Tundra Rotor Replacement

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Thread: Tundra Rotor Replacement

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    Default Tundra Rotor Replacement

    Sorry for an additional post on "brakes." I am a novice mechanic and have searched the site to get a simple question answered but have not found it. I want to replace my rotors and pads. In order to remove the rotors I know that I will have to remove the calipers. Do I have to remove the brake lines in order to move the calipers to a position so I can get the rotors off? The brake line is metal from the caliper to a "bracket" - then it is a rubber line. Will I bend or kink the metal if I don't remove the line?

    Thanks for your help.

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    Junior Member Gort11's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tundra Rotor Replacement

    NO, get a piece of coat hanger or wire and just tie them up, do not let hang by the brake hose.
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    Default Re: Tundra Rotor Replacement

    also, while loose, inspect for any damage to line - kinks, leaks, dry rot, etc.

    if you don't break any of the line connections, you won't have to bleed a lot of air out of the lines, although i would suggest a bleed once everything is back together. in fact it is recommended to completely change out brake fluid every few years. it get's dirty from little particles of rubber and attracts moisture. this would be a good time to take care of it.

    be sure to inspect the calipers while they are loose for any signs of leakage and lube the moving parts with caliper grease (probably provided in a small tube with the new pads). also, be sure to get them torqued down properly when reinstalling.

    while you have the rotor off, check the wheel bearing assembly and on a 2000 model year, i would definitely repack the bearings while you have everything apart.

    if you have a hard time remembering how the shims go and what direction the pads go, do one wheel at a time so you can look at the other wheel to see how it goes back together.
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    Default Re: Tundra Rotor Replacement

    I replaced my brakes and rotors about ten days ago. It was not that hard at all. One thing suggested above, which I did not do or even think about, was repack the bearings.

    I have never done brake work before, and followed the Haynes manual. I either misread the deal or it is overly cautious but I took off the calipers instead of hanging them by a coat hanger. It actually seemed a little easier with the pressure relieved but I did have to bleed the front brakes once done.

    To bleed the brakes, I got a 2' section of plastic tubing at the parts store and attached one end to the bleed valve and the other in a clean gatorade bottle about half full of fresh brake fluid. I topped off the master cylinder and had my wife pump the brakes while I kept an eye on both to make sure the mc did not get too empty and watched until the tubing until it came through without any air. Be sure and start with the passenger side brake first as it is farther from the mc.

    I purchased Wagner Quiet Stop ceramic brakes, Raybestos rotors, and brake fluid for a total cost of about $200 for everything.

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