I'm in trouble, changed my brother's Tundra to Sync Mobil 1 - Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forum

usa4sure · #1 (**permalink**) 08-06-2006, 11:22 PM

I just chagned my brother's '04 Tundras to Full Sync Mobil 1.

After about a 2-3 week's worth of driving. The red oil light kept coming on whenever he corners or brakes. We added a quart to top it off, measured with the dipstick.

Couple of days went by then it happened again. This time we drained it and pour what's left into the original Mobil bottles. To my shock & surprise, he was driving around w/only 2.5 quarts leftover.

Question.....How anyone have this same experience when switching over to Full Sync Mobil 1 oil that it starts to leak.

We looked under the engine and oil nut is tight & snug w/one oil leakage and so is the Toyota Oil Filter. We did see oil leak other engine housing. Not sure what it's called though.

Any suggestions on the remedy? Is this a gasket leak?

Shite2k · #2 (**permalink**) 08-06-2006, 11:40 PM

Can you re-type your post in english? The last few sentences are a bit tough to understand and are actually crucial to us understanding and offering suggestions as to what might be wrong.

usa4sure · #3 (**permalink**) 08-06-2006, 11:46 PM

Oops....sorry for the fuzziness.

My brother and I thought it was a loose oil nut or loose oil filter.
Check them both and didn't see any leakage from them. (both snug & tight)

We did see oil coming from other engine housing (don't know what to call it)

I can't really tell if it's the Mobil 1 oil that's causing the leakage.

Hope this is more clear , thx in advance.

redman733 · #4 (**permalink**) 08-07-2006, 08:34 AM

If you leaked 4 1/2 quarts of oil in 2-3 weeks thats alot of oil...
One problem i've seen with oil leaking after a change is this,make sure the rubber seal on the oil filter you took off came off with the filter?I've seen them stick to the motor then people put the new filter over the old seal and that causes a leak(worth looking at if it did start leaking right after a change)

cupidstoy · #5 (**permalink**) 08-07-2006, 09:47 AM

if it's leaking that much there should be a lot of oil on the ground or streaking the underside of the truck in an obvious way. if it's burning that much, it would pretty much be a constant stream of black smoke coming out of the tail pipe.

how much did you put in? (6.5 to 7 quarts is normal) and where could it have gone? it's either leaking or burning, both with obvious signs.

dsrtrcr01 · #6 (**permalink**) 08-07-2006, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cupidstoy

if it's burning that much, it would pretty much be a constant stream of black smoke coming out of the tail pipe.

how much did you put in? (6.5 to 7 quarts is normal) and where could it have gone? it's either leaking or burning, both with obvious signs.

Just an FYI- Burning engine oil is a Whitish blue color smoke. White with a blue hue to it. Black is to much fuel. White is usually condinsation and should go away after a little bit. If it doesn't it possibly could be burning your coolant so a blown Headgasket or something else.

rlehan · #7 (**permalink**) 08-07-2006, 12:16 PM

I have been running Mobil1 for over 25,000 miles with no trouble. I don't know what could be causing your symptoms.

Rick

low c1500 · #8 (**permalink**) 08-07-2006, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by usa4sure

I just chagned my brother's '04 Tundras to Full Sync Mobil 1.

After about a 2-3 week's worth of driving. The red oil light kept coming on whenever he corners or brakes. We added a quart to top it off, measured with the dipstick.

Couple of days went by then it happened again. This time we drained it and pour what's left into the original Mobil bottles. To my shock & surprise, he was driving around w/only 2.5 quarts leftover.

Question.....How anyone have this same experience when switching over to Full Sync Mobil 1 oil that it starts to leak.

We looked under the engine and oil nut is tight & snug w/one oil leakage and so is the Toyota Oil Filter. We did see oil leak other engine housing. Not sure what it's called though.

Any suggestions on the remedy? Is this a gasket leak?

Not to be too negative......but maybe you should let the shops change your oil. Its a simple job, but it can still be messed up.

How much oil did you originally put in the motor?? Is the oil cap on tight? This can cause minor oil evaporation.

mitchinphx · #9 (**permalink**) 08-07-2006, 01:18 PM

just an FYI: If you change over to full synthetic in a higher mileage engine it is not uncommon to leak the full synthetic at older gaskets and whatnot. full synthetic can leak through the most miniscule spots that dyno is too thick/unrefined to leak through. may be what you're seeing at "the other engine housing".

this probably isn't your main problem tho given the amount of oil missing in this scenario.

