put on the vehicle. Lucky me!

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    Default Re: Brake Problems

    Holy fawkin' thread revival.
    Remmy700P and Rrumbler like this.
    2005 Tundra DC Limited 4wd - Phantom Gray Pearl



    Search for your answer.
    http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/106548-how-to-search-this-forum/

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    Default Re: Brake Problems

    First you did most of the things required to stop this problem.
    Question one how old or many miles on the rotors you have installed now also how many times have you turned
    them.
    Do you used your e brake at all or just sometimes.

    What I did to get rid of this problem it replaced my rotors.then another member
    That is a mechanic mentioned to about a old SB on the Star adjuster gor the rear brakes
    So this is what he told me to do and it worked adjust your rear brakes makes repairs to the front rotors.
    Now it that work is done correctly brakes should not plusate. So if you can not get the brake adjuster replaced you
    can do this simple fix at stop lights set and release your e brake this will keep your rear brakes correctly adjusted as this the real problem as long as both brakes are working the fronts will not over heat and warp.
    It works I had over 75 k onmy pads when I sold that truck with no issues.
    Simple but true.
    Kevin
    kbl41001

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    Default Re: Brake Problems

    If your abs is kicking on for no obvious reason then you might have a bad wheel sensor.
    RIP 2006 Tundra DC with: Eclipse AVN5500 Navigation System, Kicker IX500.4 driving infinity kappa 60.9cs door speakers, Kenwood KAC-X20 driving an infinity kappa 100.9w sub in sound ordnance bass bunker, UWS Black Deep Toolbox, Nasta SS Nerf Bars, Rugged Liner Bed Liner, AVS chrome bug shield, EGR in channel vent visors, Ballistic Enigma 20x9 wheels & Nitto nt420 285/50R20 tires, Hellwig 7697 & 7700 sway bars, Stinger SPP2150 Battery, Big 3 wire upgrade with 1/0 Raptor, Rancho RS5000 struts/shocks, Dynomax VT 17956 muffler, EBC Slotted Sport Rotors & Yellowstuff Kevlar pads, Russell SS brake lines, Cheetah GPS Mirror

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