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1Gen-TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2000 to 2006 Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "Rusted Frame Problems?", within the 1Gen-Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
My '01 Tundra has light rust on the frame, diiferential, cross members, and inside of rear bumper. I tried Rustoleum heavy rust (brown color) primer and flat black topcoat applied last spring-time. It did not last through the past winter, as rust is creeping back along weld seams and all over the frame chassis. So I thought I'd try POR-15 this time, it should last permanently is what the POR-15 website claims. I hope I don't have to apply POR-15 more than once, and then maybe touch up a little rust here and there, to make the Tundra last another 150,000 miles, to reach 300k miles.
I bought a mixed package deal off the POR-15 website, three 4oz. cans each of POR-15 Rust Prevention, and three of the Chassis Coat Black topcoat. http://www.por15.com/bMix-Pack-POR-15-Chassiscoat-b
__________________ 2001 Toyota Tundra 4x4 SR5 reg. cab, V-8 auto. imperial jade green with matching Astro-cap w/overhead racks Hellwig rear ASB, Wheeler's poly ASB bushings, H&R 2" leveling progressive coils, Bilstein HD yellow/blue shocks, Husky liners, drop-in Toyota bed liner, TRD Dual Side exhaust, StubbsWelding rocksliders, red 48" Hi-Lift Jack, U-Haul hitch, receiver shackle, SkidRow front/trans/t-case skidplates, POR 15 and ChassisCoat Black frame restoration, 265/75QR16 Bridgestone Winter Dueler DM-Z2 on M/T Classic II wheels 2006 Toyota Tacoma reg. cab, 4 cyl. auto. silver streak mica withmatching LED Astro-cap, Toyota rubber mat, SuperSprings
both trucks equipped with LED amber mini light bars for safety
__________________ 2001 Toyota Tundra 4x4 SR5 reg. cab, V-8 auto. imperial jade green with matching Astro-cap w/overhead racks Hellwig rear ASB, Wheeler's poly ASB bushings, H&R 2" leveling progressive coils, Bilstein HD yellow/blue shocks, Husky liners, drop-in Toyota bed liner, TRD Dual Side exhaust, StubbsWelding rocksliders, red 48" Hi-Lift Jack, U-Haul hitch, receiver shackle, SkidRow front/trans/t-case skidplates, POR 15 and ChassisCoat Black frame restoration, 265/75QR16 Bridgestone Winter Dueler DM-Z2 on M/T Classic II wheels 2006 Toyota Tacoma reg. cab, 4 cyl. auto. silver streak mica withmatching LED Astro-cap, Toyota rubber mat, SuperSprings
both trucks equipped with LED amber mini light bars for safety
I saw the same stuff, and it's supposed to out perform Por15, is less expensive and supposedly doesn't require the same prep work. Anyone have any experience with it?
Here are a couple of pics from my underside (the Tundra that is )
The rust you see is the effects of 5+ years of Maine winters. The axle housing has some pretty ugly rust-flowering (rust under paint).
Sheetmetal is clean of corrosion though (ignore the mud blobs). Hopefully it stays that way.
Gotta say that actually isn't bad at all for up here. I'm on the seacoast of NH.
I have quite a bit of surface rust under my 2006 tundra I just bought. I took a steel brush to the rear axle, drive shaft and frame with WD40 and it cleaned up ok. POR looks good to me but I have heard that will act like loctite if you put it into the wrong places. Is there anything out there that I can undercoat with that I can use all over and it will look better afterwards.
I bought a mixed package deal off the POR-15 website, three 4oz. cans each of POR-15 Rust Prevention, and three of the Chassis Coat Black topcoat. Mix Pack - POR-15 & Chassiscoat
Thanks for the link! I just bought the same kit. It appears my frame is alright, but my rear transmission housing looks miserable.
I just power wash the frame every spring and use up a couple of cans of undercoating to "touch up" the spots. You can not stop rust, just slow it down.
I agree. By just hitting the self cleaning car wash and spending $2.00 at a minimum, you can power wash the undercarriage and prevent further rusting. Most rust will then just occur between the time salt hits it and when you get to the car wash. I usually wait until the roads are plowed down to the pavement, so as to minimize any further salt kick up onto the frame. I'm now at 90K and my rusting is minimal; just surface rust on the front of the rear axle, places where the wheels kick up the salt, and around bolt holes and frame junctions. I also stay away from plowing through snow in snowstorms like I used to in my T100, its a lot of fun, but you'll get more rust that way.
I have 75K with very little rust, I do have a house with a blacktop driveway, so I invested a $100 for a small electric power washer and even in the winter I can wash underneath as long as it is above freezing.
By the way folk in the winter if it does not stay above freezing for at least 8 hr after you wash your truck don't bother, the water freezes and it can cause damage. Actually it is worst to wash it then not.
I am also from New England (Southern New Hampshire) and have serious frame rot. It has rotted through and has been confirmed by the dealer, a body shop, and a frame welding firm. I have a 2000 with 83,000 miles. It has always been serviced by the dealer. They did not alert me to the problem even though it was just in for an oil change. A body shop pointed it out to me while doing a repair for a minor fender bender. I've lived in the area for 40+ years driving all makes of cars and trucks and have never had a problem like this before. This is unacceptable. Has anyone gotten Toyota to help in any way with repairs or replacement?
I have more rust than I would like on my 2000 with 56K miles now. Looks like I'm going to have to do this now since it's just starting to get bad. So the POR-15 is the best stuff huh. And I was just going to get a few cans of undercoat from the parts store.
I have the same problem. From the rear doors back, the frame has a fair amount of rust. I've started spraying it with oil.
This is not isolated to Toyota. A local frame shop have seen some 2002 Ford products as well. I guess the cheaper foreign steel is not such a bargin after all.
Re: Rusted Frame Problems?
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