Is it at all possible you've made the common DIY oil change mistake of forgetting to replace the drain plug prior to filling? i'd love to say i've never done that but.... **** happens.

tempetom · #10 (**permalink**) 08-07-2006, 01:34 PM

I like Redman's theory about the o-ring sticking to the mounting surface. I've heard of that happening. I wonder if that's why they recommend putting a little oil around the o-ring before installing it?
Maybe the oil would only squirt out at higher temp and it hits the infamous "other housing".

AFP520 · #11 (**permalink**) 08-07-2006, 02:17 PM

synthetic oil is not causing your problem... I run amsoil w/ amsoil filter and no leaks...

you are losing oil somewhere else... the engine does consume oil after a period of time, but not the amounts that you have lost

i'd use the advice of what others have said on here about the gasket on the oil filter.. make sure your dipstick is in, oil cap, drain plug, oil filter are all snug...

if all else fails, take it to the dealer like everyone else does

Ando140 · #12 (**permalink**) 08-07-2006, 03:37 PM

To me, it sounds like its way too much of a coincidence that it happened after an oil change. Synthetic shouldn't make that much of a difference when it comes to oil consumption/leaks. There must be something you're missing... like checking to make sure the seal from the old oil filter didn't stick on there, as was mentioned earlier... or checking to make sure the washer is on the drain plug. There's no way its consuming that much, unless there is some serious engine damage (warped cylinder heads?). My family has had mostly toyotas for as long as I can remember and I don't remember any of them consuming any noticable amount of oil unless there was engine damage... I had a tacoma with over 140K miles on it that didn't consume any noticable amount of oil and my tundra with over 80K miles doesn't consume any noticable amount.
Good Luck, hopefully its something as simple as the filter seal or the washer around the drain plug.

plugnickel · #13 (**permalink**) 08-07-2006, 06:19 PM

You might want to check out/replace your pvc valve. I have seen this many times, where the oil is burned by a leaking pvc valve.

usa4sure · #14 (**permalink**) 08-07-2006, 07:28 PM

Thankyou gentleman for your great input. I've been changing oil since high school using regular dino juice without any problems on my prior 8 cars and trucks. Domestics & Imports.

For some reason I had the same problem when I had my '96 Nissan Maxima.
The VQ series engine is one of the best, but for some reason when I made the switch to Full Syn Mobil 1 oil it just fails.

I was hesitant to make the change on my brother's '04 Tundra due to past experience, but heard so much great comments about Full Syn Mobil1.
I made the switch in the Maxima at 10k miles to make sure the gasket is seated correctly.

This time I told my brother to make sure there are more miles on his '04 Tundra just to be on the safe side cause mine failed at 10k w/the Maxima.

Anyways, there wasn't any smoke, drives like normal, only visual was the red oil light coming on when cornering or braking. Inspection of the under side showed oil spatter on frame and pipes.

Only was drained to find out how much was actually in there. 2.5 quarts left.
Filled again to 6quarts Mobil1 again. This time we cranked it up backed it out of garage and checked ....... nothing. We decided to park the Truck overnight in the garage to see if there's any leakage.

Next morning had 2-3 dots on the garage floor. That's it. He's afraid to drive it now to prevent any further damage if any.

Yes I did purchased a new oil filter from the dealer and NO there wasn't any old rubber seal stuck to where you screw in the oil filter.

I also purchased the new washer and tightend it sungly to the oil nut.
No leakage from either the nut nor the oil filter. I stuck to finger in the new oil and run it around the new oil seal as taught back in High School.

I'm really leaning towards what MITCHINPHX said,..........

"just an FYI: If you change over to full synthetic in a higher mileage engine it is not uncommon to leak the full synthetic at older gaskets and whatnot. full synthetic can leak through the most miniscule spots that dyno is too thick/unrefined to leak through. may be what you're seeing at "the other engine housing". "

I want to take care of my engine but after what took place, I'm very reluctant to switch to Mobil 1 anymore. My truck only has 12,475 miles on it.

mitchinphx · #15 (**permalink**) 08-07-2006, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by usa4sure

I'm really leaning towards what MITCHINPHX said,..........

"just an FYI: If you change over to full synthetic in a higher mileage engine it is not uncommon to leak the full synthetic at older gaskets and whatnot. full synthetic can leak through the most miniscule spots that dyno is too thick/unrefined to leak through. may be what you're seeing at "the other engine housing".

i wasn't applying that to the massive amount you lost tho. just where you're seeing the small leak. if that was where you lost all 4 quarts or so, you'd see oil all over the place.

question (not to imply you're dumb or anything) - are you checking the oil level at the dipstick when the engine is hot or cold? if when hot, then yes, the level will appear low, or, the stick will be totally covered. just depends on the car. be sure to check it when cold for an accurate level reading